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I looked at NAPA for a '52, no luck, but NumberDummy's post said it was about the same for other vehicles. One for a '67 Mustang looks pretty darn close. Then again, I don't know what a 215's looks like:
You should go to the Napa in Morgan Hill....sometime when you're in that neck of the woods. Most of the parts guys there (namely Hector) are pretty seasoned and they're used to dealing with the farmers in town who have old equipment. A primary wire should be pretty easy.
Thanks, Ross. Found it. It's ECH LW40 - $12.99. They guy was quoting me an ECH LW 32 - $1.99, which is the ground wire (likely). Have to special order either one.
By the looks of it, it's a simple wire. My buddy that took the distributor works at a fleet maintenance shop and has plenty of various wires and connectors. Just talked to him and he's going to make the wires that need replacing.
The only thing that makes the wire special is the grommet. I would imagine that you can find a grommet at the local hardware store that will work or you might be able to feed the new wire through the original grommet with a little bit of patience and some lube.
I have restored these wires a couple of times. As Bobby said, lube and patience and you can work the original lead out of the rubber. I replaced them with 16 guage MTW wire, had to grease up the new wire to pull back thru the rubber but makes it good as new when complete. Leave the wire extra long so you can route it exactly where you want it and then cut to size before you put on the connectors. Worked well for me.
A little update. My buddy brought over the distributor that he rebuilt for me on Sunday. We replaced the fouled plugs with new ones. With the front carbureter off, the truck started, but was running really rough. Not a lot of backfiring. Just a few small pops. Ran for a minute or so, then died. We heard a whining noise and thought that there's air coming or going somewhere.
We decided to put the second (front) carb on and the truck started again and ran, still a bit rough, but better than with one carb. No backfiring. Checked the new plugs and they had beginning signs of being fouled, but not bad.
The rotor had to be clocked between the #1 and #5 cylinders. Clocking it at TDC wouldn't start the truck. So, our last attempt at solving the problem will be checking the timing chain in two weeks when my buddy is able to help me again.
I'm thinking that the bad wires in the distributor, coupled with the dual carb set up, caused the backfiring, which then caused the timing chain to slip or stretch. That's my hypothesis for now. We'll know for sure if the timing chain is the culprit in a few weeks.
It did feel great, though, hearing the truck start and run no matter how rough.
Another update. My buddy was able to come over this evening and we removed the timing chain cover.
The steel sprockets appear to be in good condition. The chain, however, appears to be stretched as he was able to wiggle the slack back and forth. As it turns during high revolutions, it likely skips several teeth.
I already ordered a new timing chain and the timing cover gaskets from Mac's since no local sources show them in stock. It'll be another 1-2 weeks before my buddy is able to help me again.
I'm hoping that a new chain will help solve the issue.
It's nice to know that FMC made at least one of the sprockets.
That chain is not yet loose enough to jump a tooth, but it does have enough slack to allowing timing to vary some. Hope that all you are doing solves your problem once and for all.
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