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I am putting a 300 6 in a 1956 f100 basket case. I bought this truck in pieces. I am going to have to rewire it all. I was looking at using a GM one wire alternator but now I am seeing a conversion kit to use the 1985 Ford alternator that came on my donor truck as a 1 wire, thus losing all the wiring for a voltage regulator, etc. Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks Greg
Curious about that conversion kit. Is it a voltage regulator that bolts to the back of an alternator? I installed a Delco 12Si in my '50 F-6. It was a snap.
The 1 wire GM need to be revved up to start charging. Not a huge deal but kind of annoying. 3G alternators are a good choice and start charging right away.
I have a gm style one wire alternator on a 429 big block motor. I had a Camaro that I put a one wire alternator on out of a Lincoln. I just had to change the pulley. It came with a serpentine pulley.
A one wire is very simple. The regulator is internal and is much more reliable.
The 1 wire GM need to be revved up to start charging. Not a huge deal but kind of annoying. 3G alternators are a good choice and start charging right away.
That is true only for 3-wire alternators converted to 1-wire. There are lots of 1-wires with a non-OEM regulator designed specifically for use as 1-wire and they kick off immediately.
I also am running a 1-wire, very satisfied with it. 12 years with no regulator or generator problems, woo-hoo! And my first 12v battery lasted 11 years.
The 1 wire GM need to be revved up to start charging. Not a huge deal but kind of annoying. 3G alternators are a good choice and start charging right away.
My 12Si Delco one-wire comes online instantaneously. I have the 254 six low-rev engine anyway so I used the smaller pulley.
Yes, I use a 1 wire GM-type alternator but on a V8 flathead. I'm assume that you have 12v negative ground? The voltage regulator is built in so you just need a wire with a fusible link from the battery to the alternator. You can remove the firewall mounted voltage regulator.
No fusible link for me. Opening that circuit while the alternator is at max amp output (assuming that's what would have popped the link - like a direct short to ground) will let all the smoke and fire out of the alternator. You need to have all of your accessories fused individually. I use an oil pressure activated alternator cut in/out relay to isolate it when the engine isn't running.
You will have to explain that one to me Bob. Opening a one wire circuit drops all current output to 0 doesn't it, as the regulator no longer sees any demand and has no power to activate the field even if there were any power to activate it.
The wiring in my truck was so bad and confusing to me, when I got it. So I just ordered a one wire 100 amp alternator (make ?) from the Speedway catalog, and a one wire HEI (made by Proform) from the Summit catalog, they were both listed as compatible to my 68 302. It all hooked up to my early 302 super easy and has been running for at least 10 years now. I don't know how this applies to your motor, but good luck