6.0 diesel noise suppression -- XLT vs. XL
#1
6.0 diesel noise suppression -- XLT vs. XL
I currently have an '06 F350XL with 6.0 PSD. My wife objects to the engine noise, esp. when towing our 31'/9000lb travel trailer. I'm sure when it comes time for a newer truck, if not sooner, she'll want me to get a gas-powered one, because of the noise.
Do the XLT trucks have more sound deadening? If so, is it significant? Maybe that would be my excuse to upgrade to an XLT
Do the XLT trucks have more sound deadening? If so, is it significant? Maybe that would be my excuse to upgrade to an XLT
#2
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: The Great State of Texas
Posts: 6,127
Received 1,447 Likes
on
893 Posts
I currently have an '06 F350XL with 6.0 PSD. My wife objects to the engine noise, esp. when towing our 31'/9000lb travel trailer. I'm sure when it comes time for a newer truck, if not sooner, she'll want me to get a gas-powered one, because of the noise.
Do the XLT trucks have more sound deadening? If so, is it significant? Maybe that would be my excuse to upgrade to an XLT
Do the XLT trucks have more sound deadening? If so, is it significant? Maybe that would be my excuse to upgrade to an XLT
I would think twice about going to a gas engine to tow a 31' travel trailer.
#3
Oh, trust me, I will stay with a Diesel for towing this trailer. I'm also considering adding what sound insulation I can to the truck I have.
#4
On my posts in the E-350 van forum, there is a fair number of posts on where the noise originates and how to abate it.
To do the job properly, you need a cheapie sound pressure meter and then about a week of serious, hard work.
I got the noise down to near gasser levels with the work done over 2 weeks.
Here are the big sources:
A) remove the entire interior and insulate the floor (especially the front portion with at least an added 1/2" of fiberglass or like accoustic deadening insulation.
Note -- you have to encase it in a vapor barrier or else the floor will rust, or moisture from the floor will get into it from the top.
Be sure you insuate the kick panels / tire well as that is a huge source of noise.
B) under the dash --- fill it with plastic bags with fiberglass.
C) Doors - remove panel and insulate between the plastic and metal on all 4 doors.
D) under hood ---add a fiberglass barrier on the engine side and everywhere you can on the sides of the engine.
This will get you started.
Additional insulation on sides of cab, rear, and roof can be done in like fashion.
Be sure you use vapor barriers properly and insulation do not trap moisture or rust.
To do the job properly, you need a cheapie sound pressure meter and then about a week of serious, hard work.
I got the noise down to near gasser levels with the work done over 2 weeks.
Here are the big sources:
A) remove the entire interior and insulate the floor (especially the front portion with at least an added 1/2" of fiberglass or like accoustic deadening insulation.
Note -- you have to encase it in a vapor barrier or else the floor will rust, or moisture from the floor will get into it from the top.
Be sure you insuate the kick panels / tire well as that is a huge source of noise.
B) under the dash --- fill it with plastic bags with fiberglass.
C) Doors - remove panel and insulate between the plastic and metal on all 4 doors.
D) under hood ---add a fiberglass barrier on the engine side and everywhere you can on the sides of the engine.
This will get you started.
Additional insulation on sides of cab, rear, and roof can be done in like fashion.
Be sure you use vapor barriers properly and insulation do not trap moisture or rust.
#6
I got the most bang for the buck doing the floor right beside the transmission and underneath the front seat and isolation from the front tires.
The second biggest impact is under the dashboard (in fact, I am adding more insulation there).
Then the rear tires / driveline --- but I have a van.
Think the under hood is a good thing, I actually bought the stuff to do it (fiberglass mesh to hold it there), and fiberglass batts and glue), but haven't got around to it yet.
My guess is from a raw (work truck), you can easily get it down by at least 3 to 6 dba just with these measures.
Above that, you are talking the cab, and decoupling.
Regular work if you ever worked silent service.
#7
More...
Your biggest source of noise is engine noise directly emitted and reflected from the road.
To give you an idea of how cheap Ford is, on mine, there was a tiny bit of sound insulation on the drivers side door, but nothing on the passenger side.
$200 of fiberglass, some plastic vapor barrier, and bags, and elbow grease to disassemble parts... does the job like Ford can never afford to do.
Your biggest source of noise is engine noise directly emitted and reflected from the road.
To give you an idea of how cheap Ford is, on mine, there was a tiny bit of sound insulation on the drivers side door, but nothing on the passenger side.
$200 of fiberglass, some plastic vapor barrier, and bags, and elbow grease to disassemble parts... does the job like Ford can never afford to do.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#11
#12
#13