nozzles, chips, and HP
Nozzles alone won't change the total volume of fuel the injectors can flow. All they change is the amount of time the fuel is available to flow. In other words, don't expect nozzles alone to give you a 75 hp boost, because they won't. Also, HP numbers don't stack. Think of it in terms of the laws of diminishing returns.
A better option is to change injectors to those that can flow a larger volume of fuel, and match the nozzle size to your application. Then adjust the tuning to maximize the efficiency of those new injectors.
Tell us your current mods on the truck, and also tell us your power goals. We can tell you what you need to get there reliably.
A better option is to change injectors to those that can flow a larger volume of fuel, and match the nozzle size to your application. Then adjust the tuning to maximize the efficiency of those new injectors.
Tell us your current mods on the truck, and also tell us your power goals. We can tell you what you need to get there reliably.
Thanks Curtis. Really appreciate your help with this. My truck is an 01 F-350, FASS 150 fuel system, 4" exhaust, ATS port shroud, K&N air filter, regulated fuel return with fuel bowl delete, the transmission has a valve body kit and springs. Since I four wheel I do not want to loose any reliability. I want to maximize the potential horsepower that the engine and transmission can safely handle. In other words, I do not plan on any transmission mods (besides what I already have), an oversized turbo, or beefed up internals on the engine block. I believe that the max I can safely do is around 450 hp (flywheel) or a little less.
Ron W.
Ron W.
To be honest, doing anything above stock injectors will sooner or later require additional supporting mods, especially to the transmission. Even stock injectors with a high HP tune play havoc on the torque converter. It can last for a while if you take care of it, but it's still a crap shoot sometimes.
At the power levels you're wanting to attain, you'll need some transmission work and a bigger turbo. In addition, bigger nozzles on stock injectors won't get you anywhere close to that power level.
Realistically, if you aren't wanting to swap out turbos or do additional work on the transmission, you're best bet is to stick with Stage I's (160cc injectors with stock nozzles). Anything more than that and you'll be looking at a new transmission soon, as well as a new turbo. If I were in your position, I wouldn't waste time putting bigger nozzles on stock injectors. The split shots will still use more oil than single shot Stage I's. At least with Stage I's your HPOP will be happy, you'll have good pressures, and you'll get more out of them.
At the power levels you're wanting to attain, you'll need some transmission work and a bigger turbo. In addition, bigger nozzles on stock injectors won't get you anywhere close to that power level.
Realistically, if you aren't wanting to swap out turbos or do additional work on the transmission, you're best bet is to stick with Stage I's (160cc injectors with stock nozzles). Anything more than that and you'll be looking at a new transmission soon, as well as a new turbo. If I were in your position, I wouldn't waste time putting bigger nozzles on stock injectors. The split shots will still use more oil than single shot Stage I's. At least with Stage I's your HPOP will be happy, you'll have good pressures, and you'll get more out of them.
What type of tranny work would I be looking at? Just a better torque converter or more? When shops claim 75 or 100 hp on injectors or injector nozzles on stock injectors, what exactly are they talking about?
Ron W.
Ron W.
Stage 2s & a van turbo will get you there. Stage 1s & stock turbo will get you 400ish flywheel HP, and I would HIGHLY encourage a 1.0 exh housing or van turbo even with stage 1s. My personal opinion is that even hot tunes on stock sticks is too much for the stock turbo. If I was keeping stock sticks, I'd go with a 1.0 housing for sure.
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Like Curtis said, it's a crap shoot even running tunes with the trans. Mine shouldn't be living now, neither should my engine according to what "they" say, but it is what it is. Knocking on wood......
The only way to know if your trans will hold up is to go for it and see what happens, unfortunately. I've done everything I could to mine, and it seems to be working. Full syn fluid, 6.0L cooler, and TransGo Tugger mods. Beyond that, it will take a full HD rebuild to stand up to hot tunes/sticks.
The only way to know if your trans will hold up is to go for it and see what happens, unfortunately. I've done everything I could to mine, and it seems to be working. Full syn fluid, 6.0L cooler, and TransGo Tugger mods. Beyond that, it will take a full HD rebuild to stand up to hot tunes/sticks.
1.0 housing is for the exhaust side of the turbo. ATS does make one, but the "ATS Ported Housing" is for the compressor side of the turbo for surge control.
The torque converter is the weak link in the transmission. It simply doesn't like power. For stock power levels, it's perfectly fine. Add a chip, injectors, etc... and it's a crap shoot.
Just with stock injectors, I fried my TC at just over 90K miles. It was my fault though, too many boosted 4x4 launches will take it out.
Which shop are you looking at? Most reputable shops list injectors as "Stage I, Stage II, Hybrids, B-Codes, etc". Plus they'll list cc's (such as 160cc, 180cc 238cc, 250cc, 300cc, 400cc, etc), and they'll give nozzle sizes (such as 30%, 100%, 200%, etc).
If a shop simply has an injector, and only tells you "75hp injectors", run away as fast as you can. Seriously. People who know how to build injectors will specify cc's and nozzle size. If they don't, DO NOT BUY!!!!!
High quality shops will also provide flow sheets to show you how closely matched a set of injectors are.
So yeah, tell us which shop you are looking at for injectors. We know the good ones, and we know the places to stay away from.
The turbine housing is different. If you're running bigger injectors (ie more fuel), the stock .84 exhaust housing instantly becomes too small. You'll see high EGT's, high backpressure, and a turbo that hates life. Some folks have gone with a 1.0 or even a 1.15 exhaust housing on the stock turbo when running high hp tunes or even some mild injectors (like Stage I's or II's) to keep the turbo alive.
An aftermarket turbo like a Garrett GTP38R is a better choice, but it's more expensive. Those who are modding on a budget choose to modify the stock turbo to save money, while still getting decent performance.
Good point on the TC. I always forget about that, and I toyed with the idea of changing mine. I decided to leave it and gamble. They're pretty expensive unless you get a good deal on a 6.0/6.4 TC and adapt it to fit. I figured for the ~$1000 I'd spend on a TC, I'll just save it and put that towards 1/4 the price of a BTS when it's time.


