door jamb switches for dome light
#1
door jamb switches for dome light
I removed the switch and there is no wire connected to it. I believe it is causing an electrical problem. Wipers run slow and heater blower runs slower than normal. Slammed passenger door hard the other day and wipers and heater blower started running fast, which is to say normal. I've had this problem for about ten months and just now figured that the loose wire in door jamb may be causing the problem. Does anyone know how to get to the wire so I can repair it? Thanks in advance. Dennis.
#2
Nothing to do with AC/Heater. Different circuit. Dome lights, cigar lighter, and on some the radio are all on that circuit. The wire is probably there but you will need to check under the dash where it feeds up into the door above the lower interior cowl vents. I am guessing your dome lights don't work? Unless someone has modified the wiring to take out that switch and to control by only using dash headlight switch. With that missing dome light shouldn't come on when the door is opened.
#3
Dome light switch
Nothing to do with AC/Heater. Different circuit. Dome lights, cigar lighter, and on some the radio are all on that circuit. The wire is probably there but you will need to check under the dash where it feeds up into the door above the lower interior cowl vents. I am guessing your dome lights don't work? Unless someone has modified the wiring to take out that switch and to control by only using dash headlight switch. With that missing dome light shouldn't come on when the door is opened.
#4
You can pull the courtesy light fuse, and see if the other problems still exist. That will take the courtesy light circuit out of the picture. Just as a side note, if a full 12 volts grounds out, it should blow an automotive fuse almost instantly. It won't drain the battery without blowing the fuse like you are assuming. It should pop right away.
#5
Dome light switch
You can pull the courtesy light fuse, and see if the other problems still exist. That will take the courtesy light circuit out of the picture. Just as a side note, if a full 12 volts grounds out, it should blow an automotive fuse almost instantly. It won't drain the battery without blowing the fuse like you are assuming. It should pop right away.
#6
What you said is exactly what I thought also. I just have no other explanation for why slamming the door closed should make the wipers and heater return to normal speeds. I have replaced the alternator, starter, voltage reg., alt. belt and checked many wires and grounds. I'm not an auto mechanic but I do have some knowledge. I'm just at a loss to explain what is happening. Thanks for your help. I will remove the fuse for the courtesy light circuit and see if the problem goes away.
#7
loose grounds
I removed the ground for the heater blower motor and wire wheeled the firewall to bare metal. I then re-attached the ground. It's clean and tight. I do not know where the wiper motor ground is but I guess I will have to find it. It is highly unlikely that closing the door hard would affect both grounds. Thanks for your help. I will check further. Dennis.
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#9
checking grounds
The battery to engine is clean and tight. I replaced the starter this past summer. It's fine. I guess I do need to check the engine to firewall ground. Still suspicious that the door jamb switch is not connected to anything on the pass. side and there must be a loose wire in there somewhere. Thanks for the suggestions. Dennis.
#10
The wires should be green/yellow and black/blue. They should snake behind the dash and go through above the cowl vents in the kick panel. The heater and wiper motor are both on different circuits as is the door jamb/dome light switches. Also tap into the thick gauge dark brown wire coming from the 30a fuse in the fuse panel and give us a voltage reading. This is the power for the heater motor. Check again at the motor and get reading. The wiper motor get power from the wiper switch...check the voltage of the orange/white wire before going into the wiper switch, and then check the red, and white/orange coming out of the wiper switch going to the wiper motor and get voltage readings. Just curious as to your voltage readings on those wires.
#11
voltage checks
The wires should be green/yellow and black/blue. They should snake behind the dash and go through above the cowl vents in the kick panel. The heater and wiper motor are both on different circuits as is the door jamb/dome light switches. Also tap into the thick gauge dark brown wire coming from the 30a fuse in the fuse panel and give us a voltage reading. This is the power for the heater motor. Check again at the motor and get reading. The wiper motor get power from the wiper switch...check the voltage of the orange/white wire before going into the wiper switch, and then check the red, and white/orange coming out of the wiper switch going to the wiper motor and get voltage readings. Just curious as to your voltage readings on those wires.
#12
Join Date: Jul 2004
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This is correct, AFTER the fuse panel 1973-1977.
or AFTER the Ignition switch 1978-1979.
They are on the same circut before those respected components above. Could be a dirty connection at the ignition switch perhaps. Yellow wire.
Still thinking this is a ground issue, as both components share the same common ground. The Firewall.
or AFTER the Ignition switch 1978-1979.
They are on the same circut before those respected components above. Could be a dirty connection at the ignition switch perhaps. Yellow wire.
Still thinking this is a ground issue, as both components share the same common ground. The Firewall.
#13
Thanks to all
The (single) dome light does work with the headlight switch and used to work with the drivers door-jamb switch. I started having a dead battery problem and tried to track down the reason why. I think the wire to the passenger door switch might be grounding out without blowing the fuse and causing a drain on the battery and thereby slowing down the wipers and heater blower. The switch for the dome light in the passenger door has been removed by me because it was stuck closed. When I removed it I found there was no wire connected to it. I think I need to know how to get to the wire so I can repair it or at least temporarily tape it up so it's not grounding out, if that's my problem. Thanks for your info. Dennis.
Thanks to all who responded to my problem. It turned out to be the clip that plugs into the voltage regulator. It was rusted/corrode and I'm too blind to have noticed. It randomly made contact and just as randomly stopped making contact.
But because of all of your help, I found and fixed several other things.
Thanks again.
Dennis
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