10 PSI @ FPR?!?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
Originally Posted by bad12jr
I've gotta figure a price total on what mine cost but i think it was around $550 or so total for pump filters and all.
Originally Posted by fordpride
even if i shim mine the pressure will not come up
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
You took off the two lines that connect at the very front on the threaded fittings? What's the plunger? I guess the only spring is the one where you put the BB. And how did you force the air into the little holes? Lots of questions but I'd like to try and see if it helps.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
The Fuel pump is what causes the pressure in the first place . The return line blocked ,should only raise the pressure ...Unless your system was full of air ......
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
So other than my reading of 10 psi(which I thought wouldnt even run our engines) how would I diagnose a bad fuel pump? Feels like it's losing more and more power from 15-1800 rpms and down. Runs pretty well at 2k and higher but sure has gotten wimpy at low end. And the mileage is killin my wallet...
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
So other than my reading of 10 psi(which I thought wouldnt even run our engines) how would I diagnose a bad fuel pump? Feels like it's losing more and more power from 15-1800 rpms and down. Runs pretty well at 2k and higher but sure has gotten wimpy at low end. And the mileage is killin my wallet...
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15,505
Likes: 18
From: Livoina,La
my fuel pressure would not even read on a gauge until i blew out the return systen on the FPR but mine is also still weak on bottom end could the block return have put a hurting on my fuel pump
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15,505
Likes: 18
From: Livoina,La
You took off the two lines that connect at the very front on the threaded fittings? Yes What's the plunger? on the end of the spring I guess the only spring is the one where you put the BB. correct And how did you force the air into the little holes? air blower with a small rubber end Lots of questions but I'd like to try and see if it helps.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
thought id chime in - i just picked up a 97 7.3 that i checked today, it has 15psi at idle and bearly 20 at wot. i tried two diffrent gauges, my snap on and my brothers macto -
i have long crank times and poor throttle responce, im going to check / clean the regulator and lines tomorrow and install a new filter. is there anything else i should check before condemming the fuel pump ?
i have long crank times and poor throttle responce, im going to check / clean the regulator and lines tomorrow and install a new filter. is there anything else i should check before condemming the fuel pump ?
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
thought i should post up what my fix was - cuz i hate finding threads unfinished
i removed the fpr and the spring and plunger were fine. then i looked into the bore with a mirror and flashlight. there were two very small chunks of hard plastic, wedging the fpr open. it has happened twice sence. i should also add that the fuel filter housing was full of crap when i installed the new filter. the heater had also been removed, but the tube was damaged. i think that is where the plastic came from
without any shimming mine runs 50-55 psi
i removed the fpr and the spring and plunger were fine. then i looked into the bore with a mirror and flashlight. there were two very small chunks of hard plastic, wedging the fpr open. it has happened twice sence. i should also add that the fuel filter housing was full of crap when i installed the new filter. the heater had also been removed, but the tube was damaged. i think that is where the plastic came from
without any shimming mine runs 50-55 psi
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