OK so I am going to replace my alternator, I would like to upgrade to the 3G style with an internal regulator.

When I go to the junk yard, which cars should I be looking at? So far I was told 95 Mustang and 93 Taurus. What are my options?

Is there a way to tell the difference in amp ratings by looking at the alternators?

I plan to pull as much of the wiring to the alternator while I'm at it.

Thanks,
Wade

 

Yes, check out this thread for all the info you'll need. Two holes are the 130amp ones.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...g-upgrade.html

 

Thank you that diagram is very helpful.

I called the Ford dealer to see if there was a cross reference for other cars too, but the guy was not very helpful. The same thing happened when I called the junk yard. I need an exact application.

If I go to the junk yard and there is no 1993 3.8L Taurus or 1995 Mustang, what other cars have this alternator? Can't I just grab any alternator from the early to mid 90's?

 

Here you go from page 4 of that thread.

130G Alternators:
94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6
and plentiful one of all... 90-95 Ford Taurus.

And also it's twin Mercury Sable 91-95

 

Thank you, sorry for not going through the whole thread before asking.

That list will be very helpful! I'll post the project when I can get around to doing it.

Wade

 

Well there sure is a lot of info about this upgrade. From what I've read i will need to just use the green wire with the red stripe. I took a look at my current wiring here:
<img src="http://mymach1mustang.com/1967-ford-truck/alternator/alternator_wiring.jpg">

and a close up of the plug that leads to it, there are 4 wires going to that connection, if I only need the green/red wire, what do I do with the other 3? What are those wires for?
<img src="http://mymach1mustang.com/1967-ford-truck/alternator/alternator_plug.jpg">

By the way if you look close enough there is a rather large mosquito on that plug! Here is a close up:

<img src="http://mymach1mustang.com/1967-ford-truck/alternator/mozzy.jpg">

wouldn't want to get bit by that thing!

 

well I was wrong on that one, that looks like a large mosquito but it is actually a crane fly. They apparently eat mosquitoes ! So if you see one them don't swat it, they are good to have around.

 

We call those mosquito hawks around here.

You'll still need the thick black wire also as that's the main power to the cab. I just cut mine right behind that plug and tied into it. Make sure you put a fuse on it too, because right now it's protected by a fusible link. I put an 80 amp fuse on mine and I believe thats the size fuse others used too.

So I have a 135 amp MIDI wafer fuse on my BAT wire to the alternator and an 80 amp MAXI fuse on the main power to the cab.

 

Thanks, I'm hoping to get started on this little project in a few days. Just want to make sure I have everything I need.

 

AH-HA! I found the thread(s)! heading for the junkyard this weekend to yank one out.

I think I fried my 1G, sparks flew... now it doesn't charge. hahaha

 

Hey 351, try Auto Recycling Mall in Maricopa. 480-802-4444.

 

ok I know the third wire goes to the warning light, but what wire is that on the truck? i would think it would come off the voltage regulator right?

 

I'll quote.... Me!:

 

yea I got it all figured out. I had a few old wires not going anywhere that were tied in with the rest of them so that's what was throwing me. but after I figured it out I was able to completely eliminate all the old wiring. now I only have the 3 a,s,i wires and the charge cable. (this is possible because I don't have a choke and the horns aren't there)

im going to pick up a 175A fuse today and finish wiring it up.

also, I found a few little things that seemed to be different on the alternator I got. (from a 95 Taurus 3.8L)
number one, the bolt hole that holds the adjustment was bigger than 3/8" on mine, I had to use a through bolt with a nut on back.
number two, the shaft on it seemed to be shorter than others ive seen. I had to turn back the front shoulder on my V-pulley to get the full thread engagement.
number three, I had to drill out the main mounting hole to accept my long bolt, it was too small.
and four, I did not have to run a spacer between the pulley and the case, it clears by itself.

 

The OEM bolt and threads are metric.

Serendipity. Mine was a hair off . Made a thin washer out of aluminum and used Loctite red 272 on the nut.