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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Oil pressure guage reading wrong

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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 07:42 PM
  #1  
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Oil pressure guage reading wrong

So im building a 65 ford with a 12v cummins in it and I have a manual guage in the port by oil filter and idling it reads 60 psi cold start. I have a 65 ford bronco guage cluster in it because I wanted a actuall oil psi guage. I went to parts store and got a straight 6 sending unit for a ford. I have the oil psi sending unit adapted into the port that original cummins unit was in. Ran new wire to unit. And when I start truck guage climbs to a little above 10 psi and stays there it dosnt move with engine rpm either. I know guage is good I tested it. Sending unit is bran new. Sending unit is grounded I can use a test light grounded to sending unit and post has the pulsating light. The little voltage regulator on back of guage cluster has 12 volts to one side but my volt meter won't get a constant reading from the side that is suppose to be 5 ot 6 volts. I would think if that was bad the guages would read of the charts because it would be getting double voltage it should be getting. I have battery ground to frame and a ground from stock front engine mount crossmember to engine block. Should ground sensor ok? I even ran a small ground wire from battery to glove box **** to see if it was body ground issue, but it didn't change anything. I just spent 300$ on a restored guage cluster so i realy want these guages to work correctly. Not sure what to do? Any input would be great thanks!
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 08:12 AM
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First of all, you can't just come on here and tell us that you are swapping a 12 valve into a '65 Ford and then not give of pictures - or better yet, start a build thread.

For your gauge, did you use any sort of thread sealant on the sending unit threads? That can mess up the reading.

The next thing to try would be to set your multi meter to Ohms and see if the resistance of the sending unit changes as the oil pressure changes. If it doesn't, the sender is bad (I have had bad luck with a lot of these Ford senders reading low).

Somebody on here might have the values you should be getting at certain pressures.

If the sender is indeed good, I would make sure the wire going to the gauge is good. If it is, try grounding the wire going to the gauge and see if the gauge pegs to one side or the other. If not, the gauge is bad.

If the gauge is good, change the voltage regulator on the cluster.

Also, get us some pictures.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 12:56 PM
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E4ZZ-9278-A (replaced B7T-9278-A, C7ZZ-9278-A, C9ZZ-9278-A) .. Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Unit (Motorcraft SW-1578-A) / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.

ALL 1957/90's FoMoCo I-6 & V8 vehicles.

btw: Bronco introduced in 1966, not 1965.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
E4ZZ-9278-A (replaced B7T-9278-A, C7ZZ-9278-A, C9ZZ-9278-A) .. Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Unit (Motorcraft SW-1578-A) / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.

ALL 1957/90's FoMoCo I-6 & V8 vehicles.

btw: Bronco introduced in 1966, not 1965.

The trucks that have a dummy light and a real guage have to run a different sending unit right? Mabe I got one for a dummy light application. I will have to check part # when I get home
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck
First of all, you can't just come on here and tell us that you are swapping a 12 valve into a '65 Ford and then not give of pictures - or better yet, start a build thread.

For your gauge, did you use any sort of thread sealant on the sending unit threads? That can mess up the reading.

The next thing to try would be to set your multi meter to Ohms and see if the resistance of the sending unit changes as the oil pressure changes. If it doesn't, the sender is bad (I have had bad luck with a lot of these Ford senders reading low).

Somebody on here might have the values you should be getting at certain pressures.

If the sender is indeed good, I would make sure the wire going to the gauge is good. If it is, try grounding the wire going to the gauge and see if the gauge pegs to one side or the other. If not, the gauge is bad.

If the gauge is good, change the voltage regulator on the cluster.

Also, get us some pictures.
Haha my bad I don't Internet very much. I will post some pictures of the truck soon. And yes I did use Teflon tape on the fitting for sending unit. I will have to remove it and see what happens.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck
First of all, you can't just come on here and tell us that you are swapping a 12 valve into a '65 Ford and then not give of pictures - or better yet, start a build thread.

For your gauge, did you use any sort of thread sealant on the sending unit threads? That can mess up the reading.

The next thing to try would be to set your multi meter to Ohms and see if the resistance of the sending unit changes as the oil pressure changes. If it doesn't, the sender is bad (I have had bad luck with a lot of these Ford senders reading low).

Somebody on here might have the values you should be getting at certain pressures.

If the sender is indeed good, I would make sure the wire going to the gauge is good. If it is, try grounding the wire going to the gauge and see if the gauge pegs to one side or the other. If not, the gauge is bad.

If the gauge is good, change the voltage regulator on the cluster.

Also, get us some pictures.




The day i drug it home. 65 f250 stock 4x4. Was a 300 6 truck





Started tare down discovered frame was broke in about 8 or 9 spots in between front leaf spring hangers. It was a 1in and 3/8 out of square also. So pulled it straight and boxed frame into submission





1st engine mock up. Built this truck because i upgraded my daily drivers turbo and needed a different down pipe so i had this super sweet pipe layin around. Had to put it to good use.





The dreaded killer dowl pin that likes to explode the timing case of these street tractor motors





Engine in.





Pass side drop dana 44 with 373s. Had to get springs rearched and two more leaves added because weight of the engine turned stock springs pack inside out. Saginaw outside of the frame steerbox.





14 bolt disc brake conversion with a bad pinion bearing hahah. 1410 series u joints all way round.





Built all intake piping and to feed a massive 7.3 powerstroke intercooler. Full 3in intake all way round and a 4 in straight pipe exhaust motor should breath great.





Trying to keep it quiet. It is a 5speed.








As it sits now for ride height with some borrowed 33x12.5x16.5. Still considering wheel and tire combos for when its down.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Goinnuts
The trucks that have a dummy light and a real guage have to run a different sending unit right? Mabe I got one for a dummy light application. I will have to check part # when I get home
1965/67 F100/250 require this fitting: C5TZ-9B339-B that both the E4ZZ-9278-A .. dome shaped Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Unit (see post 3) and the B6A-9278-B .. Warning Lamp Sending Unit thread into.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has the fitting: 800-543-4959.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
1965/67 F100/250 require this fitting: C5TZ-9B339-B that both the E4ZZ-9278-A .. dome shaped Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Unit (see post 3) and the B6A-9278-B .. Warning Lamp Sending Unit thread into.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has the fitting: 800-543-4959.
I'm no longer running the dummy lights so I don't need the sending unit for it, Or that obsolete fitting right? Unless the are working together somehow? . I went to the parts house and gave them the part number for guage sending unit you gave me, and what they gave me is the same style unit in already have on engine. I haven't put new one on yet. Hopefully it works
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 09:26 PM
  #9  
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1972RedNeck
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Wow, that's some impressive work. What did you do for a radiator? Could you get some more pics of the core support?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck
Wow, that's some impressive work. What did you do for a radiator? Could you get some more pics of the core support?




Lower radiator and intercooler mounts. Lower intercooler mounts are just saddles with rubber inserts in there





Upper radiator and cooler mounts. The radiator mount is completely removable.





I just went a bought one of those plastic tank rockauto radiators. Its the radiator that would of came with engine in the dodge truck. And intercooler is a 7.3 one. Not sure what year it it came out of. It came with engine.





Im running a single electric fan. Hopefully it pulls enough cfm to keep motor cool. Only think im kind of iffy about on this build. I didnt want to cut into firewall 6in to make stock engine fan fit. I didnt have to modify core support at all realy. Had to cut inner fenders to nothing to get all intake piping to fit.
 
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