My big worry with a mastic like sealant -- or any goop is that it traps moisture and then cause rust.

My vehicle had a severe rust issue --- so everything was done to prolong the life of the vehicle even though rust have already started.


If you recall the anti-rust coatings that are basically a thick tar --- they also trapped moisture and corrosive agents like salt... with predictable results.

So a lot depends on your application --- and no matter what you do, apply vapor barriers on both sides if possible.

 

This soundproofing is all a waste of effort if you ask me. But you didn't ask me.

Anyway, it is a big deal to the audiophile guys. You can probably find a lot of info down in the Audio and Video forum. There was a user called Storm here who had a lengthy install thread right here in the Superduty forum, and you can find it if you search. But he has deleted all the photos so it isn't very useful any more. It might still have some resources noted. Suffice to say that there are products available for exactly this purpose. The engineering has been done.

 

Just doesn't sound right a quiet diesel engine. Love the clackity of the injectors and roar of the cooling fan pulling up a grade and that diesel smell like Chanel #5 to my nose..seriously i did cram some additional insulation under dash and it's very quiet to me..

 

Mine seems quiet enough at highway speeds. The motor quiets right down, and it seems as quiet to me when towing as my '04 F150 did. Of course, the Powerstroke is loping along where the 5.4L was screaming, so that is the main difference.

I don't believe the XL gets any less insulation than an XLT or Lariat. But the difference in upholstery probably makes a difference. Especially carpet versus vinyl.

 

At one point, I was driving around in a van with no rubber mats (front and back), no door trim, nothing except the dash and the roof trim.

That got me a pretty good idea of the baseline level of noise.

It ain't too nice to live with.

The biggest difference was made in insulating the front floor and doors.

Except for the whine noise from the tires --- that took insulating the rear wheel wells to quiet down.

 

Like what I think about ARP studs, and tunes, Magnaflow Turbo Back,Edge Insight, RhinoLiner,Retrax Cover, Cab Lights Retro-fit, Overhead Console Retro-fit, Bilsteins, Harpooned, C-Betrs,Fumoto, '08 Diff Cover, Upfitters Retro-fit, Fleetwood Pioneer,23'x5,200#so on.

"waste of effort" so to speak...

The difference with an audio application is whether climate control is an issue, and also what leeway there is to work with in terms of space, cost, etc.

 

There is a product its either lead or just a magnet type material like the signs you see on work trucks etc..... The stereo guys will know, you put chunks of in it to stop the vibrating sheet metal, then they will lock tight every nut and bolt in the car too. Simple no need to reinvent the wheel just use the same products that the 10k+ watt guys use.

 

Their application does nothing to deal with my issues, which include not only engine noise, but heat loss, and also, for a quiet room when I am parked right now, next to a noisy highway / parking lot, for the night.

I will go with my cheap sound pressure meter and what it tells me.

 

Gear missed that part on your post. You could undercoat it. Ive also seen the bedliner guys spray entire cars? Once again not a lot of insulation but would deffenatly make it last longer and quiet it down.

 

And where I am, such coatings will:

A) provide near zero thermal insulation

B) lose its compliant properties in cold

C) trap moisture

D) cause severe corrosion.

 

You could put a wood burning stove in it.

 

Hey Cartman, what brand of sound deadening was that? Is that comparable to Dynamat? Did you notice a decrease in road noise, and other vibrations? I was thinking about doing the deadening in my 09' F250 to reduce road noise, exhaust noise, and tighten up a stereo that I will be installing. Nothing crazy, I was going to upgrade all door speakers, the amp, and thought about doing 2 10's sealed. I wanted to do the firewall, doors, floor, and back wall with dynamat. But if you didn't see any dramatic results I won't waste my time and money.

 

I used B-Quiet Ultimate as the first layer, similar to Dynamat Extreme:
B-Quiet sound deadening materials - B-Quiet Ultimate - Better than Dynamat!! brownbread

The second layer is Ensolite, which I purchased from RAAMaudio, their RAAMmat is a very good product as well, similar to the B-Quiet and Dynamat:
Ensolite? IUO

I did notice a difference, but not huge. I have to say though, I haven't done the front door panels yet as I had to order more material, and I hear all the noise from those areas now. If I were you, do the doors first and see if you want to go further after that.

 

Thanks for the advice. I will start with the doors first. Did you have any issues with the clips that hold in the doors? I tend to break those stupid things often haha.

 

You'll like these doors. Pull off the sail panel on the inside of the mirror, remove the light/reflector cover at the bottom of the door and remove the 7mm bolt, lift up/disconnect the lock/switch panel and remove the 7mm bolt, lift the door panel straight up and off.