I have a 1977 ford f150 4x4 automatic, removing the steering gear hopefully won't be an issue, so once I have it out I need to reseal some of it. It is leaking fluid out the top input seal where the steering shaft connects, I'll also replace the seal on the bottom under the pitman arm. Is there a quick easy way to do such so I don't have to take apart the whole box? the box works fine. Any videos? and or quick tricks? Oh this is a Ford type gear box

 

Anyone replaced the seals without disassembling the box? I've seen some videos where they use 2 screws to back the seals out?

 

DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE BOX!!! You don't need to and will regret it very quickly of you do take it apart.
Yes, you can replace the seals externally. It can be done with the box in the truck, but is easier with the box sitting on the bench.
The two sheetmetal screws are screwed into the seals 180° apart. These are used to pry the seals out.
Here's an exploded diagram of the steering box.

 

I have tinkered with the input seal on a spare 2wd box I have to see how hard it is to remove and replace so I can fix the tight box in my pickup. I don't have pics. I took a awl and drove it into the seal and worked it out.It wasn't hard at all. I bought a seal kit from Napa it was around 14 bucks. I have heard don't know how true it is hope someone chims in. If the input seal is leaking there is more problem inside than just the seal. I don't know though. But long story short it is not hard to change the seal. Hope that helps. Good luck and hope someone shares more info.

 

You're right, it's not hard to change the seals. On the input, there's a dust shield, a snap ring, seal, spacer, then another seal.
As I recall, there are also two seals in output shaft also.
As for the "more problems inside", what that is isn't the input shaft, it's the output shaft. This is a design flaw. There is no bearing or bushing in the housing for the output shaft to ride on. It rides directly on the cast iron housing. If there is enough wear for the shaft to be loose, then replacing the seal won't do a lot of good, it will start leaking again in short order.

 

there is a slow stead stream that starts to come out below where the rag joint is, I believe this is the input shaft? this truck sat for 8 years and every seal I've had to replace that has leaked was rock hard, I don't think it has play but I'll check when it's out, the seal kit is only 13 bucks for the output and input seals and I don't want to take it apart, just want to replace the seals, if replacing the seals doesn't fix it, a new box it is

 

Can't the output seal be blown out by starting the truck (pitman arm removed) and cranking it left or right?

 

dunno, but my truck is entirely to clean to blow fluid all over it.

 

If you go this route, do yourself a favor: Redhead.
https://www.redheadsteeringgears.com...FVM6gQodNQANEg
The chain store "rebuilds" are the so-called "spray and pray" rebuilt. The actual hard parts needed to rebuild these boxes haven't been available for years, the chain store rebuilts are actually just resealed units.
Redhead actually machines their own parts and they also add bearings to the sector (output) shaft to cure the design flaw these boxes have.

 

sounds expensive........any idea what the cost is and or experience with them? Also given the fact I'm on the east cost and they are on the west coast, shipping alone may kill me

 

I bought mine a few years ago and it was around $250, I figure they've probably gone up since then. I live in Florida and the UPS was around $50.
Search and you'll find tons of feedback here on Redhead, probably 95% of it very good.
In fact, every now and then, members here get together and do a "group buy" from Redhead.

 

That's it? so they sell ready to go ones and no need to send mine back as a core?

 

They can send you one from stock, but there is a core charge. I sent mine to them to be rebuilt. Turnaround was little over a week, start to finish.

 

So I removed the gear last night and brought it into work this morning and took out the seals, not that bad to do with drilling holes and backing the seals out with screws, worked great. The lower out put seal kit from Autozone was 13.00 and it is a tad different set up...OEM was lower seal. spacer, upper seal, spacer, snap ring, New set up per instructions is small I.D machined spacer, lower seal, dust seal, Larger I.D machined spacer and snap ring......It all fit perfect, and hopefully won't leak. Installing it this evening..........OH and the upper input seal was rock hard when I removed it so hopefully the new seals will cure the leaks, I didn't feel any play in the shafts, the box felt tight/good! So stay tuned for update tonight!!

 

With no play, you should be good to go.
They might supply that second spacer to space the seal out a little bit in case the shaft is worn, moves the seal to an unworn area.