352/360 Counterweights
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352/360 Counterweights
Hi- this is the first time I've posted on this forum, although I have gleaned much valuable information from your posts over the years.
Here's my issue- I am trying to complete a rebuild of a 352 for a 1966 F250. I am using Badger .030" pistons (#B171). The problem is that the crankshaft counterweights are scraping the lower corners of some of the piston skirts. The original OEM pistons had a different skirt design, more rounded or elliptical in profile. This allowed them to dip down between the Cweights without any danger of interference. The Badger slugs have a flat skirt bottom with very prominent corners where they begin to arc up towards the pin bore. It is these corners that are contacting the Cweights.
I am using a "2T" crankshaft and "C1AE" rods, which I am told are suitable for both 352 and 360 engines.
My machinist says that if I were using a pre-360 "352 only" crank (C4AE-A or similar) that I would not have this problem as the counterweight profiles are different. Try as I might, I can't seem to find any info to support this.
Any suggestions?
Here's my issue- I am trying to complete a rebuild of a 352 for a 1966 F250. I am using Badger .030" pistons (#B171). The problem is that the crankshaft counterweights are scraping the lower corners of some of the piston skirts. The original OEM pistons had a different skirt design, more rounded or elliptical in profile. This allowed them to dip down between the Cweights without any danger of interference. The Badger slugs have a flat skirt bottom with very prominent corners where they begin to arc up towards the pin bore. It is these corners that are contacting the Cweights.
I am using a "2T" crankshaft and "C1AE" rods, which I am told are suitable for both 352 and 360 engines.
My machinist says that if I were using a pre-360 "352 only" crank (C4AE-A or similar) that I would not have this problem as the counterweight profiles are different. Try as I might, I can't seem to find any info to support this.
Any suggestions?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 3
From: Chesapeake, Va.
If you are going to have the engine balanced it won't matter and you should just remove about the same amount of material from each piston skirt to get at least .060 clearance. If the crank is going to be reground the grinder could set up to grind the counter weights enough for the clearance you need.
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