I picked up a 1991 EFI DIS 2.3L Roller Mustang engine a couple of weekends ago and I started tearing into it.The 2.3L in my Ranger seems to be getting pretty tired,so I wanted to get something that I could rebuild and re-install.I wanted to stay with a 2.3L because I should be able to just plug n' play.In other words,no electronic mods .

So,here's the deal - I've never rebuilt an EFI engine before.I'm positive that it's the same on the internals,but that all changes once you get to the outside of the engine,(i.e. intake,electronics,etc.).I have rebuilt numerous Ford's in the past and I look forward to this being my first EFI,also my first 4 cylinder.I always had my hands stuck in the insides of those Ford big blocks .

I have numerous links and catalogs from companies that sell performance parts for the 2.3L,including 2.5L Stroker parts.My situation is that I can build the engine and warm the head up enough to breathe in enough air,but now,when I get to the outside,I basically get lost.I don't know when I should buy bigger throttle bodies,MAFS's,etc.I just leave it like it is and if something doesn't work right,I start diagnosing the problem.

Now,my budget.I want a challenge,so here it is.My budget for this build-up,(this means drop in and go),is $1,000.I chuckled at that thought in the beginning,but to build a successful EFI 2.5L Stroker,it's not so funny anymore,especially with $1,000 to spend.I'm not going to rush or order a ton of parts all at one time.I'm going to search out the best deals and shop wisely.I'll probably turn to you guys for some things if you don't mind .

Like I said,I have 0% experience with EFI engines.So,this will also add to my challenge.I know that some of your are laughing at this point and want to know why on God's Green Earth that I don't drop in a small block,but I have a simple reply to that question..Convenience.Also,reliabily,fuel ecomomy,etc.What I want is the 2.3L,not a 5.0L,even though I do have 3 donor vehicles in my vicinity with small block Ford's under the hood,my reply is still simply no.

I'll admit it,I'm going to need the help.Possibly alot of it.I'm hoping that you guys will fill me in on what you know and what you have done in the past.This is something new to me,and I get chills running up and down my spine when I think about it.This is going to be fun.Like I said,there's no rush.I'm searching out the best deals,taking my time.I would say that this project would be concluded by the end of this year.

As said before,at this point,I have a bare 2.3L block.I think that it's a .030 bore,but I'm not for sure.If not,it will be by the time that this project is completed.

Here's some ideas that I've been jotting down -

~ 5.5" Crower Rods w/ Forged Wiseco 8:1 .030 Flattops (Complete Rotating Assembly Will Be Balanced)
~ 2300 Stroker-Ground Crank (2500 Stroke)
~ 8-Plug Head Polish/Port - Intake Match - Long-Tube Header - Oversize Valves - 1.83" Intake/1.59" Exhaust
~ Comp Cams 260H Roller Cam Kit
~ Large-Bore MAF
~ 60mm Throttle Body
~ MSD DIS Ignition Module
~ Crank Windage Tray
~ M5OD-HD 5 Speed Trans (Any Other Good Transmissions That Can Be Bolted To The 2.3L And Are Stronger Than The M5OD?)
~ KKM Custom Air Intake (Possibly Cold Air If It's Available)
~ Diablo Chip for EEC-IV
~ Flowmaster 40 Series Dual-Outlet Muffler w/ Magnaflow High-Flow Cat (2.25" Pipe)

I think that's all for the list for now lol.Buying all of those parts,one-by-one,from the catalogs is already Wayyy over my $1,000 budget.I'll have to search the pick n' pulls and eBay for great deals.I could also get a MAF off of another Ford vehicle,such as a 3.8L T-Bird engine.That would open it up a bit .

Probably nothing else will be done to the Ranger until this engine is completed.I put on new tires today and I will probably put a Traction-Loc 4.10 in the rear,but other than that,nothing more than regular maintenance.

Thanks for any input or advice.I look forward to hearing some of your comments and ideas .I need all of it that I can get.

BTW,I don't expect this engine to run with 5.0L Ranger's.I just want something that has a nice power range and can get me from A-to-B,quickly or not.Speed really doesn't matter .

Nightrain

 

Ever hear of the "KISS" theory? Keep It Simple S-----.
Do what is necessary to the long block including checking that the deck is flat. Do that to perfection & re-install all the stock external parts to make it run.
After you do enough break in time, then you can add the goodie parts.

 

Yeah,I've heard that theory quite a few times lol...

So,are you suggesting a stock 2.3L rebuild or build the 2.5L Stroker,stick with the factory externals,and then start putting on the new parts that are needed?

