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I have a 99 F250 PSD and my A/C compressor is always running even when I have the controls on vent or evn when my heat is on. I would like to get this issue resolved before my compressor takes a s**t on me. Any ideas would be very helpful. Thank you
I have a 99 F250 PSD and my A/C compressor is always running even when I have the controls on vent or evn when my heat is on. I would like to get this issue resolved before my compressor takes a s**t on me. Any ideas would be very helpful. Thank you
Alex,
It's normal operation. When the heater is running, the refrigeration system de-humidifies the air, making the defroster work far better. There are only a couple of settings where the A/C isn't operational.
As a result, the clutch cycles far more than in older models, and you need to pay attention to the "clutch air gap". That's usually the first thing that brings down the A/C.
Alex, check the coil for power with a testlight(or disconnect the coil). The coil shouldn't have any power and the clutch shouldn't be engaged when in the vent position. This way you distinguish if it is an electrical problem or mechanical(clutch being toast).
Ok i jus went out to the truck to test what you guys suggested and now the A/C compressor is not turning at all even when i out it on max a/c. I used a volt meter due that all my tools are at work and the coil did not read any votale while it was on vent or max a/c. My a/c work perfect all summer so I do not understand why the compressor is not turning at all now.
You could be low on refrigerant. The low-side safety switch will prevent the compressor from coming on if there's not enough refrigerant to circulate the oil in the system. You'll need refrigeration gauges to find out.
May be an obvious thing to point out, but the pulley itself always spins with the engine running. The inner portion is attached via clutch to the compressor. That part is supposed to cycle and spin with the pulley or remain stationary compared to the pulley.
If the inner portion no longer spins, try applying 12V to the connector on the clutch (not the harness side, but the clutch side). See if the clutch clamps down. If you do this while the engine running, you should see the inner portion begin to spin. This will prove a good clutch and a workable air gap. If this works but you can't get the clutch to engage with the harness connected, and the ac in AC then you most likely have a hi/lo switch stopping your 12v clutch signal. Good place to start.
Hey Springer, I just wanted to chime in and say your instructions where great, I replaced my clutch, pulley and coil yesterday, today it was nearly 90 deg and the a/c worked right away AND great. I didn't even have to put it on max a/c. Thanks again
Yes, but I figured it out. I thought it was closer to the shaft, but too dirty to see, turns out it was in plain sight LOL, I broke my spreader tool getting it off. Also, the coil didn't want to come off, and the new one was a bear to get on there straight.
Last edited by damons; Jul 24, 2011 at 12:13 AM.
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