Not exactly IDI specific, but I wonder if some of you with more formal automitive backround could shead some light on this.

Are there differences in types and ratings among "paper [engine] gaskets"?

I'm having some issues with small gaskets that I made by hand out of a felpro gasket material roll. They tend to fail after a few moths to a year when used in hot engine oil situations.
So far things like oil drain flanges from turbos or oil cooler manifold situations are giving me the most trouble.

Am I using the wrong material or am I doing something else wrong?
I've also been using permatex ultra-black on all of them so far.

 

the standard paper material isnt going to like the heat, moisture and pressure your throwing at it. thats why gaskets that are in those areas usually have a small thin sealer bead on it to help with high heat/pressure areas. look at the oil cooler to block gaskets.

using the black silicone should have helped, are you double checking the torque on them? torque it down (tighten with a ratchet or wrench, not with a torque wrench unless your **** like that) then go back 15 minutes or so later and re tighten it again. once the silicone has had time to "set up" there may be some give that your leaving in it.

 

i use Permatex gasket sealer on all my paper type gaskets. are you useing a actual 'paper' gasket meterial or some other type of gasket meterial

 

Its a roll of light brown gasket material that I bought at a local autoparts store. Says "felpro" on it. All I remember is it was available in 2 thicknesses and I opted for the thicker one.

 

its that tight cut cork material then? the paper gasket roll should be dark gray

 

This is it:

Fel-Pro 3022 - Karropak | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I did find one bolt that wasn't quite as tight as the rest, but the edges of the gasket that were exposed outside of the joint appeared to be very brittle. Which is why I am wondering if it was a heat related failure.

 

ya, looks like the cork to me. try the gray paper, OR just buy the gasket done lol. they are cheap enough. your stepping over dollars to pick up dimes man. the extra work isnt worth the pennies you save

 

They make fiber gaskets out of cork? It sure looks and feels like think cardboard but I've never researched anything like this before.

I make gaskets from scratch to save me a trip into town or to make gaskets that aren't normally stocked. This particular one will be replaced with a bought one.

 

skip the brown stuff its junk go with the rubberized felt gasket roll its dark grey in color and very durable stuff. I use it on everything when I need a hard to get gasket. Just make sure to follow felpro's directions you must use a solvent based gasket adhesive with it. The 3M gasket and weather stripping adhesive is what I use never an issue.

 

yea its a heavy paper material thats kinda sorta like construction paper. i have used that stuff on alot of diffrent things, but i find that the fiber gasket material works the best on any sort of a pressure application, the paper is kinda thin and dosent compress well. but if you can buy a premade gasket...do it, its much easier and they typicaly dont leak...and gaskets are usually pretty cheap

 

There are several types out there just remember to watch what you are putting together. The original gaskets are a specific thickness because of the "shim" that they become. Eaton transmissions for example. As far as sealants go. I never use them unless I am putting on something that covers a joint like an oil pan does and it is just a spot at that joint or on a rear end. I use ultra gray because I have used it for years and I know Synthetic gear oils won't hurt like it does most sealants. Permatex just came out with an rtv specifically for it. Never used it though...I will not use the "Right Stuff". I just fixed a power divider in a tractor a couple of weeks ago that a guy used way to much and it got into the pump and stopped it up. What I noticed was that the stuff had turned to jelly that was sitting in the oil. Leaked also...You will also see anaerobic sealant used allot now. Gear covers on diesels commonly use it. I have seen it in automatic transmissions and so on. Permatex calls it "gasket maker". Great for putting on bolt threads so seal them up if they are going into an open gear box. Anaerobic sealants set up when air is taken away where aerobic set up when in air like RTV's.

 

I think that solved it then, thanks guys. If this is cork, then that explains why it failed so easy. It is relatively thick as well, so it likely compressed over time in addition to being damaged by the heat of the cooler manifold and the turbocharger nearby.

The replacement gasket off the shelf was under $2, but involved a 1 hour drive from home (was in the area, so it wasn't too bit a deal). The gent that sold the gasket also services this line of engine and suggested an aircraft grade sealer applied to both sides of the gasket. I think this is what he was refering to:

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut..._Sealant_a.htm

Also heard that anaerobic sealants are more forgiving when it comes to oil contamination and are less likely to fail. I'll have to drop by the autoparts shop to see what they have for sealers other than the permatex black that I've been using so far.

 

I have made allot of gaskets. I wouldn't drive either if thickness wasn't an issue and most of the time it isn't.


You will see anaerobic sealants where clearance or a "machined fit" plus being sealed up is important. Is great stuff.

Felpro paper should be good. I looked in a parts book and they show several thicknesses. Evidently allot of parts store don't carry them.