I have been researching both retail remote oil cooler/filtration systems and attempts on homemade systems on other forums and I have found a plan that I intend on following, but there is a question nagging me about the way this system is set up.

When looking at the following page.

http://www.acetroncorp.com/psd.htm

You can see that he has the oil return machined in so that it flows openly into the HPOP sump and the Engine Oil Supply ports.

But when looking at the flow paths of the oil I think that in order for oil to flow to the engine oil supply or turbo ports effectively the HPOP reservoir would have to be completely full of oil first.

Does the LPOP pump at a faster rate than the HPOP so that the reservoir will fill allowing the excess oil to be pushed into the engine oil supply and turbo oil supply ports?

I look at the guys pictures and think that if it didn't then no pressure would show on the pressure gauge that he mounted in his plate. Does that make sense?

 

The low pressure pump is a high volume pump. The HPOP is a low volume pump. I don't remember what the OEM filter is designed to flow in GPM but it is pretty dang high. Doug at gogo diesel knows and if I could remember where I read the discussion between him and one of the owners of bulletproof diesel I'd put in the link. It had to do with a set of filters trashing a $20K 6.0L race motor on project deranged, which had NOTHING to do with bulletproof. I know the filter that came with my bulletproof setup holds 1/2 gallon of oil and is fed by 5/8" hydraulic lines. Maybe the guy in that link you posted is a pretty smart fellow, but would you trust your $$$ engine to him or would you go with something proven, like the bulletproof???

Here is the thread I referenced. PLEASE take the time to read the technical information if you don't already know it!!!

http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/...ad.php?t=74242

 

18.5 gallons per minute @ 3300rpm.Wow that is 1110 gph,that is a lot of oil moving through the system.

 

That's a HUGE amount of oil and pushing it through a 20 micron filter.

 

I would love to have the bullet proof setup but at $1900 they can keep it. I understand they need to pay for the R and D and all of that, but they have held that price for a while now and show no sign of letting up on it.

In fact they have a patten pending on their oil cooler and have openly threatened legal action on several different posters on other forums
for trying to make a couple bucks making plates like the one I posted for an affordable price.

Fact is they make a good product and don't want any competition to interfere with their profit margin. They have a monopoly pending on this product and will not make them more affordable any time soon.

Plus I take pride in making my own stuff anyway.

 

Thanks, I read it. All of the information matches what I have found so far. I am going with 12AN fittings, 5/8 hose, a high flow Setrab nascar oil cooler and a single filter setup that matches our stock filter specs. So I should not have a problem with restricted flow.

 

I respect that very much and wish I had the tools to make it myself. I found some more info related to the oil pressure "issue" on the .ORG if you haven't already seen it. You've obviously done your research. I am interested in the oil filter setup you found if you'd be interested in PMing me a link? I'd like to do a little modification myself.

 

That is one big reason to stick w/ Racor filters. Their oil filter is rated at 20 gpm flow. I would doubt that cheaper filters are.

(sorry for the hijack)

BTW - in only a few "failure scenarios", is the HPOP capable of out-pumping the LPOP.

 

I had a thought this morning (I know--dangerous thing). I know the filter is rated at this flow/filtration spec., but I wonder what the pump is actually capable of pumping and if that spec. is available. I was also very interested in the pictures of the oil cooler bypass valve posted in the link and wonder what kind of affect that's having on temps as well and what the "failure" rate on those is or if it even has any kind of affect??

 

The LPOP is actually rated at 18.5 gpm, not sure about the HPOP.

 

I knew that the filter was but wasn't sure about the LPOP. Thanks Mark!!

After studying the pictures in the link Hubler posted I decided to take my filter base apart and to do some measuring. I'm going to use the OEM terminology for clarification.

The antidrain back valve hole is 3/4" in diameter but only opens 5/16" into a cavity in the casting. I'm no engineer, but in my way of thinking this is considerably less area for oil flow than a straight 3/4" hole??? The reason I question this is because of concerns raised about 3/4" holes in oil passages and 5/8" hoses used in the aftermarket kits. I need some help in this area from an expert. I'm also wondering if the oil cooler bypass valve contributes to flow into the filter volume??? My oil cooler bypass valve has the same groove cut into it as this picture attached. I'm wondering how much the cooler bypass valve is open and what affect it has on oil cooling.

 

To ensure my system is leak proof I decided that I am going to have my local tractor shop make my lines for me. They will be made out of 5/8" fireproof and crimpproof hydraulic lines and #12 fittings and will be able to handle 3000 PSI. "I know its a little bit overkill" I will be mounting everything except the plate and will drive down to his shop to make the lines so that the truck is there on sight with all of the equipment in order to ensure good fit and finish. The guy who owns the shop is a big diesel guy himself and has a 7.3 non turbo and was pretty excited about trucks in general and we talked for a couple hours about our truck plans.

I am still researching filters. I found a Baldwin filter that will flow 39 GPM at 10 Micron, but it's like $50 a filter and I had a hard time finding a housing that it could mount to.

I also cross checked the carquest filter that bulletproof diesel sells with their kit and found that the baldwin equivilent “BT349” has a built in anti drainback valve and a 20 PSI bypass valve built in, but it only filters down to 23 micron nominal or 45 micron absolute and has a maximum flow rate of 16GPM at 15PSI. I would think that the LPOP pushes more than 20PSI, so that means everything would bypass, the rate of flow and micron filtration were not what I was looking for either, so this is not the filter I plan on using and my search continues.

This may have been answered earlier but what kind of PSI is the LPOP pushing?

Edit: in the thread NPC partsman provided they have a discussion about filter characteristics versus what the pump pushes and they seemed to to tangled up on exactly what filter should be used too. So I'll reread that and see if I can make sense of it and find an answer for LPOP PSI.

 

Let me make a clarification for you and someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I BELIEVE that the 20psi bypass valve in the filter is a pressure differential bypass. In other words, when pressure on the "outside" of the filter (from catching dirt, soot, metal, wtf ever) is 20psi more than the "inside" of the filter, the bypass valve opens to allow oil to keep lubricating the motor and to keep the filter element from collapsing. The factory filter is the same way, but uses the standpipe as it's 20 psi bypass instead of having one "built in". The bypass rating is not meant to be a pump pressure regulator. The factory pump is regulated to 70+ psi

 

Ok that makes more sense, I probably could have thought that through but I am pulling a 24 hour duty after a sleepless night and I'm zinging off of energy drinks, so my thought process isn't really there.

Thanks, with that said the best filter I have come accross to run on my setup is the same one the 7.3 runs. The Napa version #1734 filters 21 micron at a max flow of 28-30 the comparable baldwin B7039 filters 12 micron at a max flow of 28-30 so i'm leaning towards it. I will most likely purchase a mount with the bypass built in.

 

IIRC the carquest filter that the bulletproof is running is a 32 micron filter, which is a little "larger" than I'd like. That being said I couldn't really find good spec's for that partiular filter (85832 is what came in my kit). I was trying to source an alternate filter locally since there are no Carquest stores in my area but NAPA is only 6 miles. I just don't have much faith in NAPA filters, for whatever reason. It's been a really difficult task to find an OEM equivalent filter for filtration AND flow. None of the crossed filters for the 85832 are equivalent to it OR the OEM and I was wanting something that would do a little better job of filtering soot without going to a bypass setup. Filter dimensions are also critical due to the location of the filter mount. Decisions Decisions.