Nightrain

 

How fast do you want to go???
Adding goddie parts to the stroker later on will make you happy all over again!
Like they say at the track..."Go Big Or Go Home".
Do the stroker now, use the stock externals, and save up for the rest of the parts while you are breaking in the rebuild.

 

Gotcha.

Thanks for the tip.I'll not really looking for speed.I'm looking for torque.Well,maybe a little speed every now and then ...

Nightrain

 

I was flipping through some cats today,and I have the idea that I now might want to go turbo lol.I've seen some nicely-done 2.3L Turbos and I wouldn't mind having one myself.I have looked at some turbo blocks and it seems that my Mustang 2.3L block has the same oil return hole in the side of it that the turbo block does .Could Ford have just used the blocks for all of their 4 cylinders?I know that the 2.3L block hasn't changed since the late 70's until it went to the 2.5L Duratech.Heck,even the DIS models have the hole,retainer,and the driveshaft for a distributor lol.The turbo would probably have to be a custom job though because where I would want to mount it,the DIS modules are in the way .Oh well,I could always check around and try something else.I think that a turbo would be bad,especially if it's built for it .

I think that if I go the turbo route,I'll move my budget up to $2,000.That's going to be a challenge all in itself right there.But for now,I'm sticking with the original idea.I'll let you guys know if I change my mind.

Anyone that has a Turbo 2.3L,share some stories.I have never owned a turbo engine and I think that it would be something fun to do .

Thanks guys.

Nightrain

 

That sounds all fine and well, but you really should set down a plan and stick to it. Plan the work-work the plan.
If it's torque more than speed that you are looking for, then maybe you'd be better off putting a supercharger on it.

 

I thought about that too,but I've never seen any supercharger kits for the 2.3L.All that I've seen were turbos.Could another charger be fabbed to work for the 2.3L without a ton of trouble?If so,that might just be the way that I go.I think that a supercharger would be less clutter than the turbo because if I went turb'd,I'd have to add the intercooler and all of that piping running every which way under the hood.That looks cool,but it's alot of work,especially if the engine has to ever come out.If a supercharger can work and work efficiently,that'll be that way that I go .

Don't worry,after I get my plan worked out,the bottom end of the engine will stay the same.If a bug comes up in my system along the way,which I hope doesn't happen,I can change the external goodies.That's one good thing about having fuel injection.I'm trying to ask all the questions that I can though so that doesn't happen .

Nightrain

 

i had a '88 2.3 2wd 5-spd w 3.73 supercab, i bought it with 98,000 miles. at 145,000 i pulled the motor for a rebuild, went .030 on cylinder bore, new bearings, valve job, resurfaced flywheel , new clutch/pressureplate , new oil pump, brass freeze plugs. basiclly a stock rebuild. i did use fuel injectors from a '91 302, and i got rid of the egr valve and the catalitic converter. motor performed well for a four-cylinder and got milage in the low to mid 20s, only bad thing was two years after the rebuild one of the clutch hub releif springs broke and a peice wedged between the clutch disc and pressure plate. i traded in "old blue" at 203,000 for a bigger truck (3/4 ton) the dealership thought it was only 103,000. its still running, has about 250,000 on it now, i would recommend a mild cam on a stock rebuild.

 

Yeah,I know what you mean.I think that the 2.3L that's in my truck now is just really getting tired.It doesn't have the get-up-and-go that it should have,or maybe I'm expecting too much from a 4-cylinder.I think that a souped-up model would really move it along though .

Nightrain

 

Well,I think the build-up is fixing to begin.I'm calling the machine shop Monday to setup an appointment with them to clean and check the block.If it's not already,I'll have them bore it .030 over.If it's already .030 and needs cleaning up,I'll have them take it up to .040.I'm going to tear the head down next week also.I'll take it to the shop at the same time as the block.

I don't know about the Cheater Valves anymore.They're .100" longer than stock and you have to use a Racer Walsh cam with it,and they only make the mechanical flat-tappets.I want to stay with the factory roller system.I think that a port/polish,bowl bend,and a 3-angle job will be good enough for the head.Plus,port/polish the intake and do the intake match will really help also .

Just thought that I'd give ya'll the update.If ya'll spot any good deals on the net,let me know.It's time to start spending money .I'll post pics as I go along.

Wish me luck.

Nightrain

 

Nightrain, I thought RW had cheater valves in the regular length as well? You only need the longer valves if you go with a cam with valve lifts greater than .5". If you stick with RW's #1R or #2R, you should still be able to use the stock length valves. Call them and confirm that.