57 312Y block intake manifold

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Old 12-17-2010, 12:34 AM
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57 312Y block intake manifold

I've been having some vacuum leaks from the intake manifold to heads gaskets, and I went to change them--which I've done in other motors and such and I've never had a problem before. And I follow the usual procedures regarding surface prep etc. But the problem with my motor--and I've only had a couple years, i bought it already installed in my 48F1, is that after removal of the intake/head manifold gaskets there's some kind of funny alignment issue--Or so it seems to me. Because with no gaskets in place the bolt holes of the intake manifold and the heads align pretty good!! that's weird? They should be a little out of alignment with no gasket in place and then the gasket will fill in the missing piece so to speak and all will align well for threading in those 7/16 bolts. But that's not it. In order to get the bolts in I've had to make paper thin gaskets, because the other two thickness sizes--including OEM old stock Ford stuff are too thick and bring about so much misalignment of the bolt holes that I can't get the manifold fastened down. Anyone ever have this experience? Has there been some machining somewhere? Or do i have the wrong intake or heads? The intake says EOZ-8425-B--not sure that's a part #, but I see that on the manifold to the rear of motor. Its a 4barrel manifold and I'm using an adapter to a two barrel etc/and no leakage of air at that point-tests out fine. Maybe the wrong heads? or?

Appreciate any help.

Tom
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:47 AM
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Didn't we do this once a while back Tom? Nothing we suggested then worked eh? Still sounds to me like the heads have been milled. And now the intake needs milled to match it.

Why the gaskets that where on there when ya got the truck worked I can only guess. It may be why they went bad and had to be replaced.

I don't remember if I mentioned before But. I remember once having this problem. I took the heads off and put new gaskets under them and on the intake. Started all the head and intake bolts and then tightened them down together as a unit.

It did not last long before the intake gaskets went out again. Finely I milled a few thousand's off the intake and all was good.
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:16 AM
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Nothing personal, but I was hoping to get some new ideas haha. I know what you've said thanks. But nothing helped. Was looking for some new ideas. And I thought maybe there were other people here?

I've had it running but the super thin gaskets are not working as good as I'd like. So I'm hoping for some fresh ideas.

Thanks Tom
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:18 AM
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Before I posted this question in the general 48++ years trucks etc. I thought maybe in just the Yblock motor section there would be something new to learn.
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:26 AM
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Think i'd load the truck onto a trailer.. take the whole thing down to your buddys at the local machine shop you trust..that way they can match machine the intake to the heads..seen this before and thats the best way.. rather then have them mill off a few thousands..you may need to change the angle on the intake to get an even spacing top to bottom of the intake to head gasket area
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:19 AM
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The heads and/or decks have been milled fairly heavily so you need to mill the intake or the intake flange of the heads to get the alignment back.

Which heads do you have? The ports of early heads will not match well with the ECZ-9425-B intake, especially with heavy milling on the decks and/or heads

Is your intake really fastened with 7/16" bolts?
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by charliemccraney
The heads and/or decks have been milled fairly heavily so you need to mill the intake or the intake flange of the heads to get the alignment back.

Which heads do you have? The ports of early heads will not match well with the ECZ-9425-B intake, especially with heavy milling on the decks and/or heads

Is your intake really fastened with 7/16" bolts?
Funny! No It was late when I made the post. Late for me. I meant to say 5/16 haha. Ya that would be some super connector uh? That would be the problem right there.

Ya doing some milling of the intake is what I was thinking too. I just wasn't sure how to go about it. I wasn't sure how to accomplish without some random guess work etc. I know a good machine shop where they build engines and do block surfacing etc. Haven't been there in years. Think I'll drive the truck over and see what he says. I may even get an aftermarket aluminum intake if that makes all easier. I'm open to thinking about it.

Thanks to all for the comments.
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:29 AM
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Plus I didn't realize there were early and or different heads, but I was thinking this might also add to the mismatch issue because the motor's history is unknown to me. I'll check the numbers and get back to ya.

