So the instal went surprisingly smooth. I ended up making 1 extra trip under the truck than i should have. When the instructions say "snug" the clamp to manifold bolts... they mean LIGHTLY snug them. You definitely need the play to get that damned dowel pin on the collector to line up. But once it finally does... its easy work.

I decided to leave them unpainted.

I put the same pyro sensor in the new drivers side pipe. Its mounted about 2" closer to the manifold than it was in the old pipe.

At 70 (currently without overdrive) running 2300ish on the tach im floating between 950-1100ish ... only see the high end on a good hill.
I have boost!
Stock tuned pcm. WOT run spooked me the first time. Pressure spiked to 13ish during a shift and the intercooler output boot popped off. Sounded like a shotgun went off under the hood. Limped her into a parking lot and wrastled it back on... both of the clamps on that boot were rust locked. I had to use hose clamps in a pinch... but im not too worried about it for now... the boots are all in rough shape so they will be getting replacements soon anyway.
Further WOT runs are yielding results of the same 13-14 psi range. I think thats pretty good for a second time tired old turbo.

Now i did get ballsy and flipped my idm switch a couple of runs too.
Uhmm. And this is wiTHOut tuning? I was too paranoid to take my eyes off the road/pyro to really pay attention to the boost gauge. But my egt's climbed rapidly to 1350*
It spiked at 1400 for about a second and i got out of it and dropped the idm back to stock.

Is the higher reading due to me mounting it closer to the manifold?
With the leaky stock pipes i maxed out @ 1300*
Arent the new pipes supposed to lower temps?

Or... is it more accurate being closer to the manifold in so far as indicating a problem?

Quiet.
Motorbug no longer makes the rattling i had been complaining about.
It is clear a lot of that was the fresh oil with NO LUCAS . But the old pipes were moving around quite a bit inside the old collector from the wear marks... so i think that plus the extra exhaust noise was contributing to the rattle syndrome.


Exhausted. Bed.

Xtof

 

Yeah for motorbug! Put you some Aero-Kroil on those rusty clamps. I don't understand what you were doing with the IDM. You have a switch that takes it from stock? Tell me about it some when you get some well needed sleep.
Dwayne

 

Sounds like the old 10K mod or early "tuning" but that's for the icp signal???

 

You want some more boost? Disconnect the red line from the wastegate and put the red line on a bolt thread close by...., Just watch your ses light, it may come on because of over boost. I have been getting a little better mileage as long as I keep my foot out of it.

 

I've never seen a pyro mounted in an up-pipe. Most are put in the manifold... But, the numbers should be similar either way.

13-14psi is kinda low and those EGT's are HIGH for a stock truck. A modded IDM or 10k mod do not account for that. I suspect you have a boost leak(s). Even 100% stock, I saw 17-20 psi in the automatic (Excursion). My 'tired' stock turbo had well over 300k on it the last time it ran and could nail 30psi like a boss. 'Wear' on a turbo usually doesn't equal lost boost.

Build yourself a 'boost leak detector' and spray soapy water on all the boot connections and at the spider-to-turbo connection. (you did make sure the oring was in place at that connection, right?)

Costs less than a starbucks!! (sexy hand model not included )

 

Chris, this the same "motorbug" that had the cracked cover-plate? Damn man, that was a fast removal/install of motor.

Got nuth'n to offer to high egt/low boost, cuz i have the "low boost' syndrome as well.

 

Yes thats the one. But mine was set up as a 10k/5k mod with a 3 way switch.
Im still learning exactly what it does and how.

I already have a BLD made up... i just havent tested yet.
Also need to test my boost gauge.
Wastegate is already pulled, redline plugged onto the ic boot clamp bolt.
Hopefully i can get a chance to mess with it today.

Xtof

 

It changes the reference voltage of the ICP sensor so that the PCM sees less ICP than is actually there and increases the IPR duty cycle.

I agree that if you have the WG disabled then 13psi is very low, should be closer to 18-20 on a stock motor.

Do you have anything to view live data? You could look at Manifold Gauge pressure as a comparison to your boost gauge.

 

If a bad MAP sensor is found, would that show low boost on a gauge..via a defueling mode of some sort? Taking in consideration, that thers no boost leak detected.

 

I was just saying that it would be another reference to compare the boost gauge against.

If MAP was bad, you would likely get a no boost detected code, or more troubleshooting would be required because it could effect what actual boost is in certain situations.

I had a pin hole leak in my boost gauge line, that above 15psi the gauge would stop moving, but MAP showed boost going up to my regulator setpoint of 19-21psi so I looked into the gauge and found a small hole near the pillar.

 

So my boost leak test has me puzzled.
I have no leaks externally that i can detect except a very small leak in my intercooler.
But i seem to have airflow through the engine?
I can dial my regulator up to about 25psi before the motor starts trying to turn over.
Im thinking i need to do compression and cylinder contribution tests.
With no boost leaks im actually now seeing 5-7 psi WOT from 0-50mph. No overdrive 4.10rearend empty dually. Flat grade.
The boost gauge was reading high during my leak test at first... but it leveled out and matched the regulator pressure as i dialed it up. At 25 it read 25.

It still feels and sounds better than it has since i got it... and since i have known the truck (i met motorbug for the first time back in 2005)

Xtof

 

No exhaust leaks, no boost leaks, and no boost? Sorry.... this is sounding more and more like tired turbo or a profound lack of fuel. Big coal? Turbo. Big nothing? Fuel.

But I'm just comparing this to what I've learned, not what I've experienced.

 

That thing must be a real turd with those #'s.

Any idea what your fuel pressure is?

If it still has 'power' and doesn't fall on its face - I think you're still looking for a boost leak. A drive-pressure leak that big you'd surely be able to hear...

Yes, you will 'leak' air from this type of boost leak detector thru the engine via CCV and open intake valves. I turn my regulator down to 15psi or so for the test...

Turbos don't usually loose boost - the journal bearings wear out and they leak oil eventually, or fail catastrophically. I assume you looked at the wheels when it was out and there were no missing blades or obvious gunk built up in there - right?

Are you sure you trust the boost gauge? Did ya check for leaks in the boost gauge line?

If you had a significant enough compression/cylinder contribution issue you'd know without a test. I don't wanna talk about how I know that....