I'm going to assume that you have a Ford 9" rear end. The Ford 9" is a semi floating rear. To replace the axle seals in these you will need to remove the drums and then remove the four nuts behind where the wheel studs are. There will be a hole where you can access the nuts through. They should use a 3/4" socket. Just rotate the axle around until you get all of them off. Watch that the bolts don't slip out from behind the backing plate. Once this is done just pull the axle shaft out. The bearing is pressed on and will have to be pressed off if you want or need to replace that. The seal should just slide off and slide back on. To reinstall the shaft just slide it back in. You might have to turn it side to side a little to get the splines to line up. After that just tighten the nuts back up and slide your drum back on. Hope this helps you some.
1978 F-150 flareside. Primitive by todays standards but she was a jaw dropper back then. :-staun
you should fix it as soon as possible, because the oil will contaminate the shoes rendering them useless.also you will have to get a new bearing with the new seal. when you press the bearing off it usually gets ruined.mudder trucker.
I thought you install the oil seals in the housing not on the axle shaft.
Then when you slide the axle back in ,you MAKE SURE you are careful to hold & slide the axle in such a way as to not put weight on the rubber part of the seal to prevent splitting/tearing and having to do it again.
The 1/2 ton has the seal and bearing (semi-together). The seal is outboard of the bearing.
Has anyone ever seen the seal leak immediately after having the bearing and seals replaced.
This happened to me recently and I had to silicone the seal in. I know this is wrong but it worked and i'm on my way.
When doing a seal replacement on my half tons, I have to use a seal puller because the stubborn things get stuck in the axle housing. I also have a set of proper seal installation tools (pretty important, but the right diameter of socket should work)to put the new seal in with. I watch the installation of the axle shaft with that delicate rubber sealing lip. I never touch the bearings unless there seems to be a lot of play. My 78 needs bearings now. There is a noticeable click I hear when at lower speeds.
This is a 9", semi-floating type as well. The Dana is the full floater, and the bearing is in a different place, and not on the axle shaft...
Ford started it; Ford will finish it!
>The 1/2 ton has the seal and bearing (semi-together). The
>seal is outboard of the bearing.
>Has anyone ever seen the seal leak immediately after having
>the bearing and seals replaced.
>This happened to me recently and I had to silicone the seal
>in. I know this is wrong but it worked and i'm on my way.
a friend of mine leaked after his were done and he took it back and they fixed it
This is my problem too. The passenger side of my 77 ford rear axle is leaking. I was pretty sure it is a 3300 lb 9 inch. Anyhow, there is a seal on the axle shaft with the bearing. I had that pressed off and new parts pressed on (only $20, I thought it was cheap) My question is...Is there another oil seal inside the axle housing that needs replaced? I can't see one, not anything that looks like a regular seal anyway. there is a metal "lip" about 3-4 inches inside the housing that's all tore up, but nothing looks like it would slide out unless the whole 3-4 inch section (that the inner bearing race sits against) comes out. Anyone have a clue. I have gotten a mix of answers, but no definites. My last choice is to reinstall the axle shaft and see if it still leaks, but I really want to fix it right so I won't be doing it again in 6 months.
dfisher: In my experience, if the repaired axle seal didn't last long it meant the axle housing was wollered out and letting the outer bearing race bounce around in the housing, ruining the seal. Jack up the rear and try pulling the tire up and down like checking the front for bad ball joints. If you got movement, you got housing trouble. I have successfully peened the inside of the housing with a center punch to raise the metal to snug up the fit on the bearing race before but there's no guarantee that it'll last forever.