When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
And the "hec" is what exactly? The voltage "seems" to come up a lot quicker than before. If this is a result of a wrong regulator, I will put the old one back in as I don't want to burn out the glow plug module with too high voltage. But if the regulator doesn't kick in until the "hec" (whatever that is) lets it then I will leave it in. I have a voltage guage and watch it regularly.
The 110a OEM may have a smaller rating number, but it has a huge duty cycle rating.
OEM on mine lasted 200,000 miles, before its bearings wore out.
The aftermarket 130a lasted less than a year. (I am not responsible for it.)
The one I put on is a custom 145 amp.
My 145a will out alternate your average 200a alternator anytime --- all day.
Perhaps.....But the original question was about whether or not it would work by changing the regulator. After a lot of reading and a few dollars spent on a regulator I determined that it would.
So, I spent $25 and got an alternator that would work as well as a parts store version. If it only lasts a year, so what? It only cost me $25 and I learned a lot in the process.
Perhaps.....But the original question was about whether or not it would work by changing the regulator. After a lot of reading and a few dollars spent on a regulator I determined that it would.
So, I spent $25 and got an alternator that would work as well as a parts store version. If it only lasts a year, so what? It only cost me $25 and I learned a lot in the process.
Would it still be a good deal if it took out your FICM and batteries?
Would it still be a good deal if it took out your FICM and batteries?
Better than if I had spent $150 for a parts store version and IT failed and took out my batteries and FICM. And for the record, the stock OEM alternator already did that.
Look, I know what you are getting at. You made yourself clear in a prior post.
I know it would be lovely to have a high quality alternator, and I probably will someday. However, that was not my question.
Thank-you to all those (npccpartsman, cheezit, dchamberlain, etc.)who posted with constructive comments and helpful links.
Better than if I had spent $150 for a parts store version and IT failed and took out my batteries and FICM. And for the record, a OEM one already did that.
Look, I know what you are getting at. You made yourself clear in a prior post.
I know it would be lovely to have a high quality alternator, and I probably will someday. However, that was not my question.
Thank-you to all those (npccpartsman, cheezit, dchamberlain, etc.)who posted with constructive comments and helpful links.
I, for one, am glad to get the information.
In response to your question about the HEC--it stands for hybrid electronic cluster aka the instrument cluster in a Ford truck.
In a single alternator truck the alternator won't energize until the GPCM turns off. In a dual alternator truck the second alternator is controlled by the PCM.