Tom
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:39 AM
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At the front of the heads, on the exhaust side, there should be a squarish pad that you can get to. clean it really well, removing paint and grime. Dont sand. Then measure its thickness with a micrometer. With no milling it would be approx. 1.00 in. If heads were milled say .010, the pad would measure .990.
Significant milling combined with use of steel head gaskets may require milling intake flange. Flange is theoretically taken down 1.4 times the amount milled from head (if steel head gasket). If composite head gasket is used, heads can be milled .020 and everything is going to be roughly in stock alignment, as the gaskets are that much more thick than original steels.

So say heads were milled .035, a thicker composite head gasket is in place, and block was decked .020. You have a net loss of .035 in height. 1.4 times .035 is the theoretical amount taken from flange. I have done this, and would suggest only taking .035 off, not 1.4 times .035.

Only one out of a 100 machine shops are aware of the square pads on the side of the heads, and their use for detecting previous milling. Most all shops simply look at the head surface and make an educated guess as to amount of previous work. Usually assessed as a little milling or a lot.
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 46yblock
At the front of the heads, on the exhaust side, there should be a squarish pad that you can get to. clean it really well, removing paint and grime. Dont sand. Then measure its thickness with a micrometer. With no milling it would be approx. 1.00 in. If heads were milled say .010, the pad would measure .990.
Significant milling combined with use of steel head gaskets may require milling intake flange. Flange is theoretically taken down 1.4 times the amount milled from head (if steel head gasket). If composite head gasket is used, heads can be milled .020 and everything is going to be roughly in stock alignment, as the gaskets are that much more thick than original steels.

So say heads were milled .035, a thicker composite head gasket is in place, and block was decked .020. You have a net loss of .035 in height. 1.4 times .035 is the theoretical amount taken from flange. I have done this, and would suggest only taking .035 off, not 1.4 times .035.
Thanks. That's a lot of good info. I understand what your saying. I'll check that out.
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 46yblock
At the front of the heads, on the exhaust side, there should be a squarish pad that you can get to. clean it really well, removing paint and grime. Dont sand. Then measure its thickness with a micrometer. With no milling it would be approx. 1.00 in. If heads were milled say .010, the pad would measure .990.
Significant milling combined with use of steel head gaskets may require milling intake flange. Flange is theoretically taken down 1.4 times the amount milled from head (if steel head gasket). If composite head gasket is used, heads can be milled .020 and everything is going to be roughly in stock alignment, as the gaskets are that much more thick than original steels.

So say heads were milled .035, a thicker composite head gasket is in place, and block was decked .020. You have a net loss of .035 in height. 1.4 times .035 is the theoretical amount taken from flange. I have done this, and would suggest only taking .035 off, not 1.4 times .035.

Only one out of a 100 machine shops are aware of the square pads on the side of the heads, and their use for detecting previous milling. Most all shops simply look at the head surface and make an educated guess as to amount of previous work. Usually assessed as a little milling or a lot.
I just went out and measured the square tab on the drivers side and the motor is assembled and in the truck, but I feel I got hold of all pretty good for an accurate number. And I get .900 inch if I'm following all correctly.
And I was trying to get the part numbers on the heads but I can't find a number as it is -- all assembled in the truck. Would the head numbers be hidden under exhaust or back of motor etc?

And since .900 is a long ways from 1.00inch, maybe I'm not doing it right?
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:26 PM
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Check here for location and #'s... Y
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead
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Thanks. The pics are great.
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:30 PM
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I just got an email from the previous owner. We stay in touch. He lives just up the valley from me. I know from previous discussions that he built the motor when he was a young guy taken auto classes through the local JC. He's a pro mechanic now and he says that yes he milled the head for more compression and could have or should have milled the intake but didn't. He thought I might get by without--same as he did. It was just money for him--being a young student and all. I can understand that. So I'll have to figure how to measure all and get the intake milled too. I guess. At least that's my thinking at the moment.
 
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:50 PM
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Hope ya get it Tom, Good luck
 


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