So I sit here with a beer, scratched and greasy arms, but my truck has bellowed up pipes.

A little intro... I bought this 2000 crew cab because my 95 extended cab didn't have enough room for the family. Right away I noticed the engine is a lot noisier than my older truck. It's 6 speed so I figured the noise was related to the big hole in the trans tunnel for the shifter that the old auto didn't have. As time went on, and the more I read, it seems that the '00 version had many sources of noise.

I started with the hutch mod and added a pre pump filter. I think this did help, but still pretty noisy for the first few kms (miles) each day.

I was happy with this, added some gauges, 3in1 glowshift with egt needle and boost/temp in the digital window. Because it's a manual trans, I opted to use the temp sender for water temp. I actually used one of the coolant ports on the bottom of the block near the oil pan just to have a different sensor location. I also installed a fuel pressure gauge, electronic sender in the post filter port.

With good fuel pressure, I threw in a TS 6pos chip (canned tunes). Wow what a difference. Towing the trailer was no longer a chore, but now I had some egt problems and compressor surge while climbing hills.

Frustrated that this thing is still noisy compared to my 95, I made a big order from riff raff diesel last week. Today the turbo came out and got a new billet wheel and the up-pipes were changed out for the bellowed version. Darkness, hunger and children made me shut down operations today, but tomorrow I'll finish putting things back together. The other tricks going in will be the frx, hpx, and new intercooler boots.

If I get it all back together and it's still noisier than the older truck, and shows any compressor surge I'm probably just going to light it on fire lol.

Since the motor is completely apart on the top side, I'm thinking I should do some other stuff... My ebpv rod was coated in black goo but not visibly leaking,although it's definitely wet in the valley. If anyone read this far... I wonder if I should rebuild the pedestal? Or just plug the galleries and leave the ebpv disconnected?

 

Did the pedestal delete myself, but I don't drive my truck much in the winter. Where are u located. If the weather in winter isn't too cold I would delete or plug it. While in there don't forget to insulate the fuel line clamp on the pass side. Let us know how it all turns out. Good luck

 

Copy the tips, thanks.

I'm in Victoria BC Canada, pretty much the tropics of the North. Rarely below freezing so I'll probably go ahead and delete the ebpv.

 

If you want to delete the EBPV, I would suggest replacing the pedestal. If you do go this route, I would also suggest you keep the actuator plugged in and just
wrap up the end to protect it. I bought the EBP Pedestal Actuator Isolator Pigtail which is a fancy resister to fool the computer to thinking the actuator is plugged in but it has been throwing codes lately. I am putting my actuator back on since I never had any issues with it before.

Garrett Non-EBPV/ Blank Pedestal 99.5-03 7.3L Ford

Congrats on the rest of your work, been there done that and it isn't the most fun job out there. :-)

 

Thanks for the link. I looked at that pedestal, couldn't commit, now regretting it.

I think I'll just reuse mine, replace o-rings and retourqe it and hope for the best.

Im reading more about the bellowed pipes and it seems some have experienced leaks because the bolts were too long in to the flange. Is this an issue with the riff raff set? I'm still at the point I could pop them (reluctantly!) out and shorten those bolts. Might do that first thing tomorrow....

 

The issues with the Dorman uppies have been addressed.

 

As far as the RiffRaff parts, no I had no issues with the bolts being too long.

 

That is the Dorman ones that have had so many issues. If you got the International ones you are good

 

Installing new cac boots, I'd also go with new T champs and insert plenums

 

Okay I won't pull them apart.

Definitely got the plenum inserts as well with the boot set. I was going to reuse the stock clamps for the large hoses, and try to source a better clamp for the plenum/spider boots.

Thanks for the info

 

Got out there for a couple hours in the sun this afternoon and made good progress. The frx was a pleasure... Lol. There wasnt enough clearance beside the bowl to get a proper wrench on the mounting bolts. I found my fuel supply line in the way and loosening the bowl mounts made little difference because that line moved with the bowl. I ended up weasling a small t25 bit in the head of the bolt and turning that with a 1/4" wrench. Then I was cleaning up some tools and realized I didn't even put the spring and plunger in! Back apart and even harder to put back together with spring tension on everything. Ahhh well, the rest of it was straight forward and I pressurized it all and didn't find any leaks. My hose routing might get me some flack, I ended up going over the top to the pass side fitting, and up along the valve cover to the rear drivers side fitting. I'm happy with it after reinstalling the turbo, everything clears and I can verify it's not rubbing anything.

Re-installing the turbo!! Geez... My first time, I will forever refer to the collector clamp at the rear as the "b*tch clamp". It gave me lots of grief. I wasn't confident the collector seated to the turbo properly for the first 30 minutes of fighting it, but in the end I think it seated properly.

Oh, the pedestal... I had at least 10 years worth of crud in the valley, and pools of oil. As soon as I removed the pedestal it was obvious that the o-rings were failing. They were hard as rock and some of it stuck to the mating surface. I cleaned it all up and decided that I'll leave the ebpv in place for now.

Did you know the riff Raff turbo install kit comes with 4 o-rings? I didn't, lol, even tho I bought it and it was on my workbench. I called Ford this morning to source another set for the bottom of the pedestal, and paid $7 each for them, then realized I now have 2 spares.

Hpx was simple, torqued the manifold/up-pipe bolts, just working on cleaning up the cac tubes and I'll get those in tomorrow and hopefully be driving it again. Been lots of fun, the last time I got this dirty in my trucks was replacing glow plugs in my obs.

Now to search cleaning that insulation crap off my hot side pipe!

I'll add photos to this eventually

 

Got the last of it all put together today, just in time for a series of storms to pound the island.

I noticed immediately the sound difference when I started the truck. It sounds so much quieter with a smoother idle. It burped a few times at first because I'm sure there was a bit of air introduced.




This angle shows all the work. Frx, hpx, billet wheel and bellowed up pipes

The only leak I located after a few minutes of idle was my damned fuel pressure sender. Full disclosure here, I didn't know any better about the use of Teflon tape on our fuel system. I read a lot of bad things so while I was in there I pulled my sender, cleaned all Teflon and resealed with the leftovers from the frx kit. The Teflon was in bad shape, only 2 months old but it was gooey and coming apart.



Friends don't let friends do Teflon! It was a recipe for disaster. I'm hoping I caught it all.


I gave up trying to get the glue off the i/c tube. I pulled the foil but holy crop what a pain. Drill with wire wheel did okay, but I just gave up after a while. (anyone ever test that insulation for asbestos? I didn't use a respirator..) Time for a good degrease and clean now.





The latest photo of the truck (from the last camping trip)

 

What did you torque the collector (baby's butt) bolts to? That recommended 21 with the marred threads seems a little light to me.

 

no leaks from hpop?