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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 10:57 PM
  #16  
WarOzz's Avatar
WarOzz
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They still make the ford cables... complete set with shipping is like $280. I contacted them about a week ago and got told it would be 5 to 6 weeks for them to make me cables and then shipping on top of that. This is what led to me just buying a cheap set for now.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 10:59 PM
  #17  
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johnboggs21
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Originally Posted by WarOzz
They still make the ford cables... complete set with shipping is like $280. I contacted them about a week ago and got told it would be 5 to 6 weeks for them to make me cables and then shipping on top of that. This is what led to me just buying a cheap set for now.
If ya can hang onto em til I get some cash, Id be interested in getting that cheap set from ya when you put the good ones on.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 11:30 PM
  #18  
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I will probably run these ones until spring John, but if I do upgrade you got dibs on them.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 11:33 PM
  #19  
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johnboggs21
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sweet, mine are in sad sad shape. Suprised they'll even start the truck anymore. Ive got some heavy cable from a semi I should cut up and use for my F250. Hardest part will be finding that one goofy clamp
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 11:52 PM
  #20  
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As far as temperatures go, I am preparing for low teens, this should have me covered for trips mostly anywhere in the US. I already have two brand new Duralast Gold 850CCA batteries, and the cable terminals are clean. I would like a new set of cables, but at almost $300 there is no way I can afford those really nice ones any time soon. I may actually get a new starter first, as it is cheaper and the one I have now is unknown in age. Please take a look at this one from RockAuto, is this the gear-reduction starter that makes the engines crank really fast while at the same time uses less power from the batteries?
More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1876206

It says it is a 2.5kW starter, and they also have another starter that is 3.6kW (more powerful), this one:
More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1870629

So which one is better to have? By the way AutoZone also have that 3.6kW starter and it says on their site that it is "offset gear reduction", so this would mean both starters are gear-reduction then? I am confused...

Oh, and apparently RockAuto have Motorcraft battery cables for $160:
More Information for MOTORCRAFT WC8870
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #21  
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Unless you know your starter is bad I wouldn't replace it. You may want to pull it out and have it tested though. Here is the links to the cables I bought... for the temps your going to be around and the batteries you have these cables will be a nice improvement.
Positive Cable
Left side negative
Right side negative

I would advise taking the negative cables off and take them with you to the store. The way ours have the extra lead coming off it is better to take them in and match them up. Took 2 tries to get my right side one right.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #22  
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FORDF250HDXLT
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Originally Posted by WarOzz
I will probably run these ones until spring John, but if I do upgrade you got dibs on them.
they're as good as what came with the truck.i wouldn't sweat it war.they should go a good 10 years + for ya anyway.
at first i thought they looked like 1/0 that's all.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 10:14 PM
  #23  
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nappy nate
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From: Camano Island
Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
War,what size cables are those?
stock was 2/0 and sometime pre-late 80's 3/0 was stock going down to the starter.
anything under 2/0 and your going to heat things up like a Christmas tree.
you don't want to burn your truck down.



i payed over $300 for these tinned marine 3/0 +/- cables.there was a good reason for it.
Why the 10 cent wing nut , you should finish the job with he proper battery terminal connection.Like this
4/0 AWG FLAG BATTERY TERMINAL BIMETAL NEG: GIM-15493 Genuinedealz
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 10:38 PM
  #24  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
how could i add more wires to it latter? plow etc?
whats bad about the wing nut style terminals?
those were the only pieces i didn't get tinned cus i wasn't to sure about 'em.been working fine about a year now.

i wounder about these:
http://www.electerm.com/battery.html

BTL-3P ?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 10:41 PM
  #25  
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
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I have actually been thinking about one of those wing nut terminals on mine.

Electric over hydraulic dump bed
Snow plow
Big alternator

That just has to many big wires to join in any of the flag terminals I have found.

Notice the large power feeds he has off both batteries in the picture above in addition to the stock wiring.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 11:22 PM
  #26  
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From: South Dakota
Man, I haven't posted here in a good long time. But I thought I would step in and show a little different approach I took to my battery cables...





You might find it funny...but I made that battery tray out of an old steel snow shovel. Fits perfectly! Also bent the pan that held the vacuum sensor and voltage regulator 90* so that they are now vertical at the back side of the batteries. Worked for me

-Dave
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 01:00 PM
  #27  
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bubblegum
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From: in the shadows
Originally Posted by WarOzz
Unless you know your starter is bad I wouldn't replace it. You may want to pull it out and have it tested though. Here is the links to the cables I bought... for the temps your going to be around and the batteries you have these cables will be a nice improvement.
Positive Cable
Left side negative
Right side negative

I would advise taking the negative cables off and take them with you to the store. The way ours have the extra lead coming off it is better to take them in and match them up. Took 2 tries to get my right side one right.
These negative cables you posted look very small? Mine are very thick, as thick as the positive cable, which is 2/0. Also I have been told that starters do get "tired", and that the newer gear reduction style will be a big improvement even over a brand new factory-style starter?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 01:19 PM
  #28  
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From: Oregon
I got my Positive cables from O'Reilly and I got my negative cables from here:

Deka 2/0 Gauge Fleet Battery Cable (12") at Blain's Farm & Fleet

They have any length you'd need. I just cut the extra lead off of my old cable, and put a connector on the end, and have had no problems.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 06:27 PM
  #29  
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From: Hagerstown, Md
Originally Posted by Dave7.3
Man, I haven't posted here in a good long time. But I thought I would step in and show a little different approach I took to my battery cables...





You might find it funny...but I made that battery tray out of an old steel snow shovel. Fits perfectly! Also bent the pan that held the vacuum sensor and voltage regulator 90* so that they are now vertical at the back side of the batteries. Worked for me

-Dave
im not gonna lie to ya... i like this set up! very interested in actually doing this myself
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 08:42 PM
  #30  
WarOzz's Avatar
WarOzz
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From: Dairy, OR
Originally Posted by Dave7.3
Man, I haven't posted here in a good long time. But I thought I would step in and show a little different approach I took to my battery cables...





You might find it funny...but I made that battery tray out of an old steel snow shovel. Fits perfectly! Also bent the pan that held the vacuum sensor and voltage regulator 90* so that they are now vertical at the back side of the batteries. Worked for me

-Dave
Very nice idea and a good clean looking install. I like it a lot!!!
One question... what did you do with all that extra space on the other side??
 
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