Heres' the problem: I have a 1994 F-150 XL with a 300 I6 and the steering box is leaking horribly....I am thinking it is gonna be a minor resealing issu....but I am needing to know how to remove the box, take it apart, reseal it and put it back in......

I really appreciate you guys-

-Wes

 

Removing the box from the truck is pretty straight forward. Take loose what needs to be taken loose. I suggest some good quality flare nut wrenches to take the fluid lines loose so you don't round them off and have a mess. I would use a pickle fork to take the steering linkage loose from the pitman arm. I had a terrible time getting pitman arm off my '94, I had to take the box to a welding shop and have them remove it.

As far as replacing the seals, Ford sells seal kits, one for the upper and one for the lower. Not too expensive, I suggest genuine Ford. Don't try to use up all the parts in the kit. As far as getting the old seals out, punch a hole in it and pry it out or turn a screw in it and pull it out, use your imagination. Good luck.

 

You don't need to remove the box from the truck to replace the seals. I don't have the directions, but it's possible to just change the seals. Try a search.

If you can spend the extra money on it, just get a new steering box. I just put one in my Bronco and the steering is as tight as new. I bought my steering box from Red-Head Steering Gears, Seattle WA - Red-Head Steering Gears Home.

The tool to remove the pitman arm from the box is called a pitman arm puller. You can rent one at the parts store.

 

Good advice from 88. However if it is a leak from the pitman shaft seal it is quite often possible to replace that seal with the box in place.

 

You need a puller to remove the pitman arm. it comes off nice and easy with the right tool, as do most things. DO NOT use a pickle fork to remove the drag link from the pitman arm. If you do, you'll end up tearing the rubber boot and then will be replacing the joint also. Use a press or turn the castle nut over upside down and thread it on a few turns. then, using a bfh, give it a good smack. The puller is still your best option though.

 

I had a heck of time getting pitman arm off the shaft. I have several pullers and because back of arm is beveled; it required yet another puller and heat from torch. Took several hours of "heated" work. The reman boxes may not be the best. I went through two from Advance. They were sloppy and leaked at the hoses and lines from seats recut too deeply. Take them back until you get a good one. Use the source mentioned above; it has been recommended in many threads.

 

Ok guys here;s the scoop on whats went down so far:

1-I did in fact use a pickle fork to undo the drag link from the Pitman arm; But I took the skid plat off so I could turn the fork in any direction and still get some good taps in-It fell right off.

2-I removed the 2 hoses from the PUMP, reason being it allows for more moving around.

3-I successfully ripped both metal hoses from the top of the steering box due to the fittings rusting to the hose, I later found that Advance sell replaces for ONLY $29.95 and $19.95, the re-seal kit itsself is only $8.50 from Car-Quest, and now I need another boot for two reasons
A-I tore the hell out of the existing one
B-It needed replacing anyways.....

Only thing left to do is take the bolt out of the steering shaft, and yes its a PITA....And remove the 3 longer than needed bolts from the frame....

Again Thanks all, Its really helping in this case of DKS......When I get my tax returns I am replacing the inner/outer tierod ends, sleeves, idler and pitman arms, and the drag link bars.....and possibly replace the box in general.....

-Wes

P.S-You guys are the best...

 

Air tools make the difference.

 

Yes they do....As I do not have a garage, save for my front yard, I never invested in them....lol