5750-471?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Wahpeton ND
5750-471?
I got a set of 5750-471 heads off a 1960 F500 truck. What is the max that can be safley shaved while still alowing the heads to be resurfaced if neccesary? The PO told me that his dad had the heads done in the early 80s. Is there a simple point where a guy can mic them to check for previous machining? I am almost certain that the heads were simply rebuilt in the 80s as it was a working grain truck till being parked in 96.
I would like to get the CCs down as this set of heads has the big valves and think that a good cut should shave alot of CCS off of this. Any idea on what my gains would be?
I just bought a house so my rodding budget is drum tight nowdays.
I would like to get the CCs down as this set of heads has the big valves and think that a good cut should shave alot of CCS off of this. Any idea on what my gains would be?
I just bought a house so my rodding budget is drum tight nowdays.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
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From: Southern Oregon
The 471's are 82 cc vs. the C1TE of 76cc. Theoretically to get to the same chamber size as the small valve heads, what you have would need to be milled approx. .035. Keep in mind that valves are likely sunken, adding to the original combustion chamber size. Correction of sunken valves can be done with hardened seats on intake and exhaust. New valves also help a little to correct sunken valves. To take the heads down more than .035 will probably require the intake flange be milled for the intake to be able to fit.
There is a little trick that can shave 1.6 cc from the combustion chamber of any big valve head. Federal Mogul NOS 1.92 intakes have a flat face, as compared to the OEM dished valve. The OEM dish has a volume very close to 1.6 cc. Stainless valves sold by John Mummert have a dish volume of approx. .7cc.
The 471 head is desired by guys who want to use power adders. They can take a good boost, amd have a market in places like y's forever.
There is a little trick that can shave 1.6 cc from the combustion chamber of any big valve head. Federal Mogul NOS 1.92 intakes have a flat face, as compared to the OEM dished valve. The OEM dish has a volume very close to 1.6 cc. Stainless valves sold by John Mummert have a dish volume of approx. .7cc.
The 471 head is desired by guys who want to use power adders. They can take a good boost, amd have a market in places like y's forever.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 2
From: Wahpeton ND
With that much work it seems that it would be best to wait untill I can afford some popup pistons from murmmet. Then with a good head job I should be looking a a corrected volume of about 70-72 CCs and an 8.8-9.0 CR which is what I want.
I checked at Y blocks forever and seen that they are a substitute blower head with flow like the G's. Just they have no CR in a naturaly aspirated engine.
I checked at Y blocks forever and seen that they are a substitute blower head with flow like the G's. Just they have no CR in a naturaly aspirated engine.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 4
From: Southern Oregon
With that much work it seems that it would be best to wait untill I can afford some popup pistons from murmmet. Then with a good head job I should be looking a a corrected volume of about 70-72 CCs and an 8.8-9.0 CR which is what I want.
I checked at Y blocks forever and seen that they are a substitute blower head with flow like the G's. Just they have no CR in a naturaly aspirated engine.
I checked at Y blocks forever and seen that they are a substitute blower head with flow like the G's. Just they have no CR in a naturaly aspirated engine.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 2
From: Wahpeton ND
I think I may have asked this previously and simply forgot the reasoning. They say they flow well so someday after my trucks body is mint I will do the engine.
Push come to shove it needs a good gasket job. She kinda weeps out of every seal slightly. Not to the point of doing harm. Just enough to make for a dirty engine. Parked for the winter at the inlaws but maby a long weekend next summer.
I finaly got a garage to work in but I am so terribly broke! The misery of youth.
Push come to shove it needs a good gasket job. She kinda weeps out of every seal slightly. Not to the point of doing harm. Just enough to make for a dirty engine. Parked for the winter at the inlaws but maby a long weekend next summer.
I finaly got a garage to work in but I am so terribly broke! The misery of youth.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 4
From: Southern Oregon
I forgot to say congratulations on your house! Yes the 471 heads are reported by those who really know, to flow as well as G or 113. Actually maybe better than G due to less shrouding of the intake.
Hope your garage is heated. Wish my barn had heat!
Hope your garage is heated. Wish my barn had heat!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Wahpeton ND
Insulated pretty good. I got some space heaters I run for now that keep it above freezing.
I need to get a GFA job in there to get some real heat. Still it beats working in a driveway by far.
