I don't know the difference in safety, but I went to a hitch shop that's ol they do and they told me not to use a bolt on hitch because is unsafe and the metal around the bolt breaks, and you know what happens next?
You truck goes one way and the trailer the other
I'm sure they just want my business.
They said $200+ for a weld on hitch, so what do you people think should I buy a bolt on and save $100, or go for the weld, do you think these hitch guys are full of it and the bolt on is the same thing?
How strong is the frame of a 2000 Ranger 3.0L 4x2 xtra cab to use a bolt on?
What the manufacturer install in these trucks bolts or weld?
Help me out to be safe on the road , remember you could be driving behind my trailer!

 

Go with the bolts, they are going to be as strong and will be transferrable to another truck if disired, bolts are what the factory uses

 

I might worry if you were driving a 1 ton truck and about to haul 10,000+ lbs on a pull behind trailer. But for us and our Rangers, we could never touch the break point of the bolts since in combination they'd hold together stronger then ANY pressure you could make the Ranger give them. They are true in circumstances, but this isnt one of them.

 

Thanks!
I'm not planning to pull more than 2000 lbs total, so I guess bolts are fine, you guys think the rear frame on these rangers are thick and strong enough to support that much weight?
One more thing, how many bolts are total in the bolt on hitches for the Rangers ?
About the welding, do they weld the whole hitch to the frame in most cases or just the area where the bolts attach to the frame?

 

Benaghetto,

Did you buy yours yet?
I thought you were looking for a hitch for your truck, did you find one ?

 

Ya got me. I have not yet. Or at least havent decided on spending the money for the one that'll fit the way I want (Hidden Hitch). I just found one that'll end in 2 days, maybe it'll work out in my favor. I'm wanting to get a rollpan and dont want a big ol' hitch hanging out since I still want to tow my boat and seadoo around.

The hitches use 6 total bolts on the frame. If you're in doubt of their strength get some grade 8 bolts and dont even think twice about them!

 

I'm going to outbid you! just kidding!



How good are the bolts that come with the hitch?

 

I have had 3 Rangers that all have had a bolted in class III receiver. I tow a 2000lb boat and trailer very often, sometimes tow a 3500lb boat and trailer (normally on a 200 mile round trip). I have never, ever had any issues with a bolted in hitch. While sure it might be a better, but I really think those guys were blowing smoke straight up...well you get my point. It's a ranger not a F-350......bolted in will be just fine. I understand being carefull - but either those guys are just trying to get your buisness and make some money, or they are the most cautious hitch shop I have ever heard of. I would call one of the hitch places that are chains (like master hitch, u-haul, or trailer wheel and frame) and ask there opinion just for grins, tell them exactly what you have and what you are towing and what this other shop told you, I am curious what there response will be -

 

My F350 had a Reese Titan class V hitch (10k rating) that was bolted in. The bolts aren't the weakest link in the chain, nor is the metal surrounding them. The draw bar pin, the trailer tongue coupler bolts, or the ball itself are likelier the weaker areas. Most hitches are designed to be bolted in, and welding one not designed to be welded could result in failure if not done properly. Save the money and bolt it in yourself. I have personally towed 11k with a bolt on hitch with an F150. The hitch wasn't what scared me about that ride!

 

there's a few good reasons not to weld the hitch to the frame, you could take the temper out of the steel and make the frame weaker, if not treates and painted the frame will rust where it was welded, suppose you get rear-ended sometime and the hitch is damaged, its alot more work to change out a welded on hitch. use as many bolts as there are mounting points for of the right grade and you'll be fine. ive seen some hitches use a steel plate on the inside of the framerail where the mounting bolt goes thru to re-inforce the frame a bit. seems like i have to re-paint mine every spring, seems like the steel isnt clean enough when they paint them at the factory.

 

Thanks guys bolted will be.
BTW, U haul wants $180 classIII installed, not welded.
My other doubt is the spare tire how do I know if the hitch I'm buying is not going to
be in the way of the spare tire? some hitch are straight and others are curb like it has the shape to clear the spare, or it's just a hidden hitch they ol fit the Ranger, but if I buy the wrong one in the web, like eBay there's no returns. I'm confused?

 

Have them proove it to you after the install. The can gently force/adjust things to ensure they work - just make them prove it works when you are done -

 

I got a curved class 3 hitch. Bolted in with 6 bolts, torqued to 100 lb/ft. Lowered the spare slightly to ease installation.

Something to think about, 5th wheels on semis are bolted on. Pintle hitches on dump trucks are bolted on. Tow truck bodies are bolted onto tow trucks. Truck mounted cranes are bolted on to truck frames. Not a lot of welded installations. Yeah, there are welded fabrications, but those fabrications are bolted to the installation.

 

Usually the hitch company will make a note on a hitch for our trucks about needing a 19mm open end wrench to still be able to access the spare if need be. I've been contemplating relocating the spare with the hitch install. Just grind off the 2 rivets on each side of the main arm for the spare and move the whole shebang up. It cant be overly complicated.

 

That's not good!
Isn't this hitch supposed to fit without cutting, drilling, or relocating the spare inside the cab ?LOL.
I want to keep the spare where it is now and not on the bed of the truck, the hitch manufacturer must know the spare is under the bumper, if we have to modify our trucks to make it fit, it's just not the right hitch?
BTW, what rivets are you talking about?

That's why I think the curvy shaped hitch will fit perfect without the headache.
I think it's kind of round like a C shape to clear the spare, so we better stay away from the straight shaped hitch.
If you don't know which one I'm talking about let me know and I search for a pix.