Found a reference to a "10k mod" somehow on the net, looked it up more and came across c00nhunters post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...on-my-10k.html

So i jumped to the 15.6K mod and i felt more power but saw no smoke. I drove not even 1/4 mile jumped out and swapped to my 22K I made. I LOVE the power but still no smoke. Only a rough idle once in a while and when i let off the fuel and push the clutch in sometimes it will auto rev my RPMS up about another 300-500.

I know the Mod is just a band-aid for a tuner, but 99 cents is much cheaper then $350-$600. The only thing i dont like is in the past 2 days ive watched my fuel gauge move down in what i normally do in a week! Other then that is there any other problems this mod could drive to the surface? Im scared if elevated EGTs and such...

 

Before doing ANY mods, you should have gauges. That is, unless money to replace the components is no object.

 

That's typically better suited for the OBS trucks. I don't know about EGT's, but you'll likely notice a rougher idle.

 

Not to highjack but what is this mod doing to really gain power?

 

It fools the ECM into believing its HPOP ipressure is too low for the conditions in the fueling table, skewing the IPR pressure upward, meaning the fuel is injected with higher pressure oil, and if the injector pulse width is the same, more fuel in shoved into the cylinder.

Pop

 

Like a lot of people I see who crank up the distributor from say 6 deg to 10 deg. Sure, you get more advance at some point but you have just bumped up timing THROUGHOUT the curve. A chip would address the increase where you need it and where you don't, it takes it out.

 

Increasing the injection control pressure can slightly advance the start of combustion due to a slightly more atomized fuel plume from the nozzle holes because the smaller droplets are easier/faster to ignite. Not to be confused with start of injection which is usually referred to as "timing" and when the PCM commands the injector to begin spraying fuel into the combustion chamber in relation to piston orientation in the cylinder.

Aftermarket tuning-caused advanced start of injection DOES NOT always mean an advanced start of combustion. However, all else remaining constant, the fuel will usually ignite sooner due to an increase in SOI.

There is only one real drawback to running an in-line module or a resistor on the injection control pressure circuit. The high pressure oil pump is working harder all of the time (except at idle with the better "boxes" out there that monitor the idle validation switch). This causes premature wear and eventual failure of the high pressure oil pump because it is always creating more pressure than it would be stock. Granted, aftermarket tuning increases injection control pressure a bit, but it's not at every operating range and it's not all the time.

Increasing the injection control pressure, whether in the tuning or by fooling the injection control pressure sensor input to the PCM, is usually a good way to pick up a bit of economy and add a bit of snap to the accelerator pedal. It's not going to add a ton of power but it's not going to hurt the engine a bit to run a few hundred extra PSI of injection pressure.

 

Cody,

In rep time out witcha' or you'da got some.

Good quality post!

Pop

 

is it the higher the number the more resistance?

 

yeah i am confused on this, i have heard both ways now, some say the higher you go like he did with the 22k the more power and ive heard the lower you go the more power..

 

But what happens when you hit a part of the curve that does not need the pressure at that point? Like I mentioned with the distributor advance. Yes, at some point in the curve, it might be able to use that extra timing. What about the other points where it isn't useful or even bad?

IMO, for $75, I can have a safer program that sets it up right and the shift points the way I want. I don't really see this as a very cost effective mod. Lower initial cost, yes. Long run, I'm not sure.

 

Pretty much. 2000 Ohms is more than 1000 Ohms and less than 3000 Ohms. 10K is basically 10000 Ohms as I see it.