I just received my IH belowed up pipes and started the dismantle for the install of the new up pipes.

Turbo came off really easy including the up pipe collector to turbo union. Once I got the turbo off I could see a big hole blown in the silver firewall liner right above the collector. The whole left rear of the engine bay is coated with black soot.

I'm sort of tempted to re-install the turbo with the IH up pipe collector already attached and tighted up. Then install each of the bellowed up pipes from under neath the vehicle and torque up the the bolts using a long extension bar.

Anyone tried this method? It means you can guarantee the turbo-collector union is properly positioned - and the flex in bellowed up pipes should allow you to join each up pipe between the collector and manifold OK.

Picks to follow of the competed 'rebuild' which has included:
- RR Aramid boot kit + plenium inserts;
- AIH delete with boost gauge barb;
- AFE 6637 and home made heat shield;
- HPX;
- Banks big head waste gate controller (on stock 38P turbo);
- EBPV delete pedestal;
- EBPV delete turbo outlet;
- fitment of fuel pressure, coolant temp, trans oil temp, engine oil temp, EGT, and boost sender units (I'll count the fitment of the gauge units in the cab upgrades).

 

If you can do that it sounds good.I have the b-pipes as well.They do give a little but not as much as you think when you start to bolt them up and get them in place.We had to leave everything loose and get all the bolts started and then go back and tighten everything up.
Some of the others that have done several sets may have a good way to install but that was our first time and YES they wanted to fight us the whole way.....Good luck

 

I'm tackling this project in a week or so. I am subscribing! Thanks

 

The passenger side bolts at the baby's butt are a pain to get tightened with the turbo in place and the downpipe in the way. I torqued the passenger side uppipe bolts to the baby's butt and installed it as assembly, leaving the bolts loosely installed at the exhaust manifold. I then installed the driver's side uppipe in the same manner, except torquing the remaining bolts after the turbo is installed. This allows plenty of movement to get the flange aligned correctly. An inspection mirror is a plus in verifying the connection. Hope all this makes sense.

 

I just purchased a spare set of up-pipes and have been looking at them. With the donut in place and the flange tightened can the up-pipe still "slide" in and out?

 

With OEM pipes and the donuts, the pipe shouldn't be able to slide when the flange is tight. My description of the install applies to the IH bellowed uppipes. With the OEM, you have to leave the passenger side flange loose in order to align the baby's butt to the turbo. Some remove the plastic inner fender to better access that side. I frown upon the OEM version as I have had the pipes erode inside the donuts within 1 1/2 yrs of its installation. I went with the IH bellowed version to eliminate that problem.

 

Thanks for comments.
I had about 3 hours quality time on the truck this morning. I've taken some photos which I'll upload when I've finished. I'm pretty happy as I've got the IH up pipes fitted and tightened up really good, also the turbo back on an I'm 99% sure the baby's but and the IH collector are correctly lined up as the clamp went on and I could do the nut up easily. Observations and what worked for me so far:

1) room is tight, there is no way to fit the turbo and up pipe collector pre-assembed;
2) I could fit the right side up-pipe and collector pre-assembled, then got the up pipe to manifold bolts done up loosely;
3) I then fitted the left side up pipe, bolted union to collector loosely, then manifold bolts loosely, then fully tightened the up-pile to collector bolts.
4) Next was to put turbo on pedestal - no bolts - found that the turbo wanted to tip over - so attached the turbo to the exhaust with the donut clamp. This allowed the turbo to move around a bit;
5) with the movement of the turbo and the movement of the up-pipe collector, I was able to wrestle with both until the collector and turbo engaged. At this point I used a tip that I got from this forum - stuff a rag behind the collector to keep the collector engaged with the turbo while I fiddled with the collector-turbo donut clamp and got that fully tighted.
6) I then engaged the turbo hold down bolts;
7) Next was to fully tightened the up-pipe to manifold bolts (13mm claw foot socket is a great way to grab the nut on the top bolt on the RH side). I was also using a 11mm deep well socket on a flexy 3/8 drive to do up the donut clamps. I found that a speed ratchet 10mm wrench was a great way to do up the manifold bolts. The other tool required was a 15mm socket with short extension for turbo hold down bolts.

I'll do the inlet plumbing re-fit tomorrow and post description and pictures.

 

I installed a 4 in exaust at the same time as i changed my up pipes. I was able to install both uppipes assembled to the babbies butt. only problem was I jumped the gun and installed my down pipe before I tightened the up pipes to the manifold so it was a pain to tighten the passenger side but I eventually got it. If some one was planning on changing uppipes and adding exaust it is definantly worth doing at the same time... just dont forget like I did to tighten the bottom bolts before installing the downpipe!!!

 

One further observation.
I completely reassembled everything and started up. I had a massive oil leak running down the back of the engine - ughhh!

Ripped off the inlet spider. Undid the exhaust and baby's-butt clamps, undid the turbo hold down bolts. With the moving around of the turbo I'd pinched the rear O-ring. I had a replacement as I'd got 2 sets of O-rings, one with the EBPV pedestal and another with the IH up-pipes.
Replaced the rear O-ring, this time tightened up the turbo hold down bolts first. The BB clamp went on again without any fuss.

Test started the engine with just the exhaust clamps done up. Checked that oil leak was fixed. All OK.

Stop engine and re-fit the rest of the stuff.

Point is that once the up-pipes are fitted and the turbo is on with the BB clamp and exhaust clamp on, it is possible to start the engine and very carefully check for oil or exhaust leaks and confirm that everything is OK before continuing.

 

Anyone have a set of IH up-pipes they want to sell??