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well i did it this time. was replacing rocker panel. cut out old one and the dorway got wider. supported every thing wrong place. have rocker panel back in and floor patched with new cab mount. the inside gap on the door to panel is 3/16 at front and 1/2 at back havent tacked the pillar back on. have to rase door back to fit outside alignment prob because not tacked together. o great body man in sky what do i need to check first.
Yes I know that sinking feeling ! Years ago I had a custom van (Ford) and thought I'd flare the rear fenders, anyhow I cut the outter & inner fender and was welding in a strip of steel between the two with Dads oxy acetylene , got about a third of the way around and then I heard a dull thud, ***** ! the side of the van had popped in ! ( this is when I found out what heat does to panel steel !!!)
Then in my panic I thought I'd knock the panel out with a piece of 2x4.....
aw cr*p ! then I had the imprint of a 2x4 in the panel as well !
Still ,you live & learn
Good luck, Steve.
Take two pieces of angle iron 2/3" and attach to inside edge of front/rear door jam about 4/6"up from bottom- place eyebolt in each piece pointing towards the other - place a turnbuckle between the eyebolts attached with 1/4" cable.
Take measurements from other door and from as many folks as you can beg them from - average measurements and tighten turnbuckle to size.
TACK (I SAID TACK) weld and check fit - repeat all above as necessary until you feel safe then weld it up.
NOTE: If this doesn't work it's not my fault cause thats how I fixed the back doors of my Panel Truck - Batteries Not Included
thanks for the reply's. i can pull it back with my old fence stretcher. but the gap between door and rocker is that angle normal. or will that throw off front fenders. i went to library an old body book said to measure from top of rear rocker to bottom of windshield where body changes then to top wind shield before curve starts. that still don't address gap. can someone look at theirs and see if gap is even. on inside lower door pannel and rocker and could i get a measurement of distance between front cab mount bolts from center of bolts. and this is on a 55 f100. that would help me alot
If everything is still loose..and the door can move in the opening, try putting a couple of large "c" type vise-grips in the window channel and inside the cab/raingutter area to bring the door into alignment..sometimes it helps to 'tack' the door to the jamb with a couple of small strips of sheetmetal. I found using sheetmetal screws came in handy when fitting all those different pieces together,.. then I found some clecos...
Is the cab off the frame? If so, try removing the trans cover, crawl inside and do a diagonal/cross measurement to check for square,..the #'s should match,.. if it's out..find out why before doing any more welding. What measurements were you looking for?
There is a gap between the door and rocker..(1/2" approx), But..the rocker should be parallel with the bottom of the door..looking at it from the side.
Here are a couple of quick#'s from my 55..33 3/4" between both door jambs, where the top of the rocker meets the floor. Approx 55"-54 3/4"..between both front cab mount bolt centers, left and right,your #'s may vary.. when I got finished putting my floor in,..I sat the cab back on the frame..then centered the cab on the frame, marked it from below thru the frame wings with a markie, then drilled it. If the pillars are out of square with the door, then you may have pushed the cowl forward, and as you already guessed, your fenders will project that much more forward..making alignment between both front fenders and the hood near impossable. Hope you have some luck and can salvage this. It can be done..you may just have to remove everything you installed so far. Take a long look at things..LEAVE THE DOORS ON..if you can,.. verify door gaps,square,level..and slowly tack things in ,.checking for square often and from different points across the floor.
Good Luck!