Anybody ever try the 'clear vision' procedure in the factory book, for the sttering wheel? Section 11-00. Here's a link to an ecopy:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...e=stjsb40r.htm

 

thats interesting, never thought of that but the tie rod fix is somewhat easier to fine tune the steering wheel and the tires.

 

I thought it was interesting, too, but I'm pretty sure it's damn near impossible.

just got back inside after trying it. The input shaft on the box is keyed to mate with the lower column's coupler and it only goes on one way (unless you get out the die grinder).

I got the truck's front end aligned earlier in the week and the guy said he couldn't center the steering wheel. I rechecked the alignment machine printout and the only thing that's off is the camber on the LF wheel (+1.3 deg and that shouldn't matter). he said he couldn't see anything else that was bent and hinted at $400 to fix it (new box).

I saw the "clear vision" process in the 'manual' and thought that was worth a try. Now we know it doesn't work, at least on mine.

mongo - what's the "tie rod fix" you are referring to? (this is TIB 2WD CC and the drag link only has the outer tie rod adjustable.)

 

If your alignment guy can't center the steering wheel he has no idea what he's doing.
I could see this Clear Vision procedure your talking about. Can you elaborate?

 

Nevermind I found it. Read the note at the bottom of the procedure

On F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco, steering wheel clear vision is preset at assembly prior to toe adjustment and cannot be adjusted by removing the steering wheel (3600) and arbitrarily misindexing the steering wheel and center shaft alignment. Improper clear vision is an indication that toe is incorrect.

If all those are excluded what the heck is left. BTW you are right this is impossible at the steering gear and inappropriate to do it at the steering wheel as you would have to grind the key out of the steering wheel. The correct way to set the steering wheel straight is to do a PROPER alignment. Take it back and make them do it over again or ask for you money back if they can't manage.

 

Tim:

thanks for the sanity check.

I've found I'm better off just not using a shop that can't get it right the first time. Another reason for the DIY approach; nobody to blame but me if its screwed up.

About all that it could be are the outer tie rod ends or the box - all the rest has been replaced. Guess will start with the outer ends and go from there.

Any other thoughts?

 

You don't need any parts unless there are some that are loose. The tie rods just need to be adjusted correctly the make toe in correct and the steering wheel straight.

 

Guess i owe you all a bit of an apology and a bit more info.

The truck hit a slick spot (she was driving) about 20-30 mph and bounced off the left curb and ended up parallel to the guard rail on the right. the LF rim's outer edge (where the balancing weights go) had a slight depression (inwards) but the bead never unseated or leaked afterwards. The bead area never was distorted as the tire was removed for inspection. the other damage was the right outer 25% of the bumper folding up a bit. it creased the bumper but didn't mess up anything else over there. (I think the bumper moved so much due to the lack of reinforcing plate outside of the frame attaching brackets.)

I changed both inner ties rods, mostly as they had a bit of slop before and the dust boots had deteriorated. I also think the 'drag link' one (tied to the pitman arm) had a slight bow to it (verified by doing the side to side - new to old - before the change).

I did an eyeball on the outer ends but couldn't discern any distortion (they look much newer than the inner ones did). Any tips for checking these?

The gear is fairly tight, not a lot of play between input shaft motion and pitman arm movement (lash at the wheel is ~ 1", total L-R).

the guy that did the alignment said the frame was "straight enough" within the factory tolerance for the 4 sets of diagonal measurements he took. I watched that check and have not doubt it was done correctly.

Being as the gear is still functional and has free movement, I'm hard pressed to belive it has 'skipped' inside. If it makes a difference, it is PS, not manual.

Again, apologize for not having the 'whole story' up front.

 

Well I went thru the column and nothing got twisted there.

drove up to the parts store and compared the outer tie rod ends - not them.

turned out the sector shaft was twisted. a rebuilt one was the fastest fix (along with a new pressure hose, the return hose, an in-line filter, and some mercon ATF).

 

I'm glad you found the problem. I wish I had seen this earlier because I would have told you the sector shaft twisting is what usually happens when you curb one.
As for the clear vision stuff in that manual. Ford is on crack. They should have included the disclaimer that the intermediate shaft is only to be adjusted if the thing has been taken off by a shade tree or the gear box replaced. You NEVER adjust the steering wheel by any other method than adjusting the drag link on these trucks. Unless that is, you like dog tracking. It will if it's not right. The alignment tech can see the angles on the monitor as he's aligning it. The proper procedure is to set the total toe, or individual toe if both sides are adjustable, then adjust the steering wheel by the SAI angle if you are good. Or with a calibrated eye if you are really good. That's how I always do it. I think my eye is straighter than most computer aligners. I never had a complaint anyway.

If you ever catch a hack taking your steering wheel off to center it then make sure you get him fired right after he accidentally falls on the floor and spits a few teeth out. THose alignment marks are the first thing I check on one that has the wheel way off center.

And just so you know, if a gear box ever skips a tooth then it will also break the housing. That alignment guy doesn't have much experience with the nature of cast iron I guess. That stuff doesn't stretch and will not allow anything to skip inside without breaking.

 

RR - thanks for the inputs. I've never seen one twist....break, yes, but never twist. Guess the 'newer' stuff isn't as tough as the 'old stuff' I grew up with. Ditto with the CDS abuse for have the 'clear view' procedure in the manual - not only is it bad practice but you just can't do it with all the keyed connections.

I was kinda peeved when I found it because it was easy to see once you knew where to look. I'm still shakin my head 'cause the guy was bordering on arrogant due to the "25 years of being ASE certified". I deal with 'certified' organizations at work and, personally, I think many certificates (of many types) have been "purchased" by large corporations.

If you weren't a full 24 hours drive away, I would have asked with a cooler full of refreshments. I'll keep you in mind if anymore FE issues arise.