Donor Alternator??
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 694
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From: Vashon, WA
Donor Alternator??
Heading to pull-a-part tomorrow morning to find an alternator for my '59 f250 w the 292. I my generator is no good and I'd like to get rid of that and the voltage regulator. Anything to look out for? Obviously it has to have a V belt. What vehicles usually have high power, reliable alternators?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 4
From: South west Idaho
If you want to not have a regulator at all , I would just buy a new single wire one and be done with it. you will have too do some bracket and wiring changes when you dump the generator. Single wire is real easy to hook up most have instructions with them . I never do have good luck buying used electrical parts . I end up making a couple of trips back sometimes and at todays cost of fuel ,cheap parts are not allways so cheap.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
Howdy,
wait a min...........you have roads over there on Vashon?
I just bought a re-man alternator from Autozone for my 292.
It was spec'd for an 85 Buick I think...... It's a Delco 12si 94A 3 wire alternator.
You could easily get a single wire and it would work just as good. (the 3 wire alts have capability for an "idiot-light" and remote sensing[which you don't have to use])
The 12si is also a better alt.
Read the following. Catalog
There's no magic in the 3-wire alt. (or any of them for that matter)
I got mine from Autozone because I got a "lifetime" warranty. I'll never have to buy another one!! There was a "core" charge too. I just used an old alt I had for the core. They don't care what's in the box as long as you return an alternator. I gave them an old Bosch alt from a VW as a core....
Just about ALL the modern alts have the regulator built in.
Cheers,
Rick
wait a min...........you have roads over there on Vashon?
I just bought a re-man alternator from Autozone for my 292.
It was spec'd for an 85 Buick I think...... It's a Delco 12si 94A 3 wire alternator.
You could easily get a single wire and it would work just as good. (the 3 wire alts have capability for an "idiot-light" and remote sensing[which you don't have to use])
The 12si is also a better alt.
Read the following. Catalog
There's no magic in the 3-wire alt. (or any of them for that matter)
I got mine from Autozone because I got a "lifetime" warranty. I'll never have to buy another one!! There was a "core" charge too. I just used an old alt I had for the core. They don't care what's in the box as long as you return an alternator. I gave them an old Bosch alt from a VW as a core....
Just about ALL the modern alts have the regulator built in.
Cheers,
Rick
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 4
From: South west Idaho
Say rick , thats a good warranty,better than NAPA,i believe,same trade in there to. At least it's better than a used one you may have to take back,thats allways my luck. Plus you have to do the change out again,I'l take new on electrical , other parts depends on what I am after. 
JIM
JIM
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Upper Left Coast
Hi Jim,
yeah those alternators do fail...I have replaced the alt in my 94 diesel Suburban twice now.
Seems the Sub's with rear air have an undersized alt. and they don't seem to last long....
The last time though it was a "free" replacement because I used Schucks (O-Reilly) Auto parts.
After reading the stuff on the 10si/12si alts, I now think it's because of cooling! When I get everything installed in my 55, I am going to provide an outside air source to the alternator.
My Suburban alt gets air directly off the radiator. (which is always around 190*)
It'll be fairly easy to put a small cowling on the alt with a tube getting cool air from the front. I think that'll make a pretty big difference. This is how a lot of aircraft alternators are set up....
yeah those alternators do fail...I have replaced the alt in my 94 diesel Suburban twice now.
Seems the Sub's with rear air have an undersized alt. and they don't seem to last long....
The last time though it was a "free" replacement because I used Schucks (O-Reilly) Auto parts.
After reading the stuff on the 10si/12si alts, I now think it's because of cooling! When I get everything installed in my 55, I am going to provide an outside air source to the alternator.
My Suburban alt gets air directly off the radiator. (which is always around 190*)
It'll be fairly easy to put a small cowling on the alt with a tube getting cool air from the front. I think that'll make a pretty big difference. This is how a lot of aircraft alternators are set up....
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Vashon, WA
haha hell yea we have roads here, and unlike Seattle you can actually drive on them because they're not clogged with red lights and morons.
Well I got one from a late 80's/early 90's Ford diesel. Looks to be in good shape and pretty big, also had the double V pulley so I can run something else off of it if I have to.
Any easy way to tell if it has an internal regulator? It had a large wire obviously main power and two smaller ones(marked field and Stator)
Well I got one from a late 80's/early 90's Ford diesel. Looks to be in good shape and pretty big, also had the double V pulley so I can run something else off of it if I have to.
Any easy way to tell if it has an internal regulator? It had a large wire obviously main power and two smaller ones(marked field and Stator)
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
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From: Poway, Ca.
Chances are if it is marked/has wires for Field and Stator, it needs an external regulator:
Drawing was made for another question involving a remote start switch, but the main alternator hook ups would be the same - Ammeter/light differs with type.
Drawing was made for another question involving a remote start switch, but the main alternator hook ups would be the same - Ammeter/light differs with type.
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Brett Foote
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Upper Left Coast
haha hell yea we have roads here, and unlike Seattle you can actually drive on them because they're not clogged with red lights and morons.
Well I got one from a late 80's/early 90's Ford diesel. Looks to be in good shape and pretty big, also had the double V pulley so I can run something else off of it if I have to.
Any easy way to tell if it has an internal regulator? It had a large wire obviously main power and two smaller ones(marked field and Stator)
Well I got one from a late 80's/early 90's Ford diesel. Looks to be in good shape and pretty big, also had the double V pulley so I can run something else off of it if I have to.
Any easy way to tell if it has an internal regulator? It had a large wire obviously main power and two smaller ones(marked field and Stator)
Yeah. If it has a field and stator connection that is for an external regulator.
I just went to Rock Auto parts and found SEVERAL alternators for a 92 Diesel.
Several regulators too.
You'll have to determine what you have and get a regulator that matches it.
You might take it to Schucks or Autozone and have them test it.
Then ask them if they can source a regulator.
At Rock Auto, alternators ranged from about $40 to over $600!! The regulators ranged from just $8 to about $140.
I also don't like lights and Morons!! I stay away from Seattle if I can!!
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
There are some newer micro regulators that bolt right to the back of the alternator. It make it a "kind -a" one wire because the only wire that comes off the alternator goes to supply power. It also has a plug to run to a charge "light" if you don't have a gauge (orange wire).
The last one I installed looked like this:
This particular one (and they vary for each type alternator) was made by Transpo, P/N 7078 and handles 60 amp alternators.
Might be an option if you are looking for a cleaner installation!
The last one I installed looked like this:
This particular one (and they vary for each type alternator) was made by Transpo, P/N 7078 and handles 60 amp alternators.
Might be an option if you are looking for a cleaner installation!
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Vashon, WA
Took it down to Napa and got it tested, works fine. Also got a regulator.
Got everything installed in the truck and it works great, 14v at idle.
The "I" terminal on the regulator needs to be wired so it has power when the key is turned on, if it's not hooked up the alternator won't work.
On my EZ-wire kit this is the alternator exciter wire
Got everything installed in the truck and it works great, 14v at idle.
The "I" terminal on the regulator needs to be wired so it has power when the key is turned on, if it's not hooked up the alternator won't work.
On my EZ-wire kit this is the alternator exciter wire
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
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I pulled my alternator out of mid-90's Taurus for $25. The bone yards are full of those cars. It was a 3 wire and works great. I have also used 3 wire alternator from a mid 90's GM. Both worked well and were cheap.
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