ZF5 slow shifting
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ZF5 slow shifting
Hey guys, I'm new to the site and have been trying to find some information for my truck before I started asking questions, but with work and being tired I need to just ask....
I feel that the ZF5 trans in my newly acquired 94.5 F-350 is shifting slow.
What I mean is that when I shift from 1st to 2nd I can almost hear the sincro spoolling up the 2nd gear before it finally pops in. It's so loud that even my GF (who knows very little about trucks or mechanical things) can hear this spool up noise.
I can also hear this noise when I shift from 2nd to 3rd, but not as loud.
It makes it very annoying trying to drive the truck because it makes it look like I don't know how to drive a manual and the shifts are taking WAY to long.
The only thing I can assume is that the company that owned the truck before me use gear oil instead of auto-tranny fuild in the box.
Anyone have any experience with this situation? Oh, it doesn't get easier to shift as the trans warms up either.
Thanks for your help.
I feel that the ZF5 trans in my newly acquired 94.5 F-350 is shifting slow.
What I mean is that when I shift from 1st to 2nd I can almost hear the sincro spoolling up the 2nd gear before it finally pops in. It's so loud that even my GF (who knows very little about trucks or mechanical things) can hear this spool up noise.
I can also hear this noise when I shift from 2nd to 3rd, but not as loud.
It makes it very annoying trying to drive the truck because it makes it look like I don't know how to drive a manual and the shifts are taking WAY to long.
The only thing I can assume is that the company that owned the truck before me use gear oil instead of auto-tranny fuild in the box.
Anyone have any experience with this situation? Oh, it doesn't get easier to shift as the trans warms up either.
Thanks for your help.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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Doesn't grind when forcing it into gear.
And yes, I normally start in 2nd. But recently I've been pulling a trailer when I notice this.
Shifts fine when truck is off.
Clutch engages 1/2 off the floor, kinda far if you ask me. But I thought this didn't matter with a hydraulic clutch. Again, I'm uneducated.
And yes, I normally start in 2nd. But recently I've been pulling a trailer when I notice this.
Shifts fine when truck is off.
Clutch engages 1/2 off the floor, kinda far if you ask me. But I thought this didn't matter with a hydraulic clutch. Again, I'm uneducated.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
Two other things that can mimic a bad clutch, mostly because they can cause it to not fully disengage, are bad pedalbox bushings and a bad master cylinder pushrod bushing. They commonly wear out because they are plastic on that big dog clutch pedal. If so they will allow the pedal to be pushed to the floor but the extra play will keep the other end of the clutch pedal rod from pushing the master cylinder in far enough. It is pretty easy to tell. Just look underneath. There are some on the rod that runs from the clutch pedal through the brake pedal to the master cylinder. Push on the clutch pedal some with your hand and if it moves much more than just pivoting some they could need replacing. The other is a white plastic one shaped like a "crown" or top of a castle. It sits inside the eye on the end of the clutch master cylinder rod. Also the metal eye on the MC pushrod can also become worn due to the previous problems. So there's 3 easy checks and fixes to start with as well.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,248
Likes: 7,668
From: Chino Valley, Arizona
Doesn't grind when forcing it into gear.
And yes, I normally start in 2nd. But recently I've been pulling a trailer when I notice this.
Shifts fine when truck is off.
Clutch engages 1/2 off the floor, kinda far if you ask me. But I thought this didn't matter with a hydraulic clutch. Again, I'm uneducated.
And yes, I normally start in 2nd. But recently I've been pulling a trailer when I notice this.
Shifts fine when truck is off.
Clutch engages 1/2 off the floor, kinda far if you ask me. But I thought this didn't matter with a hydraulic clutch. Again, I'm uneducated.
I will not shift out of granny over about 8 miles per hour on either one of my trucks. I only use it to get the truck rolling when heavily loaded.
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plgebbia: It shifts into reverse just fine.
Redman84: When I push on the clutch pedal with my hand, I can see the brake pedal move slightly to the left and the bushings are squeaking. So they may need to be replaced. I'll look into doing that shortly. The master cylinder bushing looks great, I was playing with that and it's tight.
helifixer: No, I have not serviced the trans. I'm going to check it this morning if I have time. I have only owned the truck for one week. So I should run synthetic ATF in the tranny? I read somewhere that it is around 4 quarts. I will also try your 8mph idea. I'll be towing my trailer everyday till this sunday.
Redman84: When I push on the clutch pedal with my hand, I can see the brake pedal move slightly to the left and the bushings are squeaking. So they may need to be replaced. I'll look into doing that shortly. The master cylinder bushing looks great, I was playing with that and it's tight.
helifixer: No, I have not serviced the trans. I'm going to check it this morning if I have time. I have only owned the truck for one week. So I should run synthetic ATF in the tranny? I read somewhere that it is around 4 quarts. I will also try your 8mph idea. I'll be towing my trailer everyday till this sunday.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
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From: College Station, TX
The bushings are pretty cheap. Around $15 I think even at the stealership which is the only place I know of to get them. Part #F3TZ-2C342-A. Not too bad to install either. Here is a link to Neal doing his with a lot of pics https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...pic-heavy.html
The tranny calls for 3.8 qts. I'd change it asap if you're unsure of the history. It's easy to change that much real quick. Run it some and then do another change like previously said to clean it out well. When you put in the second round some folks like to overfill it by a quart or so for noise reduction on solid mass flywheel units. I know when I add about a half quart extra in mine it makes a difference in the racket. You can add extra by parking your driver's side on a curb or taking off the top of the trans inside the cab(more difficult).
The tranny calls for 3.8 qts. I'd change it asap if you're unsure of the history. It's easy to change that much real quick. Run it some and then do another change like previously said to clean it out well. When you put in the second round some folks like to overfill it by a quart or so for noise reduction on solid mass flywheel units. I know when I add about a half quart extra in mine it makes a difference in the racket. You can add extra by parking your driver's side on a curb or taking off the top of the trans inside the cab(more difficult).
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2009
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if you go with a tranny fluid change what ever you do dont try mobile 1 full synthetic, its taking a toll on my syncros, shifts like crap when cold. and grinds all over the place when downshifting poorly.
i was told my thoes with expeience, there syncros kicking the bucket have tried redline mtf, brought them back to life. just a thought!
ill be trying redline soon.
i was told my thoes with expeience, there syncros kicking the bucket have tried redline mtf, brought them back to life. just a thought!
ill be trying redline soon.
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I'll do the bushings shortly. Thanks for the info and PN's
I checked the trans fuild today and it was low. I could stick my smallest finger in the hole and bend it all the way down and not feel fuild. So I added a quart. I'll deffinitly swap out the fuild twice to clean it out. I'll try that redline product, I just have to find it.
As far as the clutch, I don't know what I have. I'll pop the inspection cover off when I do the fuild change and check it out.
I checked the trans fuild today and it was low. I could stick my smallest finger in the hole and bend it all the way down and not feel fuild. So I added a quart. I'll deffinitly swap out the fuild twice to clean it out. I'll try that redline product, I just have to find it.
As far as the clutch, I don't know what I have. I'll pop the inspection cover off when I do the fuild change and check it out.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,168
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From: San Ramon Ca.
If you can't find Redline locally you can order from them direct. If your in a warmer climate I would run the Redline MTL. In a colder climate ATF. Amsoil or Shaeffers are other good options.
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