flathead water pump question
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Shiner, Texas
flathead water pump question
Hello all,
My 51 f-5 is needing a water pump... I'll change them both probably. Anyway, we determined that it has the truck water pumps with the narrow (car belt ) pulleys. I need to keep this setup, as my alternator conversion uses the narrow belt. Here are my questions:
(1) Do the sheaves (pulleys) just push on and off with a puller?... looking at the pump, I can not determine how the pulley attaches to the water pump shaft. I dont have a new one to look at yet, but they seem to come with the pulleys attached.
(2) I am a little (a lot) concerned about getting the bolt out that is inside the water inlet... it's been in there forever and the engine is in the truck... if it shears or breaks, I wont have good access to drill it out without a major headache. I have been spraying it (them) with PB, but any other tips would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
My 51 f-5 is needing a water pump... I'll change them both probably. Anyway, we determined that it has the truck water pumps with the narrow (car belt ) pulleys. I need to keep this setup, as my alternator conversion uses the narrow belt. Here are my questions:
(1) Do the sheaves (pulleys) just push on and off with a puller?... looking at the pump, I can not determine how the pulley attaches to the water pump shaft. I dont have a new one to look at yet, but they seem to come with the pulleys attached.
(2) I am a little (a lot) concerned about getting the bolt out that is inside the water inlet... it's been in there forever and the engine is in the truck... if it shears or breaks, I wont have good access to drill it out without a major headache. I have been spraying it (them) with PB, but any other tips would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,777
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
The pulleys are pressed on the shaft. They can be removed with a puller or press, but they break easily so you need to use a puller that can reach around to the shank. Avoid pressure on the outer parts of the pulley.
If the system has had coolant in it the chances are good the bolt will come out ok. IMO.
Use a good 6 point socket and keep even, steady pressure on it.
If the system has had coolant in it the chances are good the bolt will come out ok. IMO.
Use a good 6 point socket and keep even, steady pressure on it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,298
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
The best way to remove the sheaves is to heat the hub with a propane torch. It doesn't take a lot of heat until it will simply slide off/on. Make careful note of how far they sit in on the shaft before you take them off!
Even using a great deal of care (but no heat), I broke one cast iron one with a puller, and bent a sheet metal one. Honestly, you might want to just buy new ones to have on hand, they are available and cheap.
Even using a great deal of care (but no heat), I broke one cast iron one with a puller, and bent a sheet metal one. Honestly, you might want to just buy new ones to have on hand, they are available and cheap.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington Delaware
I am with Ross and Mtflat. I am in the middle of rebuilding a water pump and IMO it not worth the trouble. I got it apart,...broke the pulley,...had a machinist buddy make me a custom pully puller to do the other one. Pullys are $15+/- ( they are usually cast and break eazy ).The bolt inside the inlets was not a problem for either of mine. PB blaster or such and they come out easy. New pumps are $95 +/-,
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,298
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
The problem Old58 and I have is, we have Hybrid V8's; need the truck water pumps for the mounting pads (at least on a '48-52) but the car-style narrow belt pulleys. So any time I need new pumps, I have to swap pulleys. I don't rebuild the pumps themselves, tho, I run down to NAPA.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,887
Likes: 3,129
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I haven't torn apart a waterpump but don't you have to worry about the snap ring behind the pulley? I was pretty sure someone told me you had to remove that first before pressing off the pulley and if using a rebuild kit the new snap ring is different and won't allow you to remove it once it's installed.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington Delaware
I think the snap ring #8576 needs to be removed before the shaft/bearing assembly can be pressed out the front of the pump housing. The old snap ring has the tips/ears that extend up above the notch there in the front of the housing. The new one in my kit is a new style snap ring and it would be next to impossible to get at once installed .....but its not like the old snap ring is a piece of cake to get at with the pulley on. Most disassembly instuctions I have read start with.... "using a SUITABLE puller,remove the pulley" but most rebuilders stress to keep the old snap ring and reuse.
The new kits include everything but the housing and pulley.
The new kits include everything but the housing and pulley.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 59
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From: Shiner, Texas
Getting set to change the pumps. Since I have to change the pulleys out and they seem to break easily, I thought it might be handy to have a spare pulley but I cant find them available anywhere. Speedway doesn't have them, Anyone know where I can buy them?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 180
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From: St. Louis
I've only changed one of these water pumps. The bolt inside housing came right out for me. Some of this may sound fundamental but be sure to use a 6 point socket. I know this may sound difficult but if you can get a torch in there a little heat goes a long way. If you can heat it let it cool and heat it again. If you cant get a torch in there, buy yourself a cheap 6 point socket heat it up red hot and use pliers to hold it on the bolt head and just hold it there until it cools. You may try doing this a couple of times. Like I said a little heat goes a long way and heating, cooling and heating again can sometimes do the trick. If you do use a torch BE SAFE!
When you reassemble use a little Never Seize. If that pump ever needs to be changed again you will be glad you did.
When you reassemble use a little Never Seize. If that pump ever needs to be changed again you will be glad you did.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Alvin, Texas 77511
They do make the water pumps for a flathead with the smaller pulleys. I have seen them on line I think in my dennis carpenter parts book. The narrow belt water pump is # EAB-8501-N for $ 80.00 the Rh one and # EAB-8502-N for the LH one with the gaskets included. Or you can get both for $ 150.00 # EAB-8501-PR. They take a 3/8 belt.Their phone number is 800-476-9653.
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