Oil pressure switch socket / size
#1
#2
if its the same as a 5.0 i can tell you in a couple minutes, but all i did was was take the new switch to the hardware store a find the one that fits. make sure you have a extension as well. i got the old one off but couldn't get the new one on and didn't have the extension... i had fun walking to the store and back.
#3
Sadly i don't have a new switch the check from. I'm converting to a actually working gauge with a older for pressure sender and bypassing the resister so i only have the pressure sender on hand which is a totally different size, you can't even use a socket on it. I'm set with the socket extensions. Go $30 harbor freight socket set. If you could get the size that would be great. I'm trying to remember it might be 1 1/4 but that sounds WAY to big.
#6
#7
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#10
If your talking about the sender to covert to a actual gauge Then you'll need a sender from a older truck. I just picked a 1980 ford f150 351w and got the sender for the gauge and not the idiot lights. It is the fatter sender. I also got a 45 degree 1/4npt fitting. You need this to get the sender out of the way otherwise it wont screw into the block where the old one went. You also need to bypass a resister in the gauge cluster.
#13
Just What I Needed!
8 months ago my oil gauge started to bounce around and act erratically. About two months ago the gauge just stopped working, the needle pinned to the left. Because some other items that I neglected on my 1988 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat needed attention I finally decided to spend some time today to replace the oil pressure sensor. I found the one I had was super dirty and the connector was dirty too. I cleaned everything up - used CRC electronic cleaner, sandpaper inside the connector and was ready to remove the sensor. So now I couldn't find the right size socket to remove it, so I found this thread and located my 1 1/16 but it was not long enough. I called a friend at his shop to lend me his and reconnected the wire to the old sensor and fired up the truck. Big surprise! The oil gauge worked. It seems that the connector was just very dirty. I just thought I'd share the story because it may help some others save a few bucks.
I usually post on 1957-1960 forum, but I'll be here a bit more often - I just replaced the Y-pipe, O2 sensor and appears that I'm looking at replacing both sides of the exhaust manifold. While I'm at it I may attempt to figure out why my dual gas tanks don't work as they should.
Thanks all!
I usually post on 1957-1960 forum, but I'll be here a bit more often - I just replaced the Y-pipe, O2 sensor and appears that I'm looking at replacing both sides of the exhaust manifold. While I'm at it I may attempt to figure out why my dual gas tanks don't work as they should.
Thanks all!
#14
I just replaced the sending unit on my '95 F-150 (302). I have the socket if someone needs to use it. I'll sell/ship it to you for $10. You can pay it forward, if you like, or just keep it. I doubt I'll ever use it again.
For those of you that are using the older sending unit and jumping the resistor on the back of the gauge cluster, you can use an oil pressure sending unit extension from an early Mustang (64-73). That extension is about 4" long and you can orient it such that the sending unit points upwards. The extension is also hex-shaped on the exterior so a common socket is all you need to tighten it in place. Summit Racing has them for $18.
Oil Pressure Sender Extensions SUM-220699
For those of you that are using the older sending unit and jumping the resistor on the back of the gauge cluster, you can use an oil pressure sending unit extension from an early Mustang (64-73). That extension is about 4" long and you can orient it such that the sending unit points upwards. The extension is also hex-shaped on the exterior so a common socket is all you need to tighten it in place. Summit Racing has them for $18.
Oil Pressure Sender Extensions SUM-220699
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