Spring Shackle; CDR
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: North Bend
Spring Shackle; CDR
Hey all:
I remember reading on here that if you reverse the front spring shackle you get some minor amount of lift, like 1/2" or 1". Though now that I searched for it, that term means to pull it from the front side of the spring and mount it to the rear side of the spring, whereas when I read it it seemed like it meant just flipping the actual piece 180degrees so that the shackle is "backwards", changing the geometry of that connection(since the shackle is offset), thereby giving the user some lift.
Does that sound right/plausible/totally bonkers? I have the twin I-beam suspension and after spending many hours and bad words replacing the bushings, I still need more lift in these tired springs, as I am eating some pretty nice tires much faster than I should.
Thanks guys,
Joshua
DOH! forgot about CDR: Anyone have a source for the rubber tube from intake to tuna can? I can't seem to find one and mine was so brittle it broke off in the hole but thankfully I got the pieces out; but now it's just sitting there not sealing up.
I remember reading on here that if you reverse the front spring shackle you get some minor amount of lift, like 1/2" or 1". Though now that I searched for it, that term means to pull it from the front side of the spring and mount it to the rear side of the spring, whereas when I read it it seemed like it meant just flipping the actual piece 180degrees so that the shackle is "backwards", changing the geometry of that connection(since the shackle is offset), thereby giving the user some lift.
Does that sound right/plausible/totally bonkers? I have the twin I-beam suspension and after spending many hours and bad words replacing the bushings, I still need more lift in these tired springs, as I am eating some pretty nice tires much faster than I should.
Thanks guys,
Joshua
DOH! forgot about CDR: Anyone have a source for the rubber tube from intake to tuna can? I can't seem to find one and mine was so brittle it broke off in the hole but thankfully I got the pieces out; but now it's just sitting there not sealing up.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Hagerstown, Md
92-97 F-250/F-350 front shackle reversal - Sky's Off-road Design
thats the shackle reversal for the front of the truck but its only 92-97 front ends if you pm oreo he made one for his truck being his was pre 92
thats the shackle reversal for the front of the truck but its only 92-97 front ends if you pm oreo he made one for his truck being his was pre 92
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
ford will have the tube and its cheap. its a tube now that replaces the grommet in the valley pan. so carefully take that old grommet out before you install. it will most likely be brittle so again, careful not to drop stuff into that black hole! haha. looks like this
CDR and Tube
CDR and Tube
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Elk City, OK
thats the one i made. front 4 1/4" and 4 1/2" rear.
heres the sky kit installed
theres a cross brace that goes in to tie both sides tight. you have to lower your panhard bar bracket, get a drop pitman arm and your good to go. factory driveline will be ok for the 5" drop, brake line brackets just get fipped and your good to go
the rear Sky's Off-road Design - Home also has a shackle flip kit. works well, easy to install and gives you 4 1/2" lift. just need to get some 4degree axle shims in there. you can go block lift, but between the two, id go flip kit.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Hagerstown, Md
oreo when you put the rear on you just use the factory holes that you ground the rivets out of right? and then just turned what looked like a 2" block backwards to act as the 4 degree angle?
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
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From: Elk City, OK
grind the rivets down, punch them out, you use the factory holes. thats why its leaned like that. the 2" block is straight sometimes, angled others. ive found them both ways. on mine, i just ordered 4 degree shims.
4 degree axle shims 3" wide w/3/8" center pins (pair): eBay Motors (item 390258797469 end time Dec-02-10 07:07:00 PST)
4 degree axle shims 3" wide w/3/8" center pins (pair): eBay Motors (item 390258797469 end time Dec-02-10 07:07:00 PST)
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
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From: Elk City, OK
for your truck, it'll be an easy install. the pre 92 frames need to be torched and boxed in. thats why i figured, why buy their kit and modify my frame when i can just make a kit around my frame.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: North Bend
Wow, I love the enthusiasm! haha
But... I was just asking what the best, cheapest, or fastest ways are to lift my truck back up to original ride height, so that my tires stop wearing so unevenly(besides it looks so dumb with bad camber).
Thanks!
But... I was just asking what the best, cheapest, or fastest ways are to lift my truck back up to original ride height, so that my tires stop wearing so unevenly(besides it looks so dumb with bad camber).
Thanks!
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: North Bend
Oh yeah I forgot to say that I did do all the front bushings with NAPA ones, and it worked pretty good for a little while but still never back to stock-- it's only been 4 months or less and now it's almost as bad as it was before all that work.
I'll check out some add-a-leafs, thanks.
I'll check out some add-a-leafs, thanks.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: North Bend
Ok so I've found some Add-a-Leafs for around $110 shipped and I'm ready to pull the trigger, but:
I've read a bunch about them making the ride suck, which isn't the hugest deal to me(it's a TRUCK for goodness sake) but is it really that bad? if it takes it back to the original height(ish) then it should still drive similarly, right?
Also, the PO installed adjustible ball joint bushings, which are already maxxed out, so those should be very helpful in re-tuning the camber after the lift, score for me.
I have probably only 3/4" between bumper and stop on my suspension, maybe 1". What's "normal"?
Thanks!
I've read a bunch about them making the ride suck, which isn't the hugest deal to me(it's a TRUCK for goodness sake) but is it really that bad? if it takes it back to the original height(ish) then it should still drive similarly, right?
Also, the PO installed adjustible ball joint bushings, which are already maxxed out, so those should be very helpful in re-tuning the camber after the lift, score for me.
I have probably only 3/4" between bumper and stop on my suspension, maybe 1". What's "normal"?
Thanks!