Always something !!! Has anyone replaced ignition switch...or put it on the dash....Mine is hard to turn..sticks, etc...Any help ?...Thanks...j

 

They aren't too bad to do. You have to drop the column down a bit. If you have an automatic, keep in mind there is a little cable that attaches to the right side of the column, if you don't disconnect it, it will damage it. The ignition switch itself is just under the dash, held by two screws. Simply take them off, the switch comes off the control rod from the key. To put it on, make sure the key is in the off position, and then place the new switch over the control rod, bolt the switch down, and hook up the wires. Then it should be in place and ready to work.

 

Make sure the switch is installed in the same spot. The rod can get bent and the key/lock cylinder can get dirty inside. Also, the gear set that drives the rod from the key switch, steering wheel lock and gear selector can get dirty/worn etc.

 

Thanks ...........jv

 

Sometimes a bit of WD in the key slot helps but it's not hard unless you have a tilt wheel. Then getting it back in the same spot is a bit harder for sure, at least it was for me.

 

Is it your switch under the steering collumn or your ignition tumbler that is sticking if it is the tumbler it is common on these trucks for them to get alittle tight when its cold out and a little bit of silicone spray will help.Spay some in and on it and work it back and forth and see if it will loosen up.I have to do mine every winter.

 

Dry Graphite is the MOST recommended solution to ANY lock sticking problem, however the key could also be worn to the point where it looks like its a knife, or the cuts are smooth and rounded. IF your key looks like this, the lock either needs replacing or rekeyed (some locks the fit the ignition also fits the outside locks)

Spraying WD-40 is OK as long as there is a moisture problem in the lock, (Outside locks that has been through a car wash or was washed before a freezing weather condition) BUT...as soon as the weather is above freezing respray the inside of the lock with any type of graphical lube. Never put lube in any lock. (It introduces or attracts airborned dirt (gravel roads, passing gravel trucks, other weather conditions...which over time will quickly cause your lock not to work and premature failure) Any Certified locksmith could rekey any lock to your exsisting key just like it came from the factory.

 

If you don't mind doing electrical, a dash mounted switch (although less secure in terms of theft) runs about $7. Replacing the oft broken actuator is $12. I opted to simplify. It is really easy to undo 3 screws and replace for $7 and not have to tear into the column any more. Although I did tear into the column to remove the steering lock so I didn't have to leave the old key zip tied in the old ignition. It will be a bigger pain to move it in the short go, but save trouble (maybe in the middle of nowhere) later.

 

1984 Ford Econo 350 van, automatic and tilt steering, and cannot insert ignition key to place tumbler in "on " position to remove damaged ignition switch. (keyway passage blocked, corroded). I carefully drilled out release pin, saw a little more movement, but lock cylinder assembly won't come out. Do I have to take off steering wheel to remove ignition switch? Any other helpful hints?

 

1984 Ford Econo 350 van, automatic and tilt steering, and cannot insert ignition key to place tumbler in "on " position to remove damaged ignition switch. (keyway passage blocked, corroded). I carefully drilled out release pin, saw a little more movement, but lock cylinder assembly won't come out. Do I have to take off steering wheel to remove ignition switch? Any other helpful hints? - Thanks, 4wheelman

 

Yes, remove the wheel and then it will come out.

 

Thanks Chiefrider007. I emailed "justask.com" and for $15.00 and got an answer back within two hours from Ford certified mechanic on six printed pages. Thanks for your response Chiefrider007. I was feeling shaken, but not stirred. (ha, ha, 007)