I have had a local mechanic and NTB look at this and nobody can fix it.It started with a right rear getting hot and skidding while appling brakes.I switch the RR drum to the LR drum and the problem followed to the LR.So I went and purchase a new drum.It solved the problem of the skidding but the LR drum is still getting red hot.I have notice two morning in a row the first time I drive it it does not get hot but thru out the day everytime I drive it it gets hot.I can jack up the rear and it spins freely.Any help would be awesome!!

 

WE would need for info on your ride here. F150, F250, F350? what axle do you have?

Makes me wonder if the wheel bearing is bad and allowing the axle shaft to move, This will make the drum **** at a angle and drag while the weight of the truck is on the tires, but once you jack it up and take all that weight off it the axle shaft sits normal and every thing looks fine. Look at your drum and see if you can see some odd looking ware patterns. I am not sure but maybe even a crosshatch looking pattern might be there. This would also make the bearings run hot and help heat up the drum as well.

Check your pumpkin oil level .. If its low watch when you fill it! If the bearing is bad the seal will be too, with that kind of heat there the seal might be bad no matter what? Oil might leak out the axle tube.

Try to check that stuff out and post with what you find and, more info on your truck there.

 

One way to check internal drum wear is to use blueing (or a black magic marker) to coat the drum surface and then take it for a drive. Anything unusual will show up. Might also be you pad piston is not fully retracting on one side or going into a bind.

 

If I went RR to LR on the drum and the problem went with the drum. How can it be in the wheel bearing?It is an F250 with a full floating rear end and it takes 12X3 brakes.

 

I have a post on here as rear brakes.I went and replaced both drums and went thru the whole brakes on the rear end.I drove the car for about 10 miles and check the temp and both was reading 62 degrees.I drove the F250 home and the RR was red hot again.Could this be the RABS sensor?How do I test it?Can I run this uplug?Any help would be awesome.I have been on this for 3 weeks.Everything is brand new except the wheel cylinders.It can not be it because the problem went from RR to LR after switching the drums.

 

Long shot but if the part circled in the diagram, if installed rotated 180 from correct orientation (easily overlooked as IIRC the part is very similar either orientation) it will/does tend to make the shoes drag after being applied causing the drum/s to get smoke'n hot fast.

Not sure if it pertains to your problem at this point, issue following drum makes it unlikely but worth a quick look see anyway.

 

i had the same thing happen decades ago .
1 ) if the wheel bearings are over tightened on the full floating axles
2 ) if they are accidentally put on backwards
check those 2 things , it has nothing to do with the sensor on the axle . problem is mechanical !!

 

have you replaced all the hold down and return springs also at this point it wouldn't hurt to change those old Wheel cylinders Btw if you over heat those drums to red hot ur gonna destroy the Scot-Seal and that little O-ring where the axle mounts to hub and possiblely damage inner and outer wheel bearings.

 

Yes all the springs and adjuster were replaced.