1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Moser

"Dent" Side

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 06-22-2010, 12:18 PM
zinke13's Avatar
zinke13
zinke13 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
"Dent" Side

Alright guys, looking for some ideas on how to get this pulled. PO said that it was a hay bale, not likely. Just want to get it straight enough to skim coat with minimal filler. Already looking for a donor corner to weld in place, but the rest of the donor truck will need to be hammered cuz I'm not cuttin up a good super.

Any help on this is appreciated.
 
Attached Images   
  #2  
Old 06-22-2010, 12:46 PM
dynamic's Avatar
dynamic
dynamic is offline
FTE Chapter Leader

Join Date: May 2001
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 3,290
Received 11 Likes on 9 Posts
WELL ....

That is in a tough spot.

Personally I would buy a welded stud type dent puller kit and go that route.

You will have a hard time accessing the damage from inside the cab unless you start cutting holes.
 
  #3  
Old 06-22-2010, 12:51 PM
zinke13's Avatar
zinke13
zinke13 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
That's what I was thinkin. Just hopin to get some redneck engineering on this.
 
  #4  
Old 06-22-2010, 01:02 PM
dynamic's Avatar
dynamic
dynamic is offline
FTE Chapter Leader

Join Date: May 2001
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 3,290
Received 11 Likes on 9 Posts
if you want to go redneck we can go REDNECK on it!

Dent the other side... now it matches!

 
The following users liked this post:
  #5  
Old 06-22-2010, 01:07 PM
zinke13's Avatar
zinke13
zinke13 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh no. If we're goin redneck we'll just cut the top off and make it a convertable.
 
  #6  
Old 06-22-2010, 01:20 PM
76f350spercamprspeal's Avatar
76f350spercamprspeal
76f350spercamprspeal is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: St. Charles, Missouri.
Posts: 12,183
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 12 Posts
Originally Posted by zinke13
Oh no. If we're goin redneck we'll just cut the top off and make it a convertable.
I like the sound of that!
 
  #7  
Old 12-08-2013, 04:27 PM
rodbender's Avatar
rodbender
rodbender is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'd rent a stud puller and a body hammer. The pullers work pretty good. I went and bought one
 
  #8  
Old 12-08-2013, 04:41 PM
HIO Silver's Avatar
HIO Silver
HIO Silver is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: NorCal
Posts: 20,676
Received 58 Likes on 48 Posts
I'll donn a shadetree hat for this one...

Remove the headliner and slide a bicycle tube down the double wall. Then INFLATE!!!

An alternative is multiple applications with a torch and cold rag to successively shrink the metal and draw it out.

Otherwise, a stud gun.
 
  #9  
Old 12-08-2013, 09:45 PM
paredneck33's Avatar
paredneck33
paredneck33 is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: penn twp.
Posts: 3,485
Received 49 Likes on 41 Posts
If you want to use a stud welder you would need to get something like this. http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalo...6e95/p5115.jpg
Then I would recommend instead of using the slide hammer which can greatly fatigue the metal. I would suggest using a come a long to apply steady even pulling pressure. That way you minimize the stretching effect, and fatiguing of the metal. Also doing it this way will allow you to keep the steady pulling pressure and hammer the high spots around at the same time. If you do it right this will make for a very nice repair. Just be careful with the stud gun so that you don't hold the trigger to long and burn holes in the metal. Then you could have a real mess on your hands. Get it right though and you'll need a good low profile pair of side dyke wire cutters to simply twist the studs off the metal and be able to clean them up and reuse them later as needed. Other wise just simply cut behind the head of the stud and discard. The use a high speed sander a.k.a. grinder with a 50 grit wheel to smooth the studs down to perfection. Then fill, prime, and paint.
 
  #10  
Old 12-08-2013, 09:58 PM
earthquake68's Avatar
earthquake68
earthquake68 is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: THIS IS SPARTA!, ...Mo.
Posts: 12,770
Received 257 Likes on 194 Posts
Use 3/8 bolts 2" long and weld them to the cab corner. Then use a dent puller to pull on the bolts. Then a cut off wheel to cut them off. I did this on a tail gate and it worked great. ...or you could buy a stud gun from Harbor Freight.
 
  #11  
Old 12-08-2013, 10:28 PM
fmc400's Avatar
fmc400
fmc400 is offline
MSEE
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 18 Posts
Psst...this thread is 3 and a half years old. Hopefully he figured it out by now.

 
  #12  
Old 12-08-2013, 10:30 PM
jimdandyf100's Avatar
jimdandyf100
jimdandyf100 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Can you fashion a "L" shaped paddle and go up through the ceiling inside the cab, then try to pop it out by leveraging down on the paddle handle which will flip paddle outwards?
 
  #13  
Old 12-09-2013, 01:14 AM
paredneck33's Avatar
paredneck33
paredneck33 is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: penn twp.
Posts: 3,485
Received 49 Likes on 41 Posts
Originally Posted by fmc400
Psst...this thread is 3 and a half years old. Hopefully he figured it out by now.

DULP!!! didn't catch that.
 
  #14  
Old 12-09-2013, 04:07 PM
DieHardChief's Avatar
DieHardChief
DieHardChief is offline
Junior User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by paredneck33
If you want to use a stud welder you would need to get something like this. http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalo...6e95/p5115.jpg
Then I would recommend instead of using the slide hammer which can greatly fatigue the metal. I would suggest using a come a long to apply steady even pulling pressure. That way you minimize the stretching effect, and fatiguing of the metal. Also doing it this way will allow you to keep the steady pulling pressure and hammer the high spots around at the same time. If you do it right this will make for a very nice repair. Just be careful with the stud gun so that you don't hold the trigger to long and burn holes in the metal. Then you could have a real mess on your hands. Get it right though and you'll need a good low profile pair of side dyke wire cutters to simply twist the studs off the metal and be able to clean them up and reuse them later as needed. Other wise just simply cut behind the head of the stud and discard. The use a high speed sander a.k.a. grinder with a 50 grit wheel to smooth the studs down to perfection. Then fill, prime, and paint.

informative. thanks man.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Joe_Schindler
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
2
07-17-2017 10:12 AM
Greg Rogers
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
24
06-20-2017 10:27 AM
fordguy98
Texas Chapter
1
05-05-2016 09:03 PM
timf150
Excursion - King of SUVs
22
08-29-2015 12:39 PM
wcelliot
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
30
03-02-2010 12:02 PM



Quick Reply: "Dent" Side



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:37 PM.