New here but have a question, I have a 05 250 and today it got hot fast. I got if and cooled down quickly but I have oil in my coolant resivor (gray goo) and no loss of fluids. My oil seems to be uncontaminaited. I would appreciate any input someone may have on this before I take it to a mechanic and get robbed due to my lack of knowlege of troubleshooting a diesel. I am thinking a turbo cooling problem.

 

Your oil cooler took a crap and needs to be replaced,don't drive the truck.

 

Should take you a full day of labor but you can swap it out yourself and save a few $1000

 

Is that so!! Where would be a good place to start to find the instructions for such a project?

 

Well it's a project, I did mine about a week ago. I got all the info on how to do it right off this site. I've got a lot of it in file format email me and I'll send it over.

Superbikecj@gmail.com

 

And here is a link to pictures of the job, and pictures of parts # in the packages.

http://newyorkmustangs.com/forums/ro...750#post244750

 

Why it double posted not sure, sorry.

 

wow that looks time consuming but not too complicated. I didnt read the story behind it but it looks like he put a strait pipe on that y pipe, is that a egr delete?? How does that work, my egr went out about a year ago and it was costly. Does bypassing that make a good or bad difference and do you know if it endangers the engine? What a great link, thank you.

 

Yes, that was a total EGR delete/oil cooler system repair. Plus he added the coolant filter at that time. Depending on where you live, you need to be sure your state doesn't inspect or test for the EGR system. Also, with a delete, you will need a tuner to deal with the EGR system being gone.

If you want to read a complete history of the EGR system, which covers years, read this link:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...tructions.html

 

The hardest part of the job isn't replacing the oil cooler itself. If the contamination has progressed to the point where it is of a mud like consistency as described by the OP, it will likely require EVERYTHING that coolant passes through either replaced or flushed out. Back when these trucks came in while under warranty, if removing the lower rad hose revealed a very thick goo like consistency exiting, I wouldn't even bother wasting any more time trying to dig further without getting FoMoCo's blessing to replace the long block, rad, heater core, EGR cooler, degas bottle and ALL rubber coolant hoses.

I realize that taking this approach on your dime is a very expensive proposition, but the proper thing to do that would be most cost effective is to remove the rad, heater core and engine block and heads to have sent out and flushed. Replace ALL rubber hoses that coolant passes through because the oil contamination will expand the rubber to the point where it no longer seals. You can try flushing and flushing and flushing the system as much as possible but you will NEVER remove all residual coolant/oil mixture that has baked onto the cylinder walls. About the best flush you can do possible is with the Simple Green chemical that Ford instructs us to do in a TSB that was released to address this issue awhile back.

 

Thanks for the info man. This is bumming me out... Expensive, wife will not be pleased

 

im with M-chan.
cp wise you get options, but its your dime.
other option is all new hoses, radiator, heater core, all cooling system hose, t-stat, water pump, possibely front cover, degas bottle and cap.
then lot of time flushing the engine.

 

thanks cheezit, you obviously do this for a living and I am but a dumb M1A1 tanker in the Marine Corps, I would never say there is nothing that I cant do. Yet, would you recommend I take this to a person such as yourself to get this done right?

 

its not a hard job to do its just labor intensive. lots of guys here have been able to get threw this type of thing.
I can only think of one tool that you wold need and thats to remove the cooler lines from the radiator. that tool is $20. or so.

 

If this were my own truck, I would've ripped the heater out, yanked the cab off the frame, and yanked the engine, sent the rad and heater core as well as the engine completely disassembled in pieces, and sent it all out to be hot-tanked and back together with all new rubber hoses (as well as new oil cooler of course). I don't care how good of a job anyone is capable of doing flushing the cooling system out, NO ONE will ever be able to clean all the gunk out without some residual oil reappearing after a few miles of driving. Even trying to flush the cooling systems out of the '96 to '99 Taurus 3.0L engines was almost impossible enough as it was when they had their infamous "brown coolant" issues, let alone one of these engines with this problem.