would you replace it???
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
yes it is still in the truck and yes we know we will have to pull it our completely to replace if we do that
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 708
Likes: 1
If the 'cam is shot, totally worn down' as you say then enough metallic particles have circulated in the oil that you will want to replace all the bearings. Mind you, you could probably get by without doing it. If you already have a new timing chain and camshaft and you want to get the truck on the road cheap then I would just put in the new cam and lifters and chain and run the truck. You can almost certainly expect to have some rod/main/cam bearing damage from the ground up lobe material circulating in your oil, but if you're not going to bother replacing all the bearing, then don't bother replacing the cam bearings. Your two best options are probably either A) a full teardown and inspection and rebuild or B) just put the new cam/lifters/chain in and run it. Depending upon how much grit circulated in your oil you may get lucky and only have a small drop in oil pressure.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
If the 'cam is shot, totally worn down' as you say then enough metallic particles have circulated in the oil that you will want to replace all the bearings. Mind you, you could probably get by without doing it. If you already have a new timing chain and camshaft and you want to get the truck on the road cheap then I would just put in the new cam and lifters and chain and run the truck. You can almost certainly expect to have some rod/main/cam bearing damage from the ground up lobe material circulating in your oil, but if you're not going to bother replacing all the bearing, then don't bother replacing the cam bearings. Your two best options are probably either A) a full teardown and inspection and rebuild or B) just put the new cam/lifters/chain in and run it. Depending upon how much grit circulated in your oil you may get lucky and only have a small drop in oil pressure.
First thing is install the cam and see if there is any play wiggling top to bottom and side to side. If there isn't any, I agree with Bronc on this. Clean everything up as best you can, put the new cam and lifters in along with the timing chain and get your ride back on the road. As long as your and your dad know when you go for the complete rebuild you will of course have to put in a knew cam and lifters then. I've been down this road as well and can understand your position. Best of luck.
Mark
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 308
Likes: 5
word on the street is that cam bearings usually last 2-3 times longer than your engine. Most people don't need new cam bearings when they rebuild at around 150,000 miles, but since hot tanks destroy the bearings they have to get new ones installed.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Regardless whether you replace the bearings or not, when you install the new cam be sure to carefully check the oil you're using.
Modern oils have been reformulated (thanks EPA!) and the zinc and phosphorus extreme pressure additives have been removed. This translates into severe camshaft wear on flat tappet camshafts! The roller cams in todays modern engines don't have this problem but all dents cam with flat tappet cams.
Competition Cams has a good write-up about this on their website.
Either use an additive or an oil that still has the additives.
Modern oils have been reformulated (thanks EPA!) and the zinc and phosphorus extreme pressure additives have been removed. This translates into severe camshaft wear on flat tappet camshafts! The roller cams in todays modern engines don't have this problem but all dents cam with flat tappet cams.
Competition Cams has a good write-up about this on their website.
Either use an additive or an oil that still has the additives.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1966Tbird
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
13
Jan 24, 2008 10:06 PM
bushwacker51
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
4
Mar 6, 2006 12:54 PM
karljay
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
7
Nov 22, 2004 03:54 PM
FERacing66
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
4
Nov 20, 2004 01:33 AM
