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Pulling a piston, 300 I6

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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #16  
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If one bearing is shot, others can not be far behind. I vote for the rebuild too. You don't want to go to the trouble of changing one, and then a couple of months having to go through the entire process again. You can always get a j.yard rod or crank if you need it, and have it machined. Have the machine shop check the bore, the crank, and rods. Replace the bearings, rings, gaskets; rods, crank, pistons as needed.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #17  
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Most of you are absoluely correct

Yeah, I did try it and Kotzy, you are certainly correct.....there is no room between the webs of the block casting to get a 4" piston out from the bottom. Cant be done! No way, no how.
Thanks folks, all of you for your input and.......BTW I did take a some other advice. I decided not to go cheap after all, a complete rebuild. Had my crank turned and balanced. New rods, re ringed pistons, checked the oil pump outer race to housing clearance and the rotor assembly clearance and the specs were well within tolerance. I'm beginning to believe someone's been inside this 300 before. Also found 1 exhaust valve different from the rest suggesting someone at one time had the valves done. No matter, I'm doing them again. WAY too much work to go cheap or skip something that's marginal. Thanks again everyone!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 12:54 PM
  #18  
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The 300 is a very strong reliable engine. The block must be a cast iron alloy because the bores show so little wear providing they are not neglected. In all of them I had apart years ago the only problem I found is the way the cam bearings oil the mains and rods. Had they grooved the cam bearing bores and carried the oil around the back side of the cam bearings they would have been able to restrict the flow to the cam bearings thru a metered hole and not loose pressure thru them when they wore. kotzy
 
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