just did a 3g upgrade
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
I don't know specifically know if the guts are the same.
Deducing from the OEM's practices however, they are likely the same internally because manufacturers these days try to keep their costs low and don't like to create model-specific mechanical parts.
Deducing from the OEM's practices however, they are likely the same internally because manufacturers these days try to keep their costs low and don't like to create model-specific mechanical parts.
Last edited by HIO Silver; Dec 31, 2011 at 01:06 PM. Reason: baaad syntax.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
This is good to know. I have a couple of alts off of 7.3 psd's that are in good working order. They have the sideways mount where my 3G on the Bronco has the 8.25 style. I am sure the case halves are all that need to be changed to mount in place.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,771
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From: Western Washington
6G? How many amps does that put out?
And for the record, I am very happy with my 3g swap! I might be able to use my jumper cables to jump someone else's rig, instead of them jumping mine, haha!
Sam
And for the record, I am very happy with my 3g swap! I might be able to use my jumper cables to jump someone else's rig, instead of them jumping mine, haha!
Sam
Certified Thread Hijacker
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Also the case with "some" later or newer 3G alternators as well. Seems better to stick to the older 1st series of 3G alternators than to to source one from the late 90s/early 2000 as some of those used the ECM as well.
I recall a couple cases of people installing circa 2000 3G alternators and having runaway voltage and other issues that none of us that swapped the early 3G alternators have not encountered.
Josh
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,771
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From: Western Washington
I wonder what the cutoff date was? Mine is off a 96 mustang, it seems to work ok.
I was talking to an older gent and he said he had a shop take his alternator and bump up the amps. I wonder if the same thing could be done with the 3g?
Sam
I was talking to an older gent and he said he had a shop take his alternator and bump up the amps. I wonder if the same thing could be done with the 3g?
Sam
Certified Thread Hijacker
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That's a similar trick in the tractor and diesel trade in regards to starters. Use a 6 volt starter with 12 volt system for tractors for instance. Or a 12 volt 35MT starter wired for 24 volt starting.
Josh
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 946
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From: Clearfield County, PA
Got everything in but it doesnt seem to be working, i have 11.9 amps before starting and about 11.8 when the truck is running. I have the "A" i believe it is, taken back to the post on the alternator, the grn/red tied into the grn/red from the harness and the main cable with the 175 fuse tied into the + side of the solenoid. Then from the factory harness i have the bigger black wire also tied into the + side of the solenoid. What am i missing? Thanks
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Got everything in but it doesnt seem to be working, i have 11.9 amps before starting and about 11.8 when the truck is running. I have the "A" i believe it is, taken back to the post on the alternator, the grn/red tied into the grn/red from the harness and the main cable with the 175 fuse tied into the + side of the solenoid. Then from the factory harness i have the bigger black wire also tied into the + side of the solenoid. What am i missing? Thanks
Double check your wiring using the images below for reference. Me and Bullitt390 collaborated on 'em and they should set you straight. Note the 2nd image of the modified wiring harness and which plugs will have zero Ohms. Btw, the large black/yellow wire should be protected with a fusible link.
Chassis Plugs
Modified Harness:
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 946
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From: Clearfield County, PA
Well i didnt have to check but will be sure to have it tested tomorrow. I didnt my wiring a little different. I eliminated the the 3 post and the 2 post plugs and wired them directly wire to wire. Kinda hard to explain. If that is my problem i will have to redo my wiring to incorporate the plug. Thanks for the help
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Btw, beware that the brushes will spring out if ya pull it out too far. If this happens, they'll need to be pushed back in and pinned with an opened paperclip before reseating the rear half of the case. IIRC, the pin hole is under the rubber plug on the back.
This page has an exploded diagram to illustrate: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400161234829...witem=&vxp=mtr
How did your 3G test??
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 946
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From: Clearfield County, PA
Undo the three Torx screws and separate the rear case. Sometimes they can be stubborn and need a slight tap with a dead blow hammer to break it loose. I'm guessing the brushes have worn a deep groove in the brush block creating interference which is making it hard to separate.
Btw, beware that the brushes will spring out if ya pull it out too far. If this happens, they'll need to be pushed back in and pinned with an opened paperclip before reseating the rear half of the case. IIRC, the pin hole is under the rubber plug on the back.
This page has an exploded diagram to illustrate: ALTERNATOR REPAIR KIT FORD 3G | eBay
How did your 3G test??
Btw, beware that the brushes will spring out if ya pull it out too far. If this happens, they'll need to be pushed back in and pinned with an opened paperclip before reseating the rear half of the case. IIRC, the pin hole is under the rubber plug on the back.
This page has an exploded diagram to illustrate: ALTERNATOR REPAIR KIT FORD 3G | eBay
How did your 3G test??