"Dent" Side
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Junior User
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"Dent" Side
Alright guys, looking for some ideas on how to get this pulled. PO said that it was a hay bale, not likely. Just want to get it straight enough to skim coat with minimal filler. Already looking for a donor corner to weld in place, but the rest of the donor truck will need to be hammered cuz I'm not cuttin up a good super.
Any help on this is appreciated.
Any help on this is appreciated.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Rhode Island
WELL ....
That is in a tough spot.
Personally I would buy a welded stud type dent puller kit and go that route.
You will have a hard time accessing the damage from inside the cab unless you start cutting holes.
That is in a tough spot.
Personally I would buy a welded stud type dent puller kit and go that route.
You will have a hard time accessing the damage from inside the cab unless you start cutting holes.
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From: Central Illinois
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Fleet Owner
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From: NorCal
I'll donn a shadetree hat for this one...
Remove the headliner and slide a bicycle tube down the double wall. Then INFLATE!!!
An alternative is multiple applications with a torch and cold rag to successively shrink the metal and draw it out.
Otherwise, a stud gun.
Remove the headliner and slide a bicycle tube down the double wall. Then INFLATE!!!
An alternative is multiple applications with a torch and cold rag to successively shrink the metal and draw it out.
Otherwise, a stud gun.
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From: penn twp.
If you want to use a stud welder you would need to get something like this. http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalo...6e95/p5115.jpg
Then I would recommend instead of using the slide hammer which can greatly fatigue the metal. I would suggest using a come a long to apply steady even pulling pressure. That way you minimize the stretching effect, and fatiguing of the metal. Also doing it this way will allow you to keep the steady pulling pressure and hammer the high spots around at the same time. If you do it right this will make for a very nice repair. Just be careful with the stud gun so that you don't hold the trigger to long and burn holes in the metal. Then you could have a real mess on your hands. Get it right though and you'll need a good low profile pair of side dyke wire cutters to simply twist the studs off the metal and be able to clean them up and reuse them later as needed. Other wise just simply cut behind the head of the stud and discard. The use a high speed sander a.k.a. grinder with a 50 grit wheel to smooth the studs down to perfection. Then fill, prime, and paint.
Then I would recommend instead of using the slide hammer which can greatly fatigue the metal. I would suggest using a come a long to apply steady even pulling pressure. That way you minimize the stretching effect, and fatiguing of the metal. Also doing it this way will allow you to keep the steady pulling pressure and hammer the high spots around at the same time. If you do it right this will make for a very nice repair. Just be careful with the stud gun so that you don't hold the trigger to long and burn holes in the metal. Then you could have a real mess on your hands. Get it right though and you'll need a good low profile pair of side dyke wire cutters to simply twist the studs off the metal and be able to clean them up and reuse them later as needed. Other wise just simply cut behind the head of the stud and discard. The use a high speed sander a.k.a. grinder with a 50 grit wheel to smooth the studs down to perfection. Then fill, prime, and paint.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: THIS IS SPARTA!, ...Mo.
Use 3/8 bolts 2" long and weld them to the cab corner. Then use a dent puller to pull on the bolts. Then a cut off wheel to cut them off. I did this on a tail gate and it worked great. ...or you could buy a stud gun from Harbor Freight.
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Joined: Aug 2013
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If you want to use a stud welder you would need to get something like this. http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalo...6e95/p5115.jpg
Then I would recommend instead of using the slide hammer which can greatly fatigue the metal. I would suggest using a come a long to apply steady even pulling pressure. That way you minimize the stretching effect, and fatiguing of the metal. Also doing it this way will allow you to keep the steady pulling pressure and hammer the high spots around at the same time. If you do it right this will make for a very nice repair. Just be careful with the stud gun so that you don't hold the trigger to long and burn holes in the metal. Then you could have a real mess on your hands. Get it right though and you'll need a good low profile pair of side dyke wire cutters to simply twist the studs off the metal and be able to clean them up and reuse them later as needed. Other wise just simply cut behind the head of the stud and discard. The use a high speed sander a.k.a. grinder with a 50 grit wheel to smooth the studs down to perfection. Then fill, prime, and paint.
Then I would recommend instead of using the slide hammer which can greatly fatigue the metal. I would suggest using a come a long to apply steady even pulling pressure. That way you minimize the stretching effect, and fatiguing of the metal. Also doing it this way will allow you to keep the steady pulling pressure and hammer the high spots around at the same time. If you do it right this will make for a very nice repair. Just be careful with the stud gun so that you don't hold the trigger to long and burn holes in the metal. Then you could have a real mess on your hands. Get it right though and you'll need a good low profile pair of side dyke wire cutters to simply twist the studs off the metal and be able to clean them up and reuse them later as needed. Other wise just simply cut behind the head of the stud and discard. The use a high speed sander a.k.a. grinder with a 50 grit wheel to smooth the studs down to perfection. Then fill, prime, and paint.
informative. thanks man.
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