I need to get a GFA job in there to get some real heat. Still it beats working in a driveway by far.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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I think your best course of action is to take the 292 .060 over, with some Gs and 0 deck. That will put you just over 8.8:1. You should be able to sell the 471s to get most, if not all the cash you'll need for a set of Gs. Due to shipping, if the price is right, I might be interested
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Wahpeton ND
If you got a set of good Gs or 113s you would be willing to swap I will trade.
Like I said earlier my rodding budget is a bit pinched now so I was just thinking. I am kinda worried about a set of used Gs or 113s as They may have already been milled to the gills buying them used and all.
I want somthing that would have some service life left in it.
Like I said earlier my rodding budget is a bit pinched now so I was just thinking. I am kinda worried about a set of used Gs or 113s as They may have already been milled to the gills buying them used and all.
I want somthing that would have some service life left in it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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I don't have Gs or 113s I want to let go.
There are 4 "blocks" along the exhaust side of the heads. If the heads have never been milled, these blocks will be very close to 1" Check that before purchasing the heads and you will be good.
G's or 113s really will be the budget way to go. You'll have to do all the same things to them, minus the heavy milling, minus correcting the intake flange after the heavy milling, and minus domed pistons (if you want any compression benefit). That's $2-300, maybe more (the cost of higher compression heads) right there for milling, and pistons, unless of course you can do the milling yourself and already have the pistons laying around.
There are 4 "blocks" along the exhaust side of the heads. If the heads have never been milled, these blocks will be very close to 1" Check that before purchasing the heads and you will be good.
G's or 113s really will be the budget way to go. You'll have to do all the same things to them, minus the heavy milling, minus correcting the intake flange after the heavy milling, and minus domed pistons (if you want any compression benefit). That's $2-300, maybe more (the cost of higher compression heads) right there for milling, and pistons, unless of course you can do the milling yourself and already have the pistons laying around.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Southern Oregon
Trying to find good '57 or earlier heads can be a challenge. Maybe my bad luck was due to non posted heads. There were two cracked G's, one G with a half broken rocker arm boss, two cracked ECR-A, one or two cracked C's, and a 113 with broken exhaust manifold bolt that proved impossible to extract. When "good" G or 113 is found, invariably they cc well above advertised even with past milling having been performed, requiring lots of corrective action. It is also common to come across heads that have deep pitting due to water having been in the chambers for years.
Before I found a deal on a cc'ing kit, I did the job with about $5 worth of equipment. One square 1/4 in. piece of glass, a 60 cc syringe from the farm store, and a 20 or 30 cc syringe. The head is positioned level end to end and very slightly elevated crossways. The glass is laid to allow a very minimum reveal on the upper side of the chamber, to allow injection of alcohol or atf via syringe. Seal glass to clean head surface with light coat of grease or 80/90. The technique gave repeatable results, and was within 1/2 cc accuracy.
Before I found a deal on a cc'ing kit, I did the job with about $5 worth of equipment. One square 1/4 in. piece of glass, a 60 cc syringe from the farm store, and a 20 or 30 cc syringe. The head is positioned level end to end and very slightly elevated crossways. The glass is laid to allow a very minimum reveal on the upper side of the chamber, to allow injection of alcohol or atf via syringe. Seal glass to clean head surface with light coat of grease or 80/90. The technique gave repeatable results, and was within 1/2 cc accuracy.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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When you're purchasing a set of heads be clear with the seller what you are looking for. If they are to be shipped, I request that they are cleaned and checked for cracks before shipping. If the seller is not willing to do that, there is no deal. Using that technique, I got a hold of an excellent condition set of G's, non posted, which are now on the engine.
If you're just pulling them at salvage yards, it's a whole different story, but you don't usually have to pay for them if you spot something that is wrong and you don't have a good chunk of change tied up in shipping a paper weight.
If you're just pulling them at salvage yards, it's a whole different story, but you don't usually have to pay for them if you spot something that is wrong and you don't have a good chunk of change tied up in shipping a paper weight.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Wahpeton ND
Finding any Y parts at a salvage yard around here is rare. Most dont even have parts for my wifes 89 mustang.
I will wait before I make a move. Im mainly looking for a higher CR and big valves for milage without loss of power. That and my C1TE heads have very low compression to the point of fouling plugs.
I will wait before I make a move. Im mainly looking for a higher CR and big valves for milage without loss of power. That and my C1TE heads have very low compression to the point of fouling plugs.
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