Replace Steering Lock Lever
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Replace Steering Lock Lever
I went to start my truck and the lock cylinder turned(no resistance) but no start. Turns out the small pot metal device called a steering lock lever that connects the key switch to the ignition switch had broken. I was able to easily find a new one but replacing it is quite the challenge. I removed the steering wheel, turn signal switch etc and was able to remove the broken pieces by moving the tilt down. Problem is I can't get enough clearance to reinstall the lever when not broken in the small opening. Has anyone made this repair? The part looks like it would break in a lot of applications. This must have been a common repair. Is there a way to separate the casting that holds the steering wheel, switches etc from the steering shaft to increase the clearance? Or is there a trick to feeding the square guide down into the cast block? It is seeming that it would almost be easier to replace the entire column than replace this part.
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From: Virginia
I had to go to the local Ford dealer and talk to a mechanic to figure it out.
Take the pivot pins out of each side of the column. Find a screw that will thread into the pins and pull it out with pliers or a claw hammer.
Then look at the center shaft, there is a snap ring. Take this snap rin off, and carefully lower the assembly for clearance. He said whatever you do, don't let the whole thing fall apart, it's almost impossible to get it back together. So when the pins and the snap ring are off, keep a steady hand on it while lowering it enough to put the new piece in place.
Take the pivot pins out of each side of the column. Find a screw that will thread into the pins and pull it out with pliers or a claw hammer.
Then look at the center shaft, there is a snap ring. Take this snap rin off, and carefully lower the assembly for clearance. He said whatever you do, don't let the whole thing fall apart, it's almost impossible to get it back together. So when the pins and the snap ring are off, keep a steady hand on it while lowering it enough to put the new piece in place.
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Thanks- It looked like the two pins with the interior threads were all that held the cast pieces together. You talk about lowering after the pins are out(I had already pulled the snap ring) but I think I'm going to be pulling towards me. I have not disconnected the column at all. Did the two cast pieces want to jump apart when you loosened them. I see a lot of springs in the tilt mechanism. I was a little worried that once those pins came out the whole mess might explode.
I think the machine screws are 10-32 do you remember- the 10-24 I've got starts but I think the thread pitch is wrong.
Do the pins come out pretty easy?
I think the machine screws are 10-32 do you remember- the 10-24 I've got starts but I think the thread pitch is wrong.
Do the pins come out pretty easy?
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From: Virginia
They come out fairly easy. I believe they were metric, but I ran into the same situation as you, but still got them to come out with the wrong style screws.
I didn't have any problems with anything jumping out at me when I took it apart, but just keep some pressure on it so the piece that the snap ring held on doesn't slide off.
I didn't have any problems with anything jumping out at me when I took it apart, but just keep some pressure on it so the piece that the snap ring held on doesn't slide off.
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The pins came out with a 8-32 machine screw. The were easier to move than I expected-I just clamped a vise grip on the screw and twisted a wide blade screwdriver to leverage the pins out. I got enough clearance to get the lock lever guide into the column and re-connected the ignition switch shaft. I still ended up with more more movement than desired( ka-sploing) but I was able to tilt everything back into alignment. I had already removed the shroud holding the turn signal, cruise control and flasher switches for access.
Now the proper installation of the actuator assembly(geared connection between the ignition cylinder and the lock lever) is baffling me. This fell out attached to the other half of the lock lever. It didn't appear to be wound into the gear that pushes the lever down to activate the starter. Is there a specific way to correctly install the linkage. When I first stuck it together the actuator seemed to be too far in. Were you able to just slide the actuator assembly into the column cover and then screw thisngs together?
Do you know of any links that show this process. I was into the Ford service manuals Friday and couldn't find anything.
Thanks
Again
Now the proper installation of the actuator assembly(geared connection between the ignition cylinder and the lock lever) is baffling me. This fell out attached to the other half of the lock lever. It didn't appear to be wound into the gear that pushes the lever down to activate the starter. Is there a specific way to correctly install the linkage. When I first stuck it together the actuator seemed to be too far in. Were you able to just slide the actuator assembly into the column cover and then screw thisngs together?
Do you know of any links that show this process. I was into the Ford service manuals Friday and couldn't find anything.
Thanks
Again
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