Yea if you found fluid in the booster the master is leaking and needs replaced.

And yes just skip the reman's, save yourself some time/aggravation go right for a new one, cost more but worth it in the long run.

Said it before and I'll say it again, be sure and follow the included instructions, bench bleed it by hand before you put it on the truck, then bleed the lines.

If a master won't pump up solid by hand first, its a waste of time bolting it on.

 

thanks.. i sorta figured it was a sign the master was fried... i did find a new one as i didnt want to trust a reman with the brake system... im at the point the only thing else that hasnt been replaced in this system ( other than the abs ) is my lines so i picked up some new lines last night when i got the master and figured might as well have a brand new brake system.

 

ok replaced the master.. after bench bleeding it to the T as in having the lines circle back around into the master... and bled all 5 spots in order.. and.... NOTHING... same old same old.. if you push it slow like you are stopping normal it just sinks to the floor, but if you slam it like a emergency stop it will harden up halfway then sink... did i get a crap master ( yes it is new not reman ) or shouldnt have i bench bled by running lines from the ports to the resivior?? i tried it with the abs and bypassing the abs.. both times no change.. im at a loss here

 

also on the master you have to take the fitting off (its a 7/8ths) and install it on the new master.. it gives a new o ring for it and the paper called it a proportioning valve...now i looked at my 89 and on the inside (directly into the master) it had a plastic thing on the end of it.. the master i got from the junkyard was a 91 and did NOT have that same plastic peice. it was just straight metal fitting like a adapter.. could it (the one from the 89) be bad and causing my issues? if so what is its proper name and where could i find one because i searched autozone.com for proportioning valve and it said no results...

thanks again guys

 

89 it has the two piece master cylinder right, one with the plastic fluid tank just like the newer models?

after bench bleeding it to the T as in having the lines circle back around into the master.

If so and you bottomed out its piston in its bore during the process, you probably damaged that master cylinder.
The instructions specifically state not to do so, not to exceed a 1" stroke during the bench bleed process.

 

as far as bottoming it out i did not, atleast not that im aware of.. shoulda been a little more careful lol.. ok so i will rip it out and take it back calling it a defective one, swap it for another new one and try again, only this time being extremely careful not to go farther than the 1 inch it calls for... does it matter (quality wise) that it is from advance auto??

 

I think its time you sought professional help...

 

Not sure why it states that, what prevents damage to the master if heaven forbid a line blows and the pedal goes to the floor for example, not sure how far you can actually go and what damage is done if exceeded.
Might be some attempt to prevent getting so many back as defective.

Only real difference, at that point the cylinder would be full of fluid, at least until run dry in attempts to stop!

I even go as far as laying a short section of 2x4" on the floor under the pedal during the initial line bleed after putting it on the truck, just to be sure my helper doesn't over extend the piston. Get some pedal then remove it. Use a hand vac or like bleeding the lines doing so wouldn't be necessary.
I have and will use a hand vac, I still prefer having a helper pump/hold the pedal to bleed the lines.

Follow those instructions, bleed the master by hand before putting it on the truck. The best reason, besides avoiding premature damage to one, you'll know right off if the master you have is good or not.
If it pumps up solid its good, if not, if never gets solid and with minimal piston travel (1/4" or less), it needs to be returned and exchanged for one that will.

 

but in order to get it to the point it only goes 1/4 or so, wouldny it have to be capped to hold the pressure in to see if its so? reason i say that is the instructions state to do that til it's 1/2 max (i believe thats what it said) but the way they state it is it will build to that even without you plugging the ports.. sorry if my questions sound dumb.... this is why i prefer air brakes... much simpler lol

 

It can't build pressure without the line ports plugged.

The kit should include plastic plugs to block the line ports, one yellow, one blue? One reason you gotta pump it by hand is the plastic plugs, using the brake pedal will build enough force to blow one or both plugs right out once it starts building a little psi. You don't need that kinda pressure to bleed the master before putting it on the truck, using a screwdriver doing so by hand will get the air out.

Seams like the master from my supplier said 1/4" but maybe I don't recall correctly?

 

quarter.. half.. im not real sure.. but i got another new one, they swapped them for me without issue.. i will read the paper again and see how much travel exactly... 1/4 sounds right to me.. guess thats what happens is you dont think right when you have a lack of sleep... damn midnight shift lol

but i even asked the guy at the part store so i do have a better understanding of how to do it now.. hopefully tommorow will be nice enough i can play with the new master and hopefully get it workin properly.. ill let you all know