Hey guys im chaning the pugs on my 01 ranger with a 4l. I was wondering what the gap should be, and also has anyone ever did it on this year? The plug that in the back on the passanger side(number six i think) looks like it will be no fun. Anyone have any tips on removing this one or any tricks to help get it out easier? Also I went with an auto light coper, are they any good or just another plug?

Thanks,

Lane

 

Most of us on here (FTE) only use Motorcraft plugs like the ones that came new in the engines. The gap is listed on your underhood emissions decal. Over the years I have tried a lot of different brand plugs and always came back to Ford plugs because they last longer, burn cleaner and cost less. You might be able to access the rear plug on the passenger side from underneath if you have long arms.

 

I was told that auto light was made by the same company as the motocraft pulg. The guy who told me could be wrong though. And thanks i was thinkin that might work also but not sure, ill have to let it cool down though.

THanks

Lane

 

You'll want to use the Specified new fine wire, iridium enhanced center electrode, with platinum pad ground sidewire plugs in your 4.0L waste spark ignition system.

Visit the "Tech Info" thread atop this forums thread listing page, scroll down & click on "why double platnum spark plugs".

Non double platinum plugs spark gap will quickly erode out of spec, with the double work load our waste spark ignition system puts on them.

I too choose to use the specified Motorcraft plugs & wires.

Some folks say that they find removing the wheel & fender liner to get at the plugs on the OHC 4.0L, makes it easier & worth the effort.

Spark gap on my 4.0L is .052-.056", I choose to gap at the low side of spec, as the gap is always increasing with use, so it'll remain in spec longer.
The smaller gap makes for a hotter & slightly advanced spark, which helps in really cold weather starts, when system battery voltage is at it's lowest & everything is having to work it's hardest to get us going.

Butter on a light film of dielectric grease inside the plug boots & onto the spark plugs external insulator, to help prevent flash over, on those wet dewy morning starts, or rainy days.

I also add high temp antisieze to the plug threads & Torque to min spec, to allow for the antisieze lube action & to get good heat transfer & not mess with the plug gap, or stretch the head threads. Makes them easier to remove next time too.

More thoughts for consideration.
Let us know how it goes.

 

Emission tag in engine compartment sezs what the gap should be and the type spark plug.

 

Hey guys just got done doin my plugs and it went smoth. I went to my buddies place and put it on the lift, took the tires off, and took the soft portion of the fender wall off. Worked great, the lift made it 10000000000 times easier aproxmintly. I went with a .054 gap on the plugs. I do wish i would have went with the other plugs after what i read, but i already bought them and figured it was better than what was there.

Thanks for the advice guys,

Lane

 

Good to hear the plug change went well.

Just a heads up, depending on the length of high rpm driving you do, you may find the plain copper plugs with just the stadard nickel electrodes, will only last 20-30K miles.

My 99 factory single platinum plugs were .008 over Max spc in just 30K miles & that was after I had removed them when new & gaped to the .052 Min side of spec.

So those factory single platinum spark plugs gap had opened up a total of .012 in just 30K miles!!!!