Right!

You don't ever EVER want to add diesel fuel to gasoline!

Diesel has solvent properties that gasoline doesn't have and it will eat just about everything in you fuel system that is rubber or of gasket material. Also, the remaining diesel fuel and residue Rick speaks of will eventually destroy your oil and it's lubricating capability. And it doesn't take long.

 

Most cars get a little worse mileage in the winter. Especially if you use straight wt oils. (hence the reason for multi-grade oils!!)

Most areas in the US that might experience freezing or below will get "winterized" diesel. That means blending Kerosene into the fuel to lower the "Cloud point". (Northern Tier states like MN, SD, WI, Mi, AK etc) sometimes get 1D (#1 Diesel) which is essentially almost ALL Kerosene.)

The EPA requires many areas to start using E10 gasoline from OCT to about APR and the refiner will increase the vapor pressure slightly to help cold starting. (it doesn't matter with fuel injected engines. but it makes a HUGE difference in a carburetor)

I have a boat too. It holds 44 gallons. I have NEVER used Stabil or other snake oil in the fuel. It sits from about August to JUN every year in a closed non-heated shop. I leave it 1/2 to 1/4 tank and just fill it up when use it in the Summer. It's been operated that way since it was new. (1987 model) I do change theoil/filter in FALL, and the fuel filter in Summer right before I use it.

 

I burn the non-oxy gas in my M-1.

I am grateful that it it is available in this area - the pumps have signs stating it is for "non-oxygenated fuel is only for use with classic cars, recreational vehicles, and small engines only)".

It is a bit more money per gallon.

 

We have different blend formulas, one for summer and one for winter. Whenever they change over, late fall, mid spring, the price of gas spikes. Between the government screwing with stuff they don't know anything about and being influenced by all of money thrown at them we always are paying.

 

Back to the original point of this thread. I thought that the biggest problem with the flathead was that after WWII, gas had a much higher octane level which prompted the automakers to go with OHVs and higher compression ratios. If today's gas is at least 87 octane, won't it work OK.

Plus back to the off topic side - how is it that some drag cars run on alcohol solely?

 

I've never noticed any performance issue with either the flat 6 in my F-2 or the flat 8 in my panel truck. My trucks are stock and don't need anything fancy to run on. I do get slight pining once in a while, rarely, but a slight adjustment in timing seems to the trick. We've been running this crap for 15+ years, since before I started driving my F-2. I can get non formulated gas 30 miles away but I'm not going to blow $20 in gas to get the stuff.

 

It would depend on what the compression ratio of the engine is and whether it "pings" or not.

Aren't most of the stock flat-head engines at 7.0:1 or so?

If so, they'll run on any of the gasolines available today.

If you want to "up" the compression ratio to get more power or better mileage, then you're going to have to run mid or premium gas...

With the price of premium being only 10-15% more than regular in most cases... less than 10% in your area) it doesn't cost that much per mile to run premium if you have to.

For example, the Circle K below had prices of $2.65 -$2.84 for REG and PREMIUM gas a couple of days ago.

That's only $0.19 more for the premium! (roughly 7% higher for premium!!)



GasPriceWatch - Power to the People at the Pump


Circle K
4010 Austin Peay Hwy (Hwy 14)
@WK Singleton Pkwy (Hwy 204)
Memphis, TN 38128

When I had my 292 rebuilt, the machine shop increased my compression ratio so I would get a little more power. The shop owner told me that I might have to run mid grade or premium to keep it from "pinging"

My F-600 is not going to be a "daily-driver" but i still expect it to get around 15 MPG on the highway, unloaded.



Dragsters run on methanol Which has a higher octane than regular gasoline. Ethanol also has an octane number of about 110

 

I am new to this forum but not new to the F1. I have owned several over the years. All of this was before the new oils and sorry gas. Now I am ending my years with one foot in the grave and one on a banana peel and had to do just one more old truck before I fall in. I have included a web site to find non ethanol gas supplyers. I do my best to not put ethanol stuff in anything with a carb. I do drive 25 miles to get the good stuff and carry several gas cans to fuel the yard equipment, the bike and the truck and tow the boat to fill it up.

Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

I found a good web site that explains how the ethanol seperates and deteriorates the fuel system but because it promotes a product I held off posting it.

This is all just my two cents worth and am in no way wanting to start a fuel fued.

 

Gas: I was able to buy ethanol free gas locally here until they ran out of gas, since they didn't pay their bills and their supplier shut them off. So now I put in a gas additive with every fill up. I bought a product by Star Tron at Advanced Auto as a fuel additive when I have to buy ethanol gas, 1 oz per 8 gallons.

Oil: last winter I first heard about zinc removed from motor oil. So I now add a zinc additive wit every oil change. Again this was bought at the Advance Auto store.

 

Also,

the Vintage Truck magazine two issues ago had a real good article on gas: summer blend, winter blend and why you should not have a lot of gas in your tank from the fall driving season over the winter and into the spring season. Also, it stated that if you have 10% ethanol gas in your tank you should run it out or use it up when you store your truck for winter as stated here earlier it will corrode your tank and other components...