428 done
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
428 done
Well almost.. It's 90% installed I just need a new timing chain. My stock crap china chain has wayyy too much slop for me and is junk and I'm ordering a cloyes tru roller setup. I've listed my parts list before but here it goes
428 block .030 over / 10.5 forged pistons
d2teaa heads ported with stainless cj valves and matching cam springs
33-248-4 comp cam
770 holley truck avenger
performer rpm intake
headers
crane cam electronic ignition
9 qt 391 pan with rear pickup
arp rod bolts
electric fan
oiling mods,meling pump,arp oil drive shaft,.090 restrictirs in head oiling holes for rockers..
428 block .030 over / 10.5 forged pistons
d2teaa heads ported with stainless cj valves and matching cam springs
33-248-4 comp cam
770 holley truck avenger
performer rpm intake
headers
crane cam electronic ignition
9 qt 391 pan with rear pickup
arp rod bolts
electric fan
oiling mods,meling pump,arp oil drive shaft,.090 restrictirs in head oiling holes for rockers..
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
I'm so stoked to finally have this motor back from the machine shop. I got the bores honed to match pistons, crank turned, line honed mains,machined deck, arp rod bolts and assembly of short block. I had to modify the rear sump pickup some to sit lower in the 9 qt pan along with re weld the drain plug to the bottom of pan vs side as it perfectly interferred with a header tube. We tig welded it up at coffee break today at my shop. So glad I spotted it before I sealed timing chain with pan.
Question. Anyone have a similar build like mine and could suggest a carb size that worked well. I have a new 770 holley and I figure it's pretty dam close to what I need. Maybe even jet down just a hair. I'm hoping for 450hp and just over 500lbs of torque out of this build.
this is exactly what it looks like right now but this was my 390 from last year and I just did the same
Question. Anyone have a similar build like mine and could suggest a carb size that worked well. I have a new 770 holley and I figure it's pretty dam close to what I need. Maybe even jet down just a hair. I'm hoping for 450hp and just over 500lbs of torque out of this build.
this is exactly what it looks like right now but this was my 390 from last year and I just did the same
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
I got a question on non adjustable rockers. I have the drip trays that bolt under them and they are different. one has drain guides that run down to intake ports and one doesnt from what I had left over from my 390. Is there a left and a right and also the one with the guides doesnt even fit properly anyway. Also what tips have you got to determine a left and right on the rockers? I see a very slight bevel on the ends and my haynes mentioned something about that..???
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
so from what i got from barry R's Fe book is that not all tins works with every intake manifold. I took a zip cut on the one that didnt fit and trimmed the drain rail. It still has some function to it with most of the guide...
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From: Long Island USA
Interesting no one answered about the drip rails. From what I recall, they should be the same on both sides. If you have a mismatched pair, someone did some work along the line 
I think the ones that drain down around the intake ports help to keep oil from pooling in the heads at high RPM. But then, good rockers/rocker shafts without excessive clearance help more, I think.
I think the ones that drain down around the intake ports help to keep oil from pooling in the heads at high RPM. But then, good rockers/rocker shafts without excessive clearance help more, I think.
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What make header are you running?? I've tried to locate a nice shorty set but looks like they only make a long tube for the FE.
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Postmaster
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From: Victoria , BC
I have no idea. I do have a shorter set kicking around too but again don't know brand but you can get them
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I got a question on non adjustable rockers. I have the drip trays that bolt under them and they are different. one has drain guides that run down to intake ports and one doesnt from what I had left over from my 390. Is there a left and a right and also the one with the guides doesnt even fit properly anyway.
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
John
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
So I'll have this motor running this weekend. I'm using castrol 10/30 with comp cam zinc additive for break in. My machinist suggests I run a 20/50 oil down the road. Is this regular for a fe?
I'm waiting on my cloyes timing chain as of now. Also any tips on priming the oil for initial startup as well? I'm concerned on the oil gallery plug in distributor hole and need to know if its installed. If its missing i read it will prevent oil pressure...??
I'm waiting on my cloyes timing chain as of now. Also any tips on priming the oil for initial startup as well? I'm concerned on the oil gallery plug in distributor hole and need to know if its installed. If its missing i read it will prevent oil pressure...??
Laughing Gas
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The oil weight should be dependant on yoru bearing clearances. Your machinist should know. I use 20W50 with 0.0025" bearing clearances, but the Ford spec is very wide and the clearances could be very much smaller and still be in spec. In that case, a lower weight might be needed. Maybe you could ask him what the clearances are to confirm his oil weight recommendation.
