[updated:LAST EDITED ON 30-Jul-02 AT 11:03 AM (EST)] Well, it happened. I'd had 3"-4" of play in my steering wheel after adjusting all that I could.
Yesterday I came home on a hook. As I made a hard left into a parking, lot she popped. The steering wheel will turn left, but if I turn the wheel right, the shaft seems to "unscrew."
A few questions:
1) What's the best shop manual I can get to guide me through this?
2) I have seen the rebuild kits for about $250, versus rebuilt boxes @ over $500. Money is tight, $250 is gonna hurt, any speacial tools I need to rebuild this myself? (i hope I didn't crack the box when she came apart)
3) Even better, any of y'all that have put in IFS/power steering have the old box gathering dust in your garage??

Any tips or tricks on this would be appreciated......ALOT!

Thanks-

 

Can't advise on IFS/PS upgrade but if you just want your box to be like new I've just finished rebuilding my 1956 and it's just about identical to the earlier models. I'm assuming here that the casting is still OK and the only parts that need to be replaced are the wear parts. The following list is what I bought right out of the JobLot Automotive (800-221-0172 ask for James) 2002 catalog to rebuild mine. (In the list below I substituted the 1948/1952 part numbers and prices for the 1956 part numbers and prices to make it easier for you)

21A-3738 Felt Seal.................................$ 1.00
7RC-3575-X Replacement Sector Roller and Pin.......$ 59.95
7HC-3524-X Replacement Worm Gear...................$ 49.95
68-3571 Worm Gear Bearing (2 required).............$ 11.50 (for pair)
78-3576 Sector Shaft Bushing (2 required)..........$ 5.00 (for pair)
7RC-3581 Sector Shart Housing Cover Gasket.........$ 1.00
B-3593 End Plate Gaskets/Shims.....................$ 0.75 (may need several in different thicknesses)
B-3552 Upper Bearing Race/Cup......................$ 6.95
B-3553 Lower Bearing Race/Cup......................$ 12.95
B7J-3577A Adjuster Screw...........................$ 5.95
78-3579 Adjuster Screw Washer......................$ 1.95
8A-3591 Sector Shaft Housing Oil Seal..............$ 2.50
Total............................................. .$159.45

You probably don't need everything listed above. I inspected my worm gear bearings, sector shaft bushings, upper and lower bearing race/cups, and adjuster screw and washer and found they were all in good shape so I returned the replacement parts to save about $44. In the end it cost me a little over $100 for the parts.

As far as doing the work the only tough job is removing and pressing on the new worm gear. I have a home-built press that makes that kind of job easy. The other option is to get the entire shaft with the worm gear already pressed on (7HC-3524) for $119 instead of the worm gear only for $49.95. Otherwise, the job can't be too difficult since I did it successfully. ;-)

The 1956 shop manual shows all I needed to see but I don't know about the earlier shop manuals.

George

 

Thanks, great information Earl. I assume this is why my column is trying to "unscrew" when I turn the wheel to the right? Do I pull the box w/ shaft attatched out thru the bottom?
Thanks again,

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 31-Jul-02 AT 00:24 AM (EST)]Eric,
Your 51 is the same as my 48. I bought the 250 kit which included the worm gear attached to a new shaft, but the other parts are the same as George indicated.

The box and shaft come up thru the floor and out the door -- unless you have access to a lift.

Only technical part is using a 4" grinder to remove the welds that hold the sector roller pin in the sector housing, and then installing the new pin (axle) and re-welding it enough to keep it from moving. You'll see what you have to do when you get it apart.


I just read your other posts. If you took all the adjustment out of the sector roller you may have pushed it past the worm gear. Or worst case is the sector roller shaft/housing may have broken, dropping a piece into the worm gear. If you find that is broken you may as well buy that used gearbox. Sector roller housing/shafts are like hen's teeth. The 48 - 52 F1's all use the Gemmer 3 box.

If I had to guess what you'll find, I'd say it sounds like the worm gear upper bearing may have slipped or crushed, allowing the shaft to move upward. Let us know what you find.
Tim

 

Thanks Tim, I'm waiting on a phone call as I may be able to get what I need free. Do you know if a 1-ton will fit? I was told the possible donor truck is a '51 1-ton. F2? I hope 'cause I beleive '48-'52 F1 & F2 all used the same box, shaft and pitman....
Thanks to everyone for the tips!

 

According to the shop manual, all those trucks use a similar gearbox that varies in size, method of attachment to the frame, and type of roller construction.

F1, 2, and 3 all use the same single row needle sector roller bearing.
F4 thru F8 use a double row needle sector roller bearing.

If you have a F2 box it should swap. If it is a 1 ton (F4) then you'll just have to try it.

 

Okay thanks mtflat. I'm still waiting on that phone call. Isn't an F-3 the 1 ton?
I sure appreciate everyones help and guidance!

 

No, on the tonnage rating, according to Ford Truck manuals:

F1 - half ton
F2 - 3/4T
F3 - 3/4T HD
F4 - 1 T
F5 - 1 1/2 T
F6 - 2 T
F7 - 2 1/2 T
F8 - 3 T

Good luck with your gearbox - it would be worth your while to pull it and see if it's worth rebuilding.

 

Well, I've found a '52 F1 box, column and steering wheel for $50, 160 miles away, the guy says "No play, and feels good from stop to stop." He has another still in a '52...Sounds like a road trip this weekend. I'll let y'all know.
Thanks again to all for the help. I'm pulling mine in the morning to take with me, to match up.
Wish me luck,