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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:20 PM
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352 Headers

I got some major exhaust leaks on my '65 F100 352. The manifolds are not cracked, but the gaskets are shot and so is that crappy heat riser and the x-over pipe. I was thinking of getting some headers, because that seems like it might be the cheapest and easiest way to get some dual exhaust (I found some Flowtechs for $148).

I have read some stories over in the Slick Sixties forum though about how headers will toast my starter and they are a PITA to install, and there is not much HP gain. Anyone have any comments on this?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:36 PM
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Headers are a good investment, for better mpg and better hp. Stock exhaust manifolds are very restrictive. Cheap headers tend to warp and cause leaks that are not fun. You can wrap the headers around the starter or install a heat shield around the starter to keep the heat from ruining the starter. Buy good quality headers.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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So far, All i have found is Flowtech, Hooker, and FPA headers. Are any of those any good? I couldn't find a price on the FPAs, but they looked like the heavier duty ones. The Hookers were thicker than the Flowtechs, and not too expensive either.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 03:01 PM
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They all make a cheap line and a quality line. Look for a 3/8 flange.
Stage 8 header bolt locks are very handy. Over time without the locks, the header bolts loosen up and then you get blown out exhaust gaskets.
Do it right the first time, and you can have many miles of trouble free, happy motoring.


Stage 8 Locking Header Bolt Kits - SummitRacing.com
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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Cool -Thanks for the advice. I don't mind sending a little extra to do it right the first time.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 04:06 PM
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I have headers on my 390, not sure what brand because there is no tag but I havent had any starter problems (knock on wood). If I ever have to take them off completely or if i change them, im going to wrap them and get a mini starter just for ease lol.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 09:14 AM
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Usually, if you have a marginal starter to begin with, the heat from the headers will cause whatever resistance is in the starter already (usually the brushes/armature or a bad winding) to get worse. Heat + resistance = more resistance = slow start = high current draw = overheated solenoid = bad battery = smoking battery cables = you-get-the-idea

I wouldn't avoid headers because of heating up the starter. I would, however, invest in a good NEW (or VERY high quality rebuilt) starter, or better yet a peanut (PMGR) starter.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 10:26 AM
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LOL, well my starter is at least 20 years old, probebly older, so I guess I should add a new starter into the cost of this little project.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 12:39 PM
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Check with Heddman on the headers also.see if they have a set that'll fit.I put a set on my '74 and knock on wood,no problems thus far.I wish I had the extra dough at the time and went for the Elite headers that they sell.Oh well.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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I'm on a tight budget as it is...I may have to sell a gun or two to raise enough cash for a good set.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 05:39 PM
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Summit has 'em. Shorties, full length...tuned and not. Prices aren't out of reach either.

Jeff
 
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 07:09 AM
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Is it possible to remove the heat riser flapper thing on the driver side manifold? If so, I may just remove that and have the exhaust run from the stock manifolds.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 64F-100
Is it possible to remove the heat riser flapper thing on the driver side manifold? If so, I may just remove that and have the exhaust run from the stock manifolds.
Yes it is.




John
 
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jowilker
Yes it is.




John
Let me elaborate, since I have done it. My butterfly fell into the pipe and eventually found its way into the muffler, so I cannot help you on getting it out. However, you'll be left with the hole that the pivot rod goes through. I tapped it to 1/4 - 20, installed a silicone coated short bolt. Been like that since 1997, no problems.
 
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