EEC Self Test Codes - What Do I have Here??
#1
EEC Self Test Codes - What Do I have Here??
did the EEC self test and got a list of codes. I should first explain that my passenger side exhaust manifold has a crack in it, and I am in the process of saving my money to have a new one put on. Obviously some of the codes are related to that. So....
112 - TPS Circuit below .6 Volts (the truck likes to go into high-idle when its warmed up and the CEL comes on. I think its related to this? new TPS sensor should fix this)
128 - MAP sensor vacuum was not greater than 2 in-Hg (7 kPa) during normal vehicle operation. (I knocked a vacuum line off when I was changing my plugs and didn't realize I had done so until after I started the truck. I pluged it back in right away)
172 - HEGO Sensor lean on right side (assuming this has to do with the exhaust leak)
173 - HEGO Sensor rich on right side (also assuming the exhaust leak)
212 - Loss of IDM input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded (I hooked the jumper wire for the self test up wrong the frst time. thinking it has to do with this?)
452 - Computer detected and error in the USS or POSM signla durring the last 8 war up cycles (what the hell is this???)
542 - Fuel Pump Circuit Failure (my rear gas tank is rotted out and the fuel pump doesn't work to the best of my knowledge)
657 - Transmission Over Temperature (had the output speed sensor go bad on me a while ago and the transmission was doing somne funky things on ther way to the shop which I'm sure caused it to heat up. Had the fluid and filter changed as a precaution when I had the new sensor installed.)
So basically, I'd like to know if installing a nee throttle posistion sensor will solve the high-idle thing and take care of code 112, and what does code 452 mean and how can I fix it? Thanks!
112 - TPS Circuit below .6 Volts (the truck likes to go into high-idle when its warmed up and the CEL comes on. I think its related to this? new TPS sensor should fix this)
128 - MAP sensor vacuum was not greater than 2 in-Hg (7 kPa) during normal vehicle operation. (I knocked a vacuum line off when I was changing my plugs and didn't realize I had done so until after I started the truck. I pluged it back in right away)
172 - HEGO Sensor lean on right side (assuming this has to do with the exhaust leak)
173 - HEGO Sensor rich on right side (also assuming the exhaust leak)
212 - Loss of IDM input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded (I hooked the jumper wire for the self test up wrong the frst time. thinking it has to do with this?)
452 - Computer detected and error in the USS or POSM signla durring the last 8 war up cycles (what the hell is this???)
542 - Fuel Pump Circuit Failure (my rear gas tank is rotted out and the fuel pump doesn't work to the best of my knowledge)
657 - Transmission Over Temperature (had the output speed sensor go bad on me a while ago and the transmission was doing somne funky things on ther way to the shop which I'm sure caused it to heat up. Had the fluid and filter changed as a precaution when I had the new sensor installed.)
So basically, I'd like to know if installing a nee throttle posistion sensor will solve the high-idle thing and take care of code 112, and what does code 452 mean and how can I fix it? Thanks!
#2
Well being as you're not real sure if you caused some of those codes or not, would depend on if it was driven or not, you might be better off clearing the codes and driving it for a few miles and then checking for codes again.
That depends on the codes you got KOEO CM or KOER too, knocking a vac line off then putting it right back on would not trigger a code that fast, unless of course you drove it with the line off for a ways.
So I I where you I'd disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or so then reconnect it to clear all codes. Then start the truck and let it get to operating temperature, don't drive it, then turn it off. Now with it up to temp run the KOEO (key on, engine off) test, if it gets a 111 take it for a ride for several miles say 15 or so. Now trigger the self test again and see what you get.
If you do not get a system pass "111" when you run the KOEO self test but instead you get error code or codes you must correct any and all of those first before taking it for a ride. If anything fails during that test, it will fail when driving the truck guaranteed.
That depends on the codes you got KOEO CM or KOER too, knocking a vac line off then putting it right back on would not trigger a code that fast, unless of course you drove it with the line off for a ways.
So I I where you I'd disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or so then reconnect it to clear all codes. Then start the truck and let it get to operating temperature, don't drive it, then turn it off. Now with it up to temp run the KOEO (key on, engine off) test, if it gets a 111 take it for a ride for several miles say 15 or so. Now trigger the self test again and see what you get.
If you do not get a system pass "111" when you run the KOEO self test but instead you get error code or codes you must correct any and all of those first before taking it for a ride. If anything fails during that test, it will fail when driving the truck guaranteed.
#5
#6
Automatic is the E4OD.
As far as the codes it depends, did it pass the KOEO test before you took it for a ride?
If it did not you must correct all KOEO faults first before you proceed, if you do not you are wasting your time jumping ahead.
Either way you must give us the section of the self test the codes you get are from, be it "KOEO" "CM" or "KOER". The cause of any given code relates to what aspect the fault was determined or stored under. If you are counting the flashes, triggering the self test with a jumper wire, I know its tough to do that way and note the separator code at the same time but it is important you get them right.
KOEO = Key On Engine Off
CM = Continues Memory
KOER = Key On Engine Running
For example if code 112 was given under "CM" it could be the cause of most your problems, however if it was given during the KOEO test it probably is not. One problem, one bad sensor can trigger more codes as a domino effect.
542 could be something as simple as a bad ground up on the upper intake, a leaking tank and bad fuel pump should not or would not trigger that one.
As far as the codes it depends, did it pass the KOEO test before you took it for a ride?
If it did not you must correct all KOEO faults first before you proceed, if you do not you are wasting your time jumping ahead.
Either way you must give us the section of the self test the codes you get are from, be it "KOEO" "CM" or "KOER". The cause of any given code relates to what aspect the fault was determined or stored under. If you are counting the flashes, triggering the self test with a jumper wire, I know its tough to do that way and note the separator code at the same time but it is important you get them right.
KOEO = Key On Engine Off
CM = Continues Memory
KOER = Key On Engine Running
For example if code 112 was given under "CM" it could be the cause of most your problems, however if it was given during the KOEO test it probably is not. One problem, one bad sensor can trigger more codes as a domino effect.
542 could be something as simple as a bad ground up on the upper intake, a leaking tank and bad fuel pump should not or would not trigger that one.
#7
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Good chance your TPS is bad, change it out and make sure it's set for about 0.9v with the throttle closed. Then clear the codes by disconnecting the self test jumper as the codes are being flashed, and take it for a few more drive cycles to see what remains, my guess is that will clear everything except 542.
See www.fordfuelinjection.com for more info on the sensors.
See www.fordfuelinjection.com for more info on the sensors.
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I got a new TPS from my work, and I keep getting conflicting info on if I have to adjust this thing once I put it on or not. I really dont see how there is a way to even adjust it. Can someone please clarify this so I can go put this thing together? thanks. Again, truck is a 1995 F-520 351
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