I always used to crank the engine over with the plugs out to prime the engine with oil, but I now use the drill method. The engine cranking method relies on a lot of assembly lube being used during the build-up.
Get a used dist shaft or the proper tool, or glue a socket to an extension and spin the oil pump shaft with an electric drill CCW. At the same time you can look down the hole and if you see a lot of oil shooting out from the aft side of the large dist hole...squirting toward the front of the engine, then that plug is missing. You'll feel the pump prime as the drill will suddenly become very loaded once the pump starts pumping.
Be careful if you use the socket and extension method. You don't want to lose the socket in the engine.
I always used to crank the engine over with the plugs out to prime the engine with oil, but I now use the drill method. The engine cranking method relies on a lot of assembly lube being used during the build-up.
Get a used dist shaft or the proper tool, or glue a socket to an extension and spin the oil pump shaft with an electric drill CCW. At the same time you can look down the hole and if you see a lot of oil shooting out from the aft side of the large dist hole...squirting toward the front of the engine, then that plug is missing. You'll feel the pump prime as the drill will suddenly become very loaded once the pump starts pumping.
Be careful if you use the socket and extension method. You don't want to lose the socket in the engine.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
Ok guys I got another question for ya... I got my cloyes tru roller timing chain tody and it has 3 keyways. Basically it says you can run one position stock, one retarded for high rpm, and one advance for low end torque. It also mentions something about some cams are spec for these and will run the stock setup. Now do I run the stock setting? Or will i gain an adavantage by going advance for some more bottom end torque?? im confused....
Heres a link to there desription
http://www.cloyes.com/Aftermarket/Te...S/Default.aspx
Heres a link to there desription
http://www.cloyes.com/Aftermarket/Te...S/Default.aspx
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
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Apparently advancing the cam will improve low end torque at the expense of some high end Hp....and vice versa on retarding the cam timing.
I'd put it in "straight up" if I hadn't tried the cam before, and then change it later if the results wern't what I wanted. It's a pain to change though.
From what I've read, it's only a few hundered rpm difference for 4 degrees, yet still a noticeable change.
I'm using an old design....a Crane Fireball cam. A number of old-timers have told me that my cam works better advanced 4 degrees. I've never tried it due to all the elbow-grease needed to get to the timing gears and chain for an adjustment to be made.
I'd put it in "straight up" if I hadn't tried the cam before, and then change it later if the results wern't what I wanted. It's a pain to change though.
From what I've read, it's only a few hundered rpm difference for 4 degrees, yet still a noticeable change.
I'm using an old design....a Crane Fireball cam. A number of old-timers have told me that my cam works better advanced 4 degrees. I've never tried it due to all the elbow-grease needed to get to the timing gears and chain for an adjustment to be made.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
The problem with changing timing gear settings after motor is installed is the oil pan gasket runs under timing cover. I run a windsge tray as well so there's gasket,windsge tray, gasket, pan all
in one. If I did replace I would probably only replace just the one top gasket section just under the timing chain as the bottom one would be wedged under tray. Real pain. This build instead of oil pan bolts I installed studs to make it much easier to line everything up.
On another note I was thinking about this morning is I think I should probably rum another at least 1/2 bottle of zinc oil additive as I'm running 9 qts in this industrial pan. Sound like a good idea.
I'll be doing this today finishing timing chain and installing motor. One last part I have on order is a distributor rotor for my big style msd cap conversion. I had a really hard time finding one so the parts guy ordered everything they can get that could be a possible match. It should be in today if not it won't stop me I'll just go with my small style cap....
Not gonna help that it snowed last nite either which we rarely get but only about a inch.
in one. If I did replace I would probably only replace just the one top gasket section just under the timing chain as the bottom one would be wedged under tray. Real pain. This build instead of oil pan bolts I installed studs to make it much easier to line everything up.
On another note I was thinking about this morning is I think I should probably rum another at least 1/2 bottle of zinc oil additive as I'm running 9 qts in this industrial pan. Sound like a good idea.
I'll be doing this today finishing timing chain and installing motor. One last part I have on order is a distributor rotor for my big style msd cap conversion. I had a really hard time finding one so the parts guy ordered everything they can get that could be a possible match. It should be in today if not it won't stop me I'll just go with my small style cap....
Not gonna help that it snowed last nite either which we rarely get but only about a inch.