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911 HEAD removal?????

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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 09:03 PM
  #16  
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LOL !!!! I am sorry. I couldnt resist. Yes and that why we pulled the motor. You are a real man to do it in the truck.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 09:44 PM
  #17  
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..... and reading through this thread is only the perfect example of why I lift the cab if I'm pulling the heads or the engine. All other work, I leave the cab bolted to the frame. The time it takes to pull the cab, not to mention the unobstructed access to torquing crucial fasteners makes it far easier on the back. You'll understand where I'm coming from, when it comes time to lift that head over the fenders. Of course, I guess the reason most you guys leave the cab bolted in place, is due to lack of access to a lift. But for those of you doing this job to your own truck, remember you'll only be doing it once. Like already posted, imagine trying to race the clock to have it done in 15 hours WITHOUT compromising the quality and integrity of the repair. There's the REAL challenge.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 09:47 PM
  #18  
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m-chan your milage and mine very on that, I have done it both ways. I can do it faster with the cab on. I dont care much for the cab pulling. Not even on a 6.4.
Im not saying either way is better. But I dont pick the heads up thats what a crane is for.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 09:54 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cheezit
But I dont pick the heads up thats what a crane is for.
Aaahhhh yes. The good old Ford Workshop Manual. And I couldn't agree more. However, most guys on this forum doing this on their own ride likely don't have the luxury of either access to a lift, or a cherry picker. And like you, I never said it was IMPOSSIBLE or better doing it by either method. To be honest, I'm not that big of a fan of pulling cabs either. But I'm not a big fan of being bent over a fender for the better part of eight hours either. I already did more than my share of that, back in the days of changing head gaskets on those 5.4L trucks of '98 to '00 vintage before I was introduced to pulling cabs.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 09:56 PM
  #20  
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I have spent the better part of 17 years bent over.... lmao. Talk about memories. hanging pistons and rods in 5.0 fox bodies for piston slap.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 11:26 PM
  #21  
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ok got them pulled is there anything I should check or replace while I have it all tore apart? And is there any type of lube I should put on the cylinder walls before I assemble it.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 11:35 PM
  #22  
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Was wondering if anyone can share some step by step instructions and torque specs. for putting my heads and rocker box and injectors back together. Also is there a gasket kit that comes with all the seals and orings I need to reassemble my truck.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 06:23 PM
  #23  
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there is an upper gasket kit. Dont know the part numbers. I will say I have never had good luck with that kit.
I get 2 headgasket sets, 2 rocker carrier gaskets, intake gaskets (they also come with an egr cooler) one water tube o-ring. The oil cooler will come with it own needed gaskets.

what type of head bolts are you using?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 06:47 PM
  #24  
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ok and what can I clean this block without meesing the surface up? I was thinking scotchbrite pad maybe? Supposed to get my heads tomorrow or friday so hopefully to get it all back together this weekend
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 06:49 PM
  #25  
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metal serface prep and a brass scraper. A 3m scoth brite pad works well. remember the idea is not to remove the stains left by the gaskets but to remove all the debree so the deck is smooth.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:10 PM
  #26  
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ok thanks. and is there anything I need to use to lube the cylinders when I reassemble
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:33 PM
  #27  
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nope no need to lube them
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #28  
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where can I get a brass scraper at?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #29  
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IDK. I got mine from the tool truck.
try nappa auto parts.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 08:02 PM
  #30  
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okie dokie